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I need some serious ball joint help

Chevy305

Chevy305

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So since I blew the front driverside ujoint I started taking the hub apart to replace the ujoint and find out that not only are my wheel bearings bad, but my ball joints are shot as well as the spindle bearing was NON-exhistant and the seal was toast. So basically every wearable part in the driverside knuckle has to be replaced. The passengerside is good since i replaced the wheel bearings 2 months ago.

So right now I have hit 2 road blocks. I cannot remove the knuckle from axel. And I can't remove the bearing out of the spindle. Here's some pics to show you where i'm at:

Balljoints003.jpg


Knuckle is torn down, all nuts removed and the snap ring on the lower ball joint is out. I have been wailing on the upper ball joint with a 10 lb sledge and haven't gotten any where. Plus boat loads of PB Blaster.

Balljoints004.jpg


So what's the story with the adjusting sleave? Does it have to come out to remove the ball joints? And where do i get the special wrench to turn it, NO ONE has it locally?

Balljoints009.jpg


Balljoints005.jpg


Lower ball joint

Balljoints010.jpg



Spindle bearing:

Balljoints001.jpg


Balljoints002.jpg



Ujoint:

ujoint1.jpg


ujoint2.jpg


Balljoints007.jpg


Balljoints008.jpg





Also one more question, what is this joint called and what do I need to do to replace it?

Balljoints006.jpg
 
You're going to need to cut the damaged threads off of both ball joint studs very first thing. Now you need to be hitting in the area with the red circle with a large ball peen hammer in order to get the ball joints to come out of the C of the axle.

Balljoints005.jpg

Balljoints009.jpg
 
Get yourself a pickle fork, it goes in between the axle housing and the knuckle. Hit it a few times with the hammer and the knuckle falls off. Should be able to get one localy, maybe even rent it from Autozone. IIRC the steering arm needs to come off to get the upper joint out. The knuckle can be removed with it still on though. It'll probably be easier to get it off with it still attached to the axle though.

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-41500-Pickle-Fork-Kit/dp/B0002SRG4S

The joint you have pictured is part of the drag link. Basicly loosen the clamp on the adjusting sleeve and unthread it. It may be left hand thread...so watch out for that. When unscrewing it, count how many turns it takes to get it off. Then screw the new one in that many, should get you close to where it needs to be. To check if it's bad, hook it to the steering arm and wiggle the knuckle/arm looking for movement. Looks like the zerk is broke off and the boot is torn...probably needs to be replaced.
 
The reason for hitting in this area is to "break" the taper loose so that you can remove the knuckle from the axle. Once the knuckle is off then you can remove the ball joints. The spanner adjustment is for pre loading the upper ball joint when you go to put this back together again. Don't trust that the adjustment is correct either. Find the socket for this and torque it to the proper spec.
 
Your going to need a pickle fork wedge tool w/ a bf hammer and use it on the lower balljoint, The adjuster comes out last and no pressure will be on it so a skrewdriver and hammer will get it out.
 
Your last picture is the drag link end, you should be able to get a new one, count the turns as you remove it, then thread the new one back in.

And follow Scott's advice on the ball joints, I haven't gotten around to doing mine yet.:doah:
 
toomany is correct about a pickle fork although i never use one as i do it the way i described since pickle forks tend to tear the boots (in this case doesn't matter since you're going to be replacing anyways).
 
yes, the adjusting sleeve must come out before the ball joint can. you can order the spanner wrench for this through napa - some rediculous amount of money, like $28 or so for a damn socket. or, you can take an old (3/8?) socket and grind it down and make your own. make sure to use a deep socket. ;)

**edit. someone else above said this isn't necessary. didn't know that. i've always removed it first. ;)
 
4x4High beat me to it. I forgot about hitting the C with the hammer. I've still needed the presure from the fork to pop it loose though.

Edit: Wow, when I posted this one there was only two replys. This one is #9...you guys are fast!
 
toomany said:
Get yourself a pickle fork, it goes in between the axle housing and the knuckle. Hit it a few times with the hammer and the knuckle falls off. Should be able to get one localy, maybe even rent it from Autozone. IIRC the steering arm needs to come off to get the upper joint out. The knuckle can be removed with it still on though. It'll probably be easier to get it off with it still attached to the axle though.

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-41500-Pickle-Fork-Kit/dp/B0002SRG4S

The joint you have pictured is part of the drag link. Basicly loosen the clamp on the adjusting sleeve and unthread it. It may be left hand thread...so watch out for that. When unscrewing it, count how many turns it takes to get it off. Then screw the new one in that many, should get you close to where it needs to be. To check if it's bad, hook it to the steering arm and wiggle the knuckle/arm looking for movement. Looks like the zerk is broke off and the boot is torn...probably needs to be replaced.
Click to expand...

I have a pickle fork. I have completely mushroomed the end of it trying to get somewhere with it.

4X4HIGH said:
The reason for hitting in this area is to "break" the taper loose so that you can remove the knuckle from the axle. Once the knuckle is off then you can remove the ball joints. The spanner adjustment is for pre loading the upper ball joint when you go to put this back together again. Don't trust that the adjustment is correct either. Find the socket for this and torque it to the proper spec.
Click to expand...

Some say that it has to come out and some dont so i don't know. I was going to devote all tomorrow to this but if i need this socket thing its going to take longer.

4X4HIGH said:
This is the socket you need for the spanner nut. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1630&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

33253.JPG
Click to expand...
 
The spanner nut DOES NOT need to be removed to get the knuckle off. The ball joints will drop out of the bottom of the C and out of that spanner nut. Most people don't even adjust it, they just swap in new ball joints and tighten the nuts on the ball joints (not properly done unless the upper ball joint gets pre loaded properly).
 
Man talk about dejavu! I was in the same boat a couple of months ago... I know it seems like there's no way it'll come off but trust me, eventually it will.
Just keep working with the pickle fork and a decent size sledge (I think I was using a 5lbs sledge or so) and eventually you'll get just the right hit. Mine never really "loosened" or started to come they just popped out in a single hit...
It took a good hour and a half or so to get my driver's side knuckle off.

As people have been saying it'll come out without taking the adjuster sleeve out... I took it out because I wasn't sure but ended up putting it back in because the upper ball joint flops around without it so just leave it in.


Good luck and keep at it!
 
When I did my ball joints my spindle bearings were junk too. I couldnt get them out, I finally used a dremel and slowly cut through them, then folded it in on itself and got it out that way. Worked pretty good, only took a few mins per bearings, after I had beat on them for an hr or so. :mad:
 
Pickle fork on an air chisel gun --10 seconds...

I have seen more people wail on steering parts and spring bushings with a sledge hammer and get nowhere....

air hammer does the trick every time......:bow::bow:
 
I think the haynes manual I have says to remove the lower balljoint first. They have a diagram of a small press you can make out of a long bolt, nut and some washers. You might try that on the lower if you haven't got it already.

A balljoint press is a nice investment for the top one, but it may come loose easier if the lower one it out.
 
wasted wages said:
Pickle fork on an air chisel gun --10 seconds...

I have seen more people wail on steering parts and spring bushings with a sledge hammer and get nowhere....

air hammer does the trick every time......:bow::bow:
Click to expand...

I couldn't find a big enough one locally to fit my air chisel :rolleyes:

bp71k5 said:
I think the haynes manual I have says to remove the lower balljoint first. They have a diagram of a small press you can make out of a long bolt, nut and some washers. You might try that on the lower if you haven't got it already.

A balljoint press is a nice investment for the top one, but it may come loose easier if the lower one it out.
Click to expand...

I tried the thing with the bolt and washers, and I ended up completely rounding the nut with a 3' pipe on the end of my wrench... :mad: I was using a 1/2" bolt too.

This has to be at least as fustrating as my clutch was :mad::mad::angry1:
 
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