I still hate ball joints

[ccarley]

I tore into the front axle today, in an attempt to replace the ball joints on the passenger side. It didn't go very well.

I tore the whole thing down, I was very surprised at how easily the spindle came off, however it looked like it had been off before. The axle had some paint marks on it like it came from a junkyard (pick & pull or whatever). No surprise there...

After removing the nuts on the ball joints, I was tap tap tapping away trying to get the knuckle off the axle. No dice. Now, the biggest hammer I was using was only a 4 lb sledge... nothing budged. My manual says "check section 4", and looking at "section 4" there is nothing about removing the ball joints!

Now, on the upper joint, do I need to loosen the sleeve before removing? The new ones have sleeves with them. Looking at the setup, I am guessing there is no camber adjustment there either.

I might have some pics up tonight.

Clay

 

[Blazinaire]

It's been a while since I've done a set on the K5 (just did my dodge last week but not really similar).... I'm pretty sure you will have to remove the sleeve or at least back it off before installing the new BJ's, so it sure wouldn't hurt to do it now. The standard preload sleeve does not allow for any camber adjustment, but aftermarket eccentric sleeves allowing 1.5-2* are available if needed (I cheat and use theese sleeves to gain caster when rolling the pinion up )

When using a hammer, be sure that you are striking perpindicular to the axis of the BJ shaft (swing sideways) and not trying to hit downwards, this approach has gotten many rusted steering arms/TRE's/knuckles off in a matter of seconds. Don't be afraid to beat it like a hooker that stole your wallet, but if it doesn't come off in a few swings, you may need to re-evaluate.

 

[4X4HIGH]

The easiest way to get the knuckle off is with both ball joint nuts loose (you can remove the lower completely but leave the upper on a few threads) give a few good whacks on the inner C where the ball joints go through (ball pein hammer works best) and that will relief the tension on the ball joint tapers and the knuckle will fall off (upper nut will hold it from falling onto your foot).

Forgot to add, you'll need a special spanner socket for adjusting the upper ball joint preload with that sleeve. You can get the spanner socket from just about any good parts store such as Napa.

Here is the one I have from Snap-on. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1630&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

 

[thatK30guy]

I have that exact same socket shown above.

I've seen and heard too many people don't know about that top adjusting nut. Heard of them beating the hell out of the knuckle and ball joints leading to them being destroyed when all they needed to do was remove that nut.

Take heed fellow knuckle/ball joint rebuilders: that nut needs to come out before you can do anything else. Doing so will make your life easier and have less headaches.

 

[4X4HIGH]

I have that exact same socket shown above.

I've seen and heard too many people don't know about that top adjusting nut. Heard of them beating the hell out of the knuckle and ball joints leading to them being destroyed when all they needed to do was remove that nut.

Take heed fellow knuckle/ball joint rebuilders: that nut DOES NOT need to come out.

Fixed it for you Wes. That "nut" (if you're refering to the preload sleeve) DOES NOT need to come out in order to remove the knuckle BUT you should always check that the proper amount of preload is present before reassembling the axle.

 

[thatK30guy]

Sorry to say but from past experience, I've changed out numerous nuts and its mucho easier to get the knuckle out with the nut removed, too.

I stand by my uncorrected statement from your post.

That nut needs to be removed regardless, to make your life easier on this chore. After the new ball joints are in, its still got to be adjusted to specs. Just makes things so much easier with it out of the way first.

 

[4X4HIGH]

Sorry to say but from past experience, I've changed out numerous nuts and its mucho easier to get the knuckle out with the nut removed, too.

I stand by my uncorrected statement from your post.

That nut needs to be removed regardless. After the new ball joints are in, its still got to be adjusted to specs. Just makes things so much easier with it out of the way first.

That is 200% INCORRECT INFO.

I do agree that the adjustment needs to be made but in no way does that sleeve have to be removed or even replaced (unless it is damaged).

 

[thatK30guy]

I've never been able to remove a knuckle with the nut still in place. Only when I removed the nut then the knuckle was able to come out freely. Hence my reason for stating that it needs to be removed to make your life easier.

 

[4X4HIGH]

I've never been able to remove a knuckle with the nut still in place. Only when I removed the nut then the knuckle was able to come out freely. Hence my reason for stating that it needs to be removed to make your life easier.

Just because YOU can't remove the knuckle with the sleeve in place doesn't mean the sleeve NEEDS to come out.

One reason why YOU might have trouble getting the knuckle off without removing the sleeve is because you possibly haven't relieved the tension from the taper of the sleeve.

 

[thatK30guy]

Whoa! Not picking a war with my buddy but rather simply trying to make this job easier (reread that word again) for anyone who attempts to do so. Its just so much easier to remove everything with this nut out of the way.

Thats all I'm trying to get across here.

 

[4X4HIGH]

Whoa! Not picking a war with my buddy but rather simply trying to make this job easier (reread that word again) for anyone who attempts to do so. Its just so much easier to remove everything with this nut out of the way.

Thats all I'm trying to get across here.

I have that exact same socket shown above.

I've seen and heard too many people don't know about that top adjusting nut. Heard of them beating the hell out of the knuckle and ball joints leading to them being destroyed when all they needed to do was remove that nut.

Take heed fellow knuckle/ball joint rebuilders: that nut needs to come out before you can do anything else.

You are the one that made THIS ^ statement, not me. Maybe you should edit your post to read "it is EASIER if the "nut" gets removed first".

I know i've probably made a mistake with some info in the past and i've manned up to it but this one I know FOR FACT.

 

[thatK30guy]

You are the one that made THIS ^ statement, not me. Maybe you should edit your post to read "it is EASIER if the "nut" gets removed first".

Admitted it, did it, done it.

 

[4X4HIGH]

Admitted it, did it, done it.

Now that's better Wes.

 

[thatK30guy]

Now that's better Wes.

I aim to please.

 

[4X4HIGH]

I aim to please.

Well......I won't say anything if you don't.

 

[diesel4me]

I've done half a dozen trucks ball joints and only once did I attempt to replace the tapered threaded sleeve thing,and I regretted ever touching it!..
I use TWO ball joint forks,one under each ball joint so both get some tention on them,it makes it easier to break the tapered pins free,using only one under the lower ball joint will work,but you'll need a BIG hammer to reak both loose at once!..

The time I decided to replace the threaded sleeve,I lacked the proper socket,so I tried making one from 3/4" pipe,that worked to get one out,then it broke--then I used an old 11/16" socket to make another..the threads in the C yoke are SOFT and easily boogered ,so beware if you go messing with them!..I'm not planning on ever replacing one again unless its an absolute must..mine were rusty as hell and I was lucky to get them out and the threads didn't strip when I put the new ones in--and the threads aren't a typical "standard" thread you can buy a tap for,to chase them too..good reason to let them be!..

 

[496truck]

I just went through this recently. Rehabbing a front 10b to swap into my truck.

Soak with rust penetrant, I like PB blaster.
Remove lower BJ nut.
A few good whacks with a big hammer on the inner C upper and lower.
Thread the upper BJ nut on by hand most of the way onto the stud.
Don't leave any exposed threads.
Hit the BJ stud/nut directly on the top (you are replacing it anyways) it should drop right down. Heck, I didn't even thread the nut back on, just hit the stud directly cause I was replacing it.
Unthread the nut and remove knuckle.
Then you can remove the upper BJ sleeve, mine wouldn't budge with the upper BJ still in it

 

[ccarley]

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-ball-joint-u-joint-c-frame-press-service-kit-38335.html

I think I got this on sale sometime for like $27.
Works well for u-joints, too.

Just because one can do everything with a bigger hammer doesn't necessarily mean one should. And I don't get it why people seem to be so deathly afraid of the threaded sleeve.

I have that exact kit! bought it a few years ago to help with U-joint replacement (works great for that by the way).

The beginning:

took a while to get the retaining ring out to get the hub body off:

Soaking the spindle nuts. Those suckers were tight!

This is as far as I got:

Well, I did have the nuts removed of course. I did a bunch of tapping on the sides of the outer C on the axle, but nothing seemed to budge (sideways tapping, like what was recommended). The Haynes manual I have says not to touch the adjuster sleeve unless replacing the upper ball joint, but looking at it, I think I should pick up that special tool & loosen that guy a little to get the knuckle off.

I feel a little better though, the ball joint "isn't that bad". I found a bad vacuum line as well, topped off the oil & power steering fluid, and replaced the belt. With the "severe duty" fan clutch I got, and the wet weather, the belt has been squealing on startup & when the thermostat opens LOL.

I'm trying to get my coolant to the right mixture of antifreeze & water, before we head to the snow. My handy Prestone gauge measures the coolant protecting to -7 right now, so hopefully I can get some more antifreeze in there today.

Thanks for the suggestions! Ball joints suck. Hopefully this will be the only time I have to do them.

Clay

 

[chulisohombre]

just hammer on the top ball joint castle nut til it pops.maybe try a pry bar in between the knuckle and inner c for pressure and then wack it a few times.i got a pry bar i had my buddy put pressure and smacked it a few times with a hammer.i dint replace the inner sleeves either and didnt take them out.i tryed to make them move but 40 years had them rusted in pretty tough so i left them.

 

[k30bb468]

I have that exact kit! bought it a few years ago to help with U-joint replacement (works great for that by the way).


If you have the balljoint press use it to remove the ball joints from the axle ????

& as far as the preload sleeve I have done a gazillion balljoints & have only ever had to replace one of those & that was because someone else had been in there before &
messed it up.
Now I run a Dana 60 , no more balljoints for my ride

Again use the balljoint press , that's what it is made for