CK5
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I think I need MSD Philly87's help.(Rusty dist)

Is your PVC system set up as I last described?

No:whistle: I have PCV on one side but a breather going to a dump canister on the other due to the fact I don't have an enclosed air filter housing.

Phil I have the dizy out now (Just orderded some new springs&bushings, mag pick-up, o-rings) I looked for that number and did not see anything stamped on the aluminum except V8. It's a 85551 but I know that's not the number your lookin for.

On the plus side I got 18 months this time so it would seem that having the hood on does help.

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Pretty sure that using dielectric grease on terminals that WILL spark (such as the rotor/cap contacts) will cause the grease to turn into a mess. Those contacts should be fine without massive amounts of cleaning.

Obviously you have a one-off problem, I don't see modifying something that works fine for 99% of the vehicles out there as the solution. Only reason that I know of that the PCV breather was not sourced from the engine bay was solely so the air it was ingesting was clean, coming from "behind" the air filter. Flow pattern is simply vacuum from manifold pulls valve open, source for fresh air if needed is from the breather side. For this problem I don't see an open breather being an issue?

My truck might get driven once a month (maybe once every two months) and while the aluminum intake and such gets that white powdery corrosion on it, the ignition has never been an issue.
 
Maybe this is a REALLY stupid thought, wouldn't be the first nor last time, but does the air gap "exit" right in front of the distributor? It certainly seems pretty unlikely, but a flex fan with a "tunnel" through the intake, perhaps it keeps the distributor cooler than it would normally?

Anyone that has dealt with heatsinks knows how effective air over AL is at removing heat, with the distributor housing being AL and air flowing over it from a fan that never stops, maybe?

I'm assuming a flex fan because it's obviously not a stock blade, but...
 
Once he fixes the PCV system and is sure the engine doesn't have excessive blow-by his issue will be gone.
 
I'm still going with ozone. If you had enough moisture in there to do that much damage, it ought not to even run.
I mean, you could spray salt water in there and it would not corrode it that bad.

Ozone is produced whenever there is a spark, so its making some every time a plug fires.
The question is, why is it building up in there? And not in other dizzys. Your mention of the center electrode wearing away, sounds like its arcing there more than normal, but you have replaced the cap and rotor, so anything incorrect should have been resolved.

If all else fails, I suppose you could actively vent it. Two small holes with fittings on opposite sides of it.
One hooked to a vacuum source, and the other with a filter on the end.
Fresh air would be drawn in through the filter by the vacuum, flushing out any ozone or moisture.
 
Once he fixes the PCV system and is sure the engine doesn't have excessive blow-by his issue will be gone.

Isn't all PCV "in" from atmosphere? I'm not following the logic on questioning PCV setup...whether it is filtered at the valve cover or through the air cleaner, isn't it still the same air?
 
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