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i wanted to cry yesterday...

MNorby said:
don't worry, been there done that. My box ripped off and spun around and took out the radiator and all. the front of my frame drooped down. Spend 8 hours getting it straghtened and aligned back to normal then welding, grinding then weld on brace AND bolt on brace. Never a prob since.
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Mine did the same thing. freaky thing is the holes look almost exactly the same. right down to the individual shapes.
 
You can fix it... as long as your very careful ... don't even try to weld it if it's not dead nuts nats' ass perfect, take your time and do it right. We had one of our old work trucks do damn near the same thing and we welded it up(benefit of workin in a fab shop) and the thing tracked straight as an arrow and never had any drivability problems. Definetly use the brace... I don't know how it works or what it even looks like but I would take some heavy flatbar like 5/8 or 3/4 and clamp 2 pieces of flatbar on the inside and outside of the frame as tight as you can get it and it should be straight then weld in the proper braces.


You definetly need to brace up the steering box with bigger tires and or a lift... lot of people forget or neglect to do this and end up in your situation. What size tires are you running?
 
i only have 33's but this truck has been jumped by the PO...and i have gotten the front off the ground having to go to fast through my creek because it was really muddy and if i slid back i would hit treees.:crazy: but it didnt get high or anything:rolleyes:....
 
i was just wondering... do trucks that see mostly road use but still have big tires tend to have this same problem? my brother has a suburban with 39.5's that hardly ever does anything but street driving and i was wondering if this is something to worry about:confused:
 
Yeah, happens to street driven trucks too. Because the frame isn't triangulated really well up front ever time you turn the wheels there are stresses put on the frame that cause it to flex a little. Over time the metal fatigues, and then begins to crack. Bigger tires put more load on the frame...

Rene
 
blazeonchevy said:
i was just wondering... do trucks that see mostly road use but still have big tires tend to have this same problem? my brother has a suburban with 39.5's that hardly ever does anything but street driving and i was wondering if this is something to worry about:confused:
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even on a street truck he will love the breace kits fell . scale of 1-10 i give it a 8 on best bang for the buck.
 
heck, 2 months after I bought my truck I got rear ended. Bent the frame above the rear end bad. Cut it in the middle of the front spring hanger for the rear end in the middle of the crossmember and all and spliced in a from from another truck. Daily drove it for 4 or 5 year and still 4Xing it like that today, never a problem.
 
beastofablaze said:
You can fix it... as long as your very careful ... don't even try to weld it if it's not dead nuts nats' ass perfect, take your time and do it right. We had one of our old work trucks do damn near the same thing and we welded it up(benefit of workin in a fab shop) and the thing tracked straight as an arrow and never had any drivability problems. Definetly use the brace... I don't know how it works or what it even looks like but I would take some heavy flatbar like 5/8 or 3/4 and clamp 2 pieces of flatbar on the inside and outside of the frame as tight as you can get it and it should be straight then weld in the proper braces.


You definetly need to brace up the steering box with bigger tires and or a lift... lot of people forget or neglect to do this and end up in your situation. What size tires are you running?
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very good advice here by beastofablaze, the thick plate steel will keep it straight for sure, just make sure it covers as much area/length as possible/necessary. you have a crossmember inside which makes it difficult to get a good chunk of steel in there to help straighten it out but do what you can.

I would not use the weld on patch kit, they suck, you could probably do a better patch of your own design. absolutly use a steering brace when your done.

LEARN FROM OTHERS MISTAKES!!! dont punch stuff. if you have to hit something take a hammer and pound a piece of wood to hell and back. dont hit the concrete cause it will chip and hit you and sting like hell, I know. I broke my hand in 2 places from punching a wood cabinet. never went to the hospital to have it set. it healed crooked and my pinky finger does not close right, I dont have a 4th nuckle. its all pushed back. did this 20 years ago.

you learn from mistakes. just dont learn the hard way by not heeding good advice. being smart is knowing when you recieve good advice and doing the right thing with it. that makes you wise. good luck.
 
Also If you can use dual shield (flux core wire with gas) then that is your best option... It will penetrate deeper and be a harder weld then hardwire. I don't know how well your fabrication skills are but uphill is the strongest weld you can lay down. If you can weld dual shield uphill then do it. If you don't have access to a dual shield machine then weld it uphill with hardwire and make your ocelations wide.
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What ever you do don't weld any part of that downhill... I've seen tape stick better than downhill welds...

good luck man
 
my frame has a minor issue, not like this guys, but i plan to just plate the whole frame, reinforce it because once the 2wd box goes on, a ton of stress

anyone have any pics of steering box bracing( custom..)
 
well after all the time the blazer just sat there i worked on it some yesterday and today. took off the box and realized that it wasnt going to be so easy to make bracing to weld in.. so i just ordered the ord weld in brace. i think the plan is to get it straight. clean it. weld the frame together. grind it smooth. then weld the braces on. ill keep posting as i go along with pics and whatnot. even though this has been done to death. thanks for all yalls advice so far.
-sam-
 
with the frame blown out that bad. i would have got the bolt in brace also to help take away the stress on the repaired frame.
 
ill get that once i get a little more money. im trying to keep a cushion.. where i can buy little stuff and still have some money for emergencies. and because i have another vehicle to drive while im fixing this im not as worried. ill get one soon though.
 
so your frame is not an emergency right now?

i would not drive it without a brace AND the plate you bought after the damage it has now..

but its only your steering, do what you want:D :doah:
 
its not an emergency because i dont have to drive it. i have another car to drive around until this one is fixed....and that car has a/c..
 
What everybody else said. Strip it down, V grind it, weld the frame, weld in an ORD brace, install an ORD cross brace, and you are ready to roll. Most any decent welder will have a good MIG welder they can bring on over to your house too.
 
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