yeah the one with square hole and stove bolts that's how I did the 01
CK5
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Ideas for K5 trailer hitch mounting/improvement
- Thread starter dyeager535
- Start date
I don't see how a generalization like that applies here. The tabs are already separated. With some grinding to taper and welding on both sides of the crack, that area will probably be stronger than the original. Now add some gussets and that bending stress shouldn't be an issue again.
Are the gussets from the side plates to the main tube really needed? If there was bending there, it's likely the side plates and not the tube, so those triangles need more "height" than they do "width", or even just some small tube or angle to stiffen the side plates.
Because this is basic material science. The weld material is stronger than the base material but the transition from base material to weld material is called the heat affected zone (HAZ). That area of the base material is weaker than the original base material. Because this joint will have an area in both sides of the weld that are 100% HAZ, that area will be where it breaks the next time.
Without adding gussets, this would fail much faster than last time. Getting two gussets, one on each side of the bolt hole may make it last much longer with load sharing around the weak weld repair but it's not as good as original metal without repair and adding the gussets.
Keep in mind we already know which area of the (original) part is under the most stress and now the HAZ is outside of that (although maybe close enough to still be a problem). Part of the repair should be a bead along both edges of the material, around that bend, which strengthens the area of stress against cracks starting. The root cause was probably loose fasteners anyway.
I wasn't saying gussets shouldn't be added. Technically where they end creates new stress risers, but they will be outside the area of main concern.
I wasn't saying gussets shouldn't be added. Technically where they end creates new stress risers, but they will be outside the area of main concern.
I would imagine that has a lot to do with it, the time and effort to repair that old hitch is neither worth it or safe. Buy a new hitch, don’t remove any mounting points and be done.
So post-mortem:
No evidence the bolts were loose. No wallowing/wear of the frame/hitch holes, no damage to the bolt threads that passed through.
As far as I can tell the frame has been bent. I can find no pictures online I can verify are of a K5 hitch, even on the new ones being sold (lots of images, but I suspect they are just representative). I'm *certain* two of the mounting tabs are supposed to be angled. Obviously with this one being bent downward from the failure if the forward mounts were supposed to be angled, they aren't, at least properly. They weren't bent evenly.
Frame at the drivers rear is cracked. That bolt hole has almost no material around it, and the crack is from the bolt hole to the end of the frame.
I didn't have a bunch of time to measure, but it looks like the vertical plates are slightly bent to one side. If I can get more time I may put a straightedge on them to see if what I see is reality and not my eyes playing tricks. The hitch will fairly often take a very sharp/heavy load as the hitch sometimes smacks or drags over water bars/thank-you-ma'ams, I hadn't considered that abuse before.
I have a spare frame around, there is a lot of variation in them. Hitch bolt holes line up, but that's about it.
I did make the plates to go inside the frame, but I don't think the rear portion will do much. The riveted in gas tank support necessitates removing almost all metal except where a nut/bolt head would contact. Unfortunately, without disassembling the bumper supports/body mounts, it's not possible to get bolts welded in as studs. Nuts on a plate are all that will fit without removing the bumper support/body mount plate, and based on their condition that would have been a lot more work. But that *really* needs to be the solution. Even with a plate up there, it moves around trying to get the bolts started. Holding the hitch in place trying to line three bolt holes up for each bolt is a pain. Next time however, removal at least will be easy.
I have a spare frame stripped down already, when I do this again the inside-frame plates will be made with bolts. Given the condition of this frame and hitch, a new hitch will definitely need to be the starting point. But I got this one put back together good enough to do what I needed it to do at the time.
Only got a couple of pics once I took it off. Looks like the specs are Class I if my cursory internet search was correct? Doesn't look like Valley makes hitches anymore.
No evidence the bolts were loose. No wallowing/wear of the frame/hitch holes, no damage to the bolt threads that passed through.
As far as I can tell the frame has been bent. I can find no pictures online I can verify are of a K5 hitch, even on the new ones being sold (lots of images, but I suspect they are just representative). I'm *certain* two of the mounting tabs are supposed to be angled. Obviously with this one being bent downward from the failure if the forward mounts were supposed to be angled, they aren't, at least properly. They weren't bent evenly.
Frame at the drivers rear is cracked. That bolt hole has almost no material around it, and the crack is from the bolt hole to the end of the frame.
I didn't have a bunch of time to measure, but it looks like the vertical plates are slightly bent to one side. If I can get more time I may put a straightedge on them to see if what I see is reality and not my eyes playing tricks. The hitch will fairly often take a very sharp/heavy load as the hitch sometimes smacks or drags over water bars/thank-you-ma'ams, I hadn't considered that abuse before.
I have a spare frame around, there is a lot of variation in them. Hitch bolt holes line up, but that's about it.
I did make the plates to go inside the frame, but I don't think the rear portion will do much. The riveted in gas tank support necessitates removing almost all metal except where a nut/bolt head would contact. Unfortunately, without disassembling the bumper supports/body mounts, it's not possible to get bolts welded in as studs. Nuts on a plate are all that will fit without removing the bumper support/body mount plate, and based on their condition that would have been a lot more work. But that *really* needs to be the solution. Even with a plate up there, it moves around trying to get the bolts started. Holding the hitch in place trying to line three bolt holes up for each bolt is a pain. Next time however, removal at least will be easy.
I have a spare frame stripped down already, when I do this again the inside-frame plates will be made with bolts. Given the condition of this frame and hitch, a new hitch will definitely need to be the starting point. But I got this one put back together good enough to do what I needed it to do at the time.
Only got a couple of pics once I took it off. Looks like the specs are Class I if my cursory internet search was correct? Doesn't look like Valley makes hitches anymore.
My squares all came with hitches bolted with regular bolts and nuts.When I installed my hitch I just used some washers. I guess I should be using these block plates instead.
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My 99 van had the square washers with square holes and the bolts were carriage bolts so no need for a wrench inside the frame
The Draw-tite hitch I put on the 01 came that same hardware 1/4" thick rectangle washers with square hole and carriage bolts.
I was looking for a class V hitch, but settled for a class 4? HD
There only seems to be class 3 available for K5
I was looking for a class V hitch, but settled for a class 4? HD
There only seems to be class 3 available for K5
Yeah that is a really light weight hitch.So post-mortem:
No evidence the bolts were loose. No wallowing/wear of the frame/hitch holes, no damage to the bolt threads that passed through.
As far as I can tell the frame has been bent. I can find no pictures online I can verify are of a K5 hitch, even on the new ones being sold (lots of images, but I suspect they are just representative). I'm *certain* two of the mounting tabs are supposed to be angled. Obviously with this one being bent downward from the failure if the forward mounts were supposed to be angled, they aren't, at least properly. They weren't bent evenly.
Frame at the drivers rear is cracked. That bolt hole has almost no material around it, and the crack is from the bolt hole to the end of the frame.
I didn't have a bunch of time to measure, but it looks like the vertical plates are slightly bent to one side. If I can get more time I may put a straightedge on them to see if what I see is reality and not my eyes playing tricks. The hitch will fairly often take a very sharp/heavy load as the hitch sometimes smacks or drags over water bars/thank-you-ma'ams, I hadn't considered that abuse before.
I have a spare frame around, there is a lot of variation in them. Hitch bolt holes line up, but that's about it.
I did make the plates to go inside the frame, but I don't think the rear portion will do much. The riveted in gas tank support necessitates removing almost all metal except where a nut/bolt head would contact. Unfortunately, without disassembling the bumper supports/body mounts, it's not possible to get bolts welded in as studs. Nuts on a plate are all that will fit without removing the bumper support/body mount plate, and based on their condition that would have been a lot more work. But that *really* needs to be the solution. Even with a plate up there, it moves around trying to get the bolts started. Holding the hitch in place trying to line three bolt holes up for each bolt is a pain. Next time however, removal at least will be easy.
I have a spare frame stripped down already, when I do this again the inside-frame plates will be made with bolts. Given the condition of this frame and hitch, a new hitch will definitely need to be the starting point. But I got this one put back together good enough to do what I needed it to do at the time.
Only got a couple of pics once I took it off. Looks like the specs are Class I if my cursory internet search was correct? Doesn't look like Valley makes hitches anymore.
No wonder it broke i am sure you have more than 2000 lbs of trailer, more importantly 200 lbs tongue weight
I was probably right at that weight any time I was towing. Never weighed the load, trailer alone is 500lbs. Rough math always had me around 2k loaded weight.
But I can bet dragging the hitch over hard packed dirt with a significant amount of truck weight on it, probably exceeded it's ratings lol.
Revisiting this as I may need to get a hitch shortly.
Anyone know of anyone other than Curt making a K5 hitch?
I've tried all the major retailers I can think of, (plus eBay). I suspect I either got linked to a hitch for another vehicle, or that hitch manufacturer has discontinued that design.
All I can find is the Curt now. I *know* I saw one with gussets not but a year ago or so, but now the only one I can find anywhere is the Curt.
It will probably be ok, but since I saw one already gusseted out there I'd sure like to find it if it was indeed for the K5.
Anyone know of anyone other than Curt making a K5 hitch?
I've tried all the major retailers I can think of, (plus eBay). I suspect I either got linked to a hitch for another vehicle, or that hitch manufacturer has discontinued that design.
All I can find is the Curt now. I *know* I saw one with gussets not but a year ago or so, but now the only one I can find anywhere is the Curt.
It will probably be ok, but since I saw one already gusseted out there I'd sure like to find it if it was indeed for the K5.
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Any hitch we buy these days needs some reinforcement, I am ok with that.
Although on my suburban build I am building a custom bumper and a hitch incorporated in. It will be straight in the frame not below
Problem is of course time. I'll have minimal time to install the hitch, let alone strengthen it. Basically it will be bolt on and go.
I can always reinforce it later of course, but I was hoping I could put a better hitch in now and be done with it. Oh well.
Cant tell if its the age of these rigs (definitely shrinking market for those sorts of parts) or industry consolidation, but stinks when there is but one manufacturer to choose from.
Did you try to look for used?
I know there's plenty on craigslist all the time for all kinds of vehicles maybe you can find a better product and possibly cheaper.
I got one for my wife's Nissan rogue for $50, like new.
New it's $275
I should probably check. Ive looked at eBay, thought maybe there would be some old stuff that popped up, but pretty hard to search when I don't know exactly what was made and thus what to search for.
I'll keep digging.
I'll keep digging.
That's cheaper than fixing hiswww.facebook.com
I found one off a K5 on marketplace. Probably no better than fixing your old one at this point.
I found one off a K5 on marketplace. Probably no better than fixing your old one at this point.
I appreciate that! Bent right where mine failed, so I don't see much benefit. Looks to be similar/same design hitch.
I've already "fixed" mine, but with the light duty nature of it, and the questionable strength after repair, I feel a new (and stronger) hitch is probably the better option. Especially now when I can still buy one...I expect before too long there wont be new available.
Just me probably, but I'm hesitant to put things into hard service after repair without being able to test a bit. I'm going to need to load up and go.
I wouldn't buy one already damaged like that without a good reason. But I tried to do a search on marketplace and could not come up with anything used that was better at the moment.
Oh I didn't look at it closely just looked at the price and assumed if they are selling it it's not damaged.
How silly am I
