No one ever claimed switching clusters was easy man
Its a pretty in-depth swap electrically speaking! However, I'm fairly sure we can get it figured out between the two of us
First things first, you'll need to do some wire tracing. To do this, you need a test light so you can see if the light comes on in the engine compartment and a known 12 volt source from inside the truck (any of the pink & black, first color being the dominate one, the other a stripe, wires will have 12 volts with the key on) so you can figure out which wire on the cluster connector connects to which sending unit wire in the engine compartment.
This job isn't quite as scary as it may seem, as you can quickly identify, and tape back several wires right off the bat.
First is your seatbelt wire. It has been yellow in all my trucks. When you turn your ignition on, it should provide 12 volts to turn on the idiot light.
Second is your turn signals. They are light and dark blue, located right beside eachother on the connector. They will have pulsating voltage with the signal lights on (remember which is which!)
Third is your highbeam indicator. They have been bright green on all my trucks, should have 12 volts when your highbeams are on
Fourth is all the hot on ignition wires, which are pink and black, and all have 12 volts on ignition on. (straight pink is NOT a power wire)
Fifth is your ground wires, they are all black and white. Easily identified by using a multimeter, and checking continuity between them and any good ground in your truck.
Sixth is your dash light wire, which is grey, and has 12 volts on when you turn your running lights / dash lights on.
Seventh is your brake idiot light, which is usually a tan / white wire, and can be tested by checking for ground on it when the e-brake has been pushed down.
Eighth is your SES idiot light, which should have ground when you turn your ignition on, activating the ECM.
Now, once you've got all these pulled back, there will not be very many wires left, and within them will be your 3 gauge wires, and depending on how the electrical speedometer hooks up, wires for it too. So, before we go over chasing wires down, lets go over what each of the gauges needs:
First gauge is the temp gauge. It needs a hot wire, ground wire, and the signal wire from the engine head. When its hooked up correctly, it will peg way past 0 without any input from the signal wire, and will peg all the way to the other side if you ground the signal wire. It usually has a green sending unit wire.
Second gauge is the oil pressure gauge, which has the same needs, and behaviour as the temp gauge wire. It may share power and grounds with your temp gauge, check the circuit sheet to find out. Usually has a tan and white sending unit wire.
Third is your fuel gauge, which again, is the same as the temp and pressure gauges. Usually has a straight pink sending unit wire.
Fourth is your volt meter, which needs a hot wire on one terminal, and a ground wire on the other.
So, now that you know all the requirments, you can chase down the sending unit wires. Simply apply 12 volts from one of the pink and black wires to the wire inside of the dash cluster connector (making sure that you've unplugged all the sending units on the engine!) and poking a test light in the end of the engine side connector, and the other side of the light to ground. If it lights up, you know which sending unit that wire is for, and you can then tape it back.
Once you've got all your wires figured out, you can then check all the circuits on the back of the printed sheet, and start pinning everything out the way it needs to be on the new cluster.
It takes a few hours, but is well worth it later
If you don't want the old idiot light sending units, lemme know. I've got full gauges right now, but I'd like to install a Check Gauges light on my truck, which involves installing a few idiot light sending units that'll turn it on
Oh, one more thing. Dash cluster connectors have gotta be the biggest pain in the butt of any on our trucks. You need to take a paper clip, bend the very tip if it over about 35 degrees, then hold the wire as far into the connector as it'll go, slide the paper clip in, then rotate it so the bent part bends the connector's pin in, allowing it to slide out. It takes some practice, but it isn't impossible
Good luck, and lemme know if you've got any more questions. Sorry I can't help you much with the speedo, but I've never seen an electric one in person.
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