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Idle Problems

MassMan

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Sep 20, 2010
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Massachusetts
Well, it's a little more than just idling. My blazer's got a crate 350 that i replaced a blown head gasket last winter right after i got the thing. so far, it hasn't run well enough to drive since. it had a lot of carb issues that i worked out myself, but it still doesn't like me.

for a week now, i've gone out to the truck, pumped the gas pedal once and it fires right up. it starts at 15" hg vacuum and 1100 rpm and it runs like it just needs a tune up for about 30 seconds. after that, the vacuum takes a nose dive, the engine starts chugging and misfiring, and it eventually slows and stops, at which point i can't get it to fire up for maybe 3 hours or so when the whole process starts over again. if i don't give it gas after it starts, it rill run for maybe 45 seconds or a minute. i can rev the engine to keep it going, but it still runs horribly.

today i tried it with all the vacuum accessories disconnected and the ports plugged, but there was no change. the carb (a Holley 4 barrel) used to pour gas down the intake from the vents, but i replaced the floats. the front bowl has a good fuel level, the rear i have just lowered the level to the minimum setting because none is used at idle and i don't think i can set that until i can get the engine above idle. i spent weeks making sure the timing wasn't 180* out of adjustment when i put everything back together, but i am planning to double check that tomorrow.

anyway, after all that any ideas?
 
Check for leaks around the intake runners, where it bolts to the heads. Possible gasket leak will cause what you describe.

Take carb cleaner with the truck idling, and spray up and down where the gaskets are, if the engine speeds up, chances are you got a leak. Easy way to check.
 
that's a check for vacuum leaks, right? so these are the symptoms of a vacuum leak then? sorry, i have no experience with this kind of stuff so all my diagnoses are based on google searches...
 
should it be opening sooner or later? i've been running it outside and it has been getting cold. if i watch the choke, how long should i expect it to take to open?
 
should it be opening sooner or later? i've been running it outside and it has been getting cold. if i watch the choke, how long should i expect it to take to open?

After it first starts,the choke plate should open at least a 1/4",if it doesn't the choke pull off might be not working,that will let the engine run too rich and eventually flood or foul the plugs and probably stall it out...this could explain why it runs good at first,then dies,and refuses to start until it has sat long enough to evaporate all the excess gas on the spark plugs,and in the intake..the choke should be wide open after 5-10 minutes run time after a cold start if its adjusted right and working properly..
 
well, removing the choke and letting it sit wide open let it run great. i'm ordering a manual choke now so i can adjust this stuff from the driver's seat. thanks for the help everyone!
 
Good to hear you finally got it running!!! Keep at it, you're learning a ton which will only make things easier down the road when you are working on something! (I remember one of your old threads)
 
yeah, i figure the problems i had in the last thread were pretty much the same deal. i gave up on the motor for the summer and replaced most of the floor and soaked the thing in rust bullet. now that it is solid enough to drive i want to try it out. i don't want it snowed in another winter!
 
actually, one more quick thing. when i started it up without the choke i got some serious pinging/detonation/whatever and shut it down. the timing's 35* advanced. i wan't able to start it today to try and adjust it, but i figure some advice couldn't hurt before i screw things up worse. i figure i want it back 25* or so, meaning clockwise rotation of the distributor cap (HEI). does the angle of rotation of the cap correspond to the timing angle (eg, i want to turn the cap 25* clockwise), or do i just keep moving it around and running it until i get the correct timing. i'm probably over thinking this, but the last time i set the timing on this thing it wouldn't start with less than 30* advanced timing and i'm afraid i'll see that again...
 
the last time i set the timing on this thing it wouldn't start with less than 30* advanced timing and i'm afraid i'll see that again...
You probably had to advance it that far because of the overly rich condition. Just set the timing to 8* BTDC and it should be fine.
 
I remember when you posted up a long time ago. Cant believe your still dealing with this! I feel your pain.
 
You have 25* at idle? Make sure you disconnect the vacuum advance when you are checking.
 
If you have an HEI distrubitor,the advance weights under the rotor might be stuck in the advanced position due to rust from sitting,etc--that'll keep the timing too far advanced ...you'll need to take the cap off and grab the rotor and turn it counter-clockwise,it should move fairly easily about an inch,and snap back when you let go of it..sometimes the little pins and springs that operated the weights get worn out or break...The only way to adjust the timing right is by using a timing light,with the vacuum, advance hose off and plugged (if it has a vacuum advance)...--you cant "guess" how much the timing will change judging by how much you move the distributor ,a small amount of movement moves the timing a lot..watching the timing mark as you rev up the engine will show if the centrifical advance is working or not,it should advance several degrees from the base setting at idle as the rpms increase..
 
well, the distributor is brand new, but i'll check it. i let the thing sit so long this summer the piston rings froze up with rust. i currently have the vac advance disconnected and the port on the carb plugged. i have a vacuum gauge off of the base of the carb so i can watch everything.

i got the manual choke this afternoon (got to love amazon student prime!) and i have the cable routed and the cap installed. i need to trim the cable to fit and then i'll be able to play with it some more. maybe tomorrow will warm up a bit and i'll get more done. thanks for the help everyone, i hope i get it running well this weekend so i can bother you guys with some more serious issues!
 
If you can't get it to run at around 8* advance from TDC, then you might have your distributor installed 1 tooth advanced from true TDC.

Bring the motor up on TDC with the piston at the very top of its stroke.

Mark the #1 pin on the dist cap down on the base of the distributor for reference and then see how far the rotor is off from the mark. You just might be 1 tooth advanced from TDC on your base timing.
 
i was afraid i would have to do that (again), but nope!

got it running yesterday. 8* advanced timing, 17"hg, cold idles at 1200 and drops to 700 when revved. sounds like i'm getting some tapping noise from the front of the engine, maybe the PS pump area, but other than that it runs great. wasn't able to drive it because my brake pedal went to the floor after i bled the system and i would like to stop it after it starts rolling. thanks for the help everyone, it feels great to have it running well after a year of headaches!
 
i was afraid i would have to do that (again), but nope!

got it running yesterday. 8* advanced timing, 17"hg, cold idles at 1200 and drops to 700 when revved. sounds like i'm getting some tapping noise from the front of the engine, maybe the PS pump area, but other than that it runs great. wasn't able to drive it because my brake pedal went to the floor after i bled the system and i would like to stop it after it starts rolling. thanks for the help everyone, it feels great to have it running well after a year of headaches!

Sounds like you need to do a little more bleeding.
 
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