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Idle surge and 44 code ** with Fix**

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bnc04

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I've developed a surging idle 400-900rpms and a stumble from 1k-2krms. When pulling codes I get a 12 and 44. Will a leak in the Throttle Body Gasket cause the O2 sensor code?
This is a stock 88 with 350 TBI and Auto.

I replaced the o2 Sensor about 2 years ago with a bosch and the TBI gasket about a year ago for an idle surge and that fixed it. It seems to be back because when spraying carb cleaner around the base, the idle "seems" to smooth out. I've not really had the time to get in there like I would like yet.

Tia
Brett
 
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Something I had happen to me twice was, Warpage of the throttle body itself. some people will scream BULL****, but I saw it with my own eyes, thing was warped almost 0.100 think about that for a minute. thats a considerable amount, anyway, I spent the better part of a day with a file and a machinists rule, and managed to save both throttle bodies. Serious fore arm workout though, much like visiting the pigpen!:doah:
 
Well I replaced the gasket and the symptym stays the same. Sorry but I am a total newb on this stuff. Do I have a MAP sensor with TBI?

When I actuate the EGR solonid while idling, it seems to smooth out at stay at a higher idle. Would this be a egr control solonoid or the EGR itself? I;m not sure how it is supposed to work. Thanks for your patience.
Brett
 
Mine was surging like that but I did not have a code 44 I had the code for TPS Low Voltage. I replaced the TPS and my idle smoothed right out.:D

Ira
 
I replaced the O2 Sensor and no change.

Unplugging the TPS connector stops the surging. Would this indicate the TPS is the culprit?
Brett
 
Well, a few years ago, when mine surged, and threw a code 44, i ended up throwing parts at it left and right, first was the O2 sensor, then it would throw a different code, replaced that, then back to the O2 sensor.

Surging idle, no power at take-offs, sometime would even backfire through the intake, sometimes just flat out stall.

I was unfortunately in San Diego visiting my brother (then in the Navy) and ended up driving it BACK to Phoeinx, NEVER able to get it to go into overdrive because of the poor running conditions...

Compared things with a friends truck, same motor, replaced the EGR valve, nothing,,,,tried carb cleaner to check for vacuum leaks, but was told it doesn't work the same for fuel injected engines, that i needed to use either WD-40,,,or water, something about having to SEAL up the leak with this stuff...

Compared the spray pattern from the injectors from my truck, to the friends, and there was a big difference...We check the fuel pressure, it was low.

Changed out the fuel pump, and it drove like a new truck...


check your fuel pressure
 
bnc04 said:
I replaced the O2 Sensor and no change.

Unplugging the TPS connector stops the surging. Would this indicate the TPS is the culprit?
Brett
Click to expand...

No

MAP sensor is a possibility as is a weak fuel pump. You still have many things to check. If you know someone with the same engine its easy to swap a lot of these parts.

The best thing to look for with the EGR is that it moves. The bad ones I've replaced have worn out and not moved, usually bound up in a part-open position.

Does it run better/worse or same when in open and closed loop?
 
I wish I did have somebody with the same to swap parts, after closer inspection the egr seems to move freely when I throttle up and down and when I suck on the hose( opening myself up there)

I don't know how to tell if I am in open or closed loop yet, I'll search some on that one. The fuel pump has never been replaced on this so it is also a likely candidate and we have been running the tank pretty low with the gas prices of late.
Brett
 
4xcrazy said:
Well, a few years ago, when mine surged, and threw a code 44, i ended up throwing parts at it left and right, first was the O2 sensor, then it would throw a different code, replaced that, then back to the O2 sensor.

Surging idle, no power at take-offs, sometime would even backfire through the intake, sometimes just flat out stall.

I was unfortunately in San Diego visiting my brother (then in the Navy) and ended up driving it BACK to Phoeinx, NEVER able to get it to go into overdrive because of the poor running conditions...

Compared things with a friends truck, same motor, replaced the EGR valve, nothing,,,,tried carb cleaner to check for vacuum leaks, but was told it doesn't work the same for fuel injected engines, that i needed to use either WD-40,,,or water, something about having to SEAL up the leak with this stuff...

Compared the spray pattern from the injectors from my truck, to the friends, and there was a big difference...We check the fuel pressure, it was low.

Changed out the fuel pump, and it drove like a new truck...


check your fuel pressure
Click to expand...

Ding ding ding,, You win the prize.

By the time and price that I would have gotten the fuel pressure test all together, I decided to spring for the pump and install it today, Bada bing,,, Steady idle and runs MUCH better. I'll be doing plugs/wires and rotor next week and can't wait!!!. Thanks again,, you guys are awesome and the advice here has paid for my membership 5x times over!!!!!!!!!!!!

Brett
 
Well, you are very welcome for the ideas, but in all honesty, that's basically all we gave you, were ideas, as far as the fuel pump, i mentioned this, because that's what mine did, and just mentioned you should check the pressures. Going ahead and just flat out changing the pump, was kind of a shot in the dark, as with these computer controlled thingamabops, it very well COULD have been something else.

Glad you found the problem though, and i will tell you, the next thing to go out on you, will be an injector :p: :doah: ,,,,when this happens, DO NOT buy one from Autozone, spend the little extra cash, and get the exact replacement from Napa or Carquest or some type of REAL car parts store,,,,,ask me how i know:doah:
 
My 90 Blazer has 130K on it with the original fuel pump and sock. I'ma going to replace the pump soon but I'm just not looking forward to dropping the tank. I think that I have to remove the trailer receiver before I can even remove the skid plate and drop the tank. =(
 
I got mine out without dropping the hitch.

The skidplate can be removed easily if you pull the bumper, loosen up the rear skid plate bolts, remove the front ones, then slightly bend the skidplate down, and the rear most skid plate mounts will now allow you to slide the skidplate straight down and off.

IIRC, it could be very hard to remove the hitch with the tank in place, as it's near impossible to get a wrench on the bolts or nuts inside the frame.
 
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