Yes, Stomis and Scottishdave, you're included.....
Now that everybody has had their fun, and demonstrated that this hobby actually has a useful purpose, you need to start thinking about the front and rear ends minimum, in some cases even the transfer cases and transmissions.
I know that everybody has the vent hoses raised very high, but in really deep water most times that is not enough.
The problem is, the seals on the input shafts, and front axles are not designed to keep liquids out, just oil in.
And, they were not designed to handle any pressure. With your vent open, the seal will never see any more pressure than the force of the oil being slung towards it by the gears.
Whereas water exerts almost 1/2 pound PSI per foot of depth. (.43 psi/lb)
So, if your axle or input shaft was 2 feet deep, and some may have gone deeper, then you have almost a pound per square inch trying to get past a seal that is not designed for pressure.
So, as soon as you can, you need to either check or change the oil in, at least, the front and rear ends.
If you have a filler hole, you can usually tell if there is water in there.
First of all, it will usually be overfull, and a lot of oil will run out when you pull the plug.
Second, you need to spin the gears fast just before pulling the plug. In other words, drive it around the block, park it and immediately pull the plug.
This will mix the oil and water really well, and give you a good milkshake look to the oil when you check it.
If it has sat for a while, the water will settle out and the top oil might look good.
Of course, the front end or hubs need to be engaged when you do it so it turns fast too.
What makes me an expert on this stuff? Apart from my general brilliance and vast knowledge of all things.......?
Well, for almost 15 years during every hunting season, I drove a 6wd CJ5 across a small creek at least twice a day with the water coming up to my crotch and pouring into the top of the transmission through the shifter boot as well as the front and rear ends and transfer case.
The rest of the time, I crossed other deep holes and drove down flooded roads.
When I got my '79 F150, the transmission and t-case stayed fairly dry, but the front and rear ends filled up every year. (bigger tires).
Now here is the part that is going to get me flamed. I can produce no scientific proof, only many years of experience.
Water in the chunks will not do much, if any, damage if they are kept turning often.
Driving them mixes the oil and water and coats everything with an oil film for a while.
You would think that the water would interfere with the lubrication at the high load areas, like gear faces and bearing contacts.
Apparently it doesn't. I know of some equipment that is water lubricated, so it must have some lubricating property.
What destroys the equipment, is when it sits for a while. The oil film drains off, and the tops of the parts that are out off the oil start to rust.
I base all this on the fact that my '79 had over 200K on the original front and rear parts, and ran with water in them for over a month each year.
My '89 has more than that, but the roads have improved, and most years I don't get water in.
But, I have done so several times over the years.
I would not venture a guess how many miles the Jeep had on it. I wore out 2 engines, but the front end was original.
The rear end was changed out, but that was due to mechanical damage unrelated to water.
Now that everybody has had their fun, and demonstrated that this hobby actually has a useful purpose, you need to start thinking about the front and rear ends minimum, in some cases even the transfer cases and transmissions.
I know that everybody has the vent hoses raised very high, but in really deep water most times that is not enough.
The problem is, the seals on the input shafts, and front axles are not designed to keep liquids out, just oil in.
And, they were not designed to handle any pressure. With your vent open, the seal will never see any more pressure than the force of the oil being slung towards it by the gears.
Whereas water exerts almost 1/2 pound PSI per foot of depth. (.43 psi/lb)
So, if your axle or input shaft was 2 feet deep, and some may have gone deeper, then you have almost a pound per square inch trying to get past a seal that is not designed for pressure.
So, as soon as you can, you need to either check or change the oil in, at least, the front and rear ends.
If you have a filler hole, you can usually tell if there is water in there.
First of all, it will usually be overfull, and a lot of oil will run out when you pull the plug.
Second, you need to spin the gears fast just before pulling the plug. In other words, drive it around the block, park it and immediately pull the plug.
This will mix the oil and water really well, and give you a good milkshake look to the oil when you check it.
If it has sat for a while, the water will settle out and the top oil might look good.
Of course, the front end or hubs need to be engaged when you do it so it turns fast too.
What makes me an expert on this stuff? Apart from my general brilliance and vast knowledge of all things.......?
Well, for almost 15 years during every hunting season, I drove a 6wd CJ5 across a small creek at least twice a day with the water coming up to my crotch and pouring into the top of the transmission through the shifter boot as well as the front and rear ends and transfer case.
The rest of the time, I crossed other deep holes and drove down flooded roads.
When I got my '79 F150, the transmission and t-case stayed fairly dry, but the front and rear ends filled up every year. (bigger tires).
Now here is the part that is going to get me flamed. I can produce no scientific proof, only many years of experience.
Water in the chunks will not do much, if any, damage if they are kept turning often.
Driving them mixes the oil and water and coats everything with an oil film for a while.
You would think that the water would interfere with the lubrication at the high load areas, like gear faces and bearing contacts.
Apparently it doesn't. I know of some equipment that is water lubricated, so it must have some lubricating property.
What destroys the equipment, is when it sits for a while. The oil film drains off, and the tops of the parts that are out off the oil start to rust.
I base all this on the fact that my '79 had over 200K on the original front and rear parts, and ran with water in them for over a month each year.
My '89 has more than that, but the roads have improved, and most years I don't get water in.
But, I have done so several times over the years.
I would not venture a guess how many miles the Jeep had on it. I wore out 2 engines, but the front end was original.
The rear end was changed out, but that was due to mechanical damage unrelated to water.
