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IFS Overhaul questions

scottishdave

scottishdave

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Mission : Getting stationed from NC to CA...Drive 1996 chevy tahoe with 182k across country and add many more miles to lifespan.

Problem : NOTHING on the IFS has been replaced in 182k miles except the shocks. She wobbles, pull's, refused to hold alignment, eats up and flat spots tires with a hunger.

I want to completely overhaul this front end...All the steering and suspension, drivetrain everything.

Any IFS experiance around these parts?

If you were going to make an IFS feel good as new, what list of things would you replace?
 
Stomis said:
Replace everything but see if there is a better idler arm and use poly bushings.
Click to expand...


See I am very unfamiliar with what i got going on under there. Trying to figure out what all "Everything" entails, :doah:

By better idler arm, do you mean aftermarket or just replace with anouther factory one?
 
scottishdave said:
See I am very unfamiliar with what i got going on under there. Trying to figure out what all "Everything" entails, :doah:

By better idler arm, do you mean aftermarket or just replace with anouther factory one?
Click to expand...


Aftermarket, and if one is not available then go with a moog replacement.

Items to replace:

TREs
I believe the pitman arm is a wear item
Center link
Shocks
Idler arm
Upper and lower control arm bushings
Swaybar links
Ball joints

Thats the whole front end other than bearings and torsion bars aka springs
 
These trucks are notorious for eathing ball joints and tie-rod ends.

Everything is:
  • Ball joints upper & lower both sides
  • TRE's inner & outer both sides (new adjustment sleeves help if your truck spent time in the rustbelt)
  • Pitman Arm (has a ball stud on it)
  • Idler Arm (bolts to the passenger side frame rail opposite steering box)
  • (I did the center link on mine, the holes on the OEM one were wobbled out, only available from GM)

I'm a big fan of Moog parts. They are very good quality. The cheap china TRE's will break within 500 miles (ask me how I know). If your store can't get them, order them online from RockAuto.com
 
Thanks guys:waytogo:

Any suggestions on a good order in which to go instead of just blindly tearing it all apart??
 
I have two sizes of arm pullers already and two sizes of TRE forks. Done rod ends, pitman arms, wheel bearings and hubs on a Solid Axle. But past brakes and shocks, i have done nothing on the front end of this IFS.

Guess i can just follow along in a Haynes or Chiltons.

Just wanted to know what parts in what order you guys recomended replacing to make like new.

Thanks again.
 
I can't help you much. If it were a Ford, I could give you some pointers. But, its a lot like anything else.
When in doubt, jack it up with both wheels off the ground, and start shaking things to see what moves and what is supposed to keep it from moving.
 
scottishdave said:
I have two sizes of arm pullers already and two sizes of TRE forks. Done rod ends, pitman arms, wheel bearings and hubs on a Solid Axle. But past brakes and shocks, i have done nothing on the front end of this IFS.

Guess i can just follow along in a Haynes or Chiltons.

Just wanted to know what parts in what order you guys recomended replacing to make like new.

Thanks again.
Click to expand...

Also if you do the control arm bushings you'll need an alignment as the truck has the cammed type bolts for adjustment not shims you can put back like they were. But you'll need an alignment anyway doing all the steering.
 
Stomis said:
Also if you do the control arm bushings you'll need an alignment as the truck has the cammed type bolts for adjustment not shims you can put back like they were. But you'll need an alignment anyway doing all the steering.
Click to expand...


:haha::haha::haha:

This thing has laughed at the word alignment for a few years now, It knows not what that word means. Anyone who attempts the impossible (alignment) fails.

It does however dare the crap out of you to let go of that steering wheel, give this truck 1/2 a second and you will end up 25ft to the right or left in the blink of an eye.
 
if you have time to oreder the parts get the MOOG parts from rockauto.com

Great parts.

and like others said, all parts
 
63chevyll said:
if you have time to oreder the parts get the MOOG parts from rockauto.com

Great parts.

and like others said, all parts
Click to expand...

Thanks man....I used Moog when i did the tie-rods and drag link ends on my 72' and they seemed better quality than what was on there to begin with so I doubt I will every use anything other than Moog.

This truck has been through a lot. Been passed around the family since it was almost brand new. I put a brand new GM crate Vortec 350 in her about 2 years ago for peace of mind. Between myself and my Dad the Preventative Maint has been done like clockwork. The tranny still shifts perfect. But after 180k, That front end has just been worn the hell out. It has a 4" lift and 33", the only wheeling it ever does is driving on the beach a couple times a year if that even counts much.

Just want to get anouther 100k out of this thing and that front end is the only issue it has.

100_0408.jpg
 
Stomis said:
TREs
I believe the pitman arm is a wear item
Center link
Shocks
Idler arm
Upper and lower control arm bushings
Swaybar links
Ball joints
Click to expand...

Don't forget, you will need a torsion bar unloading tool, or some other way to unload the T bars to do the lower control arm bushings.

I sold mine before i did those, but i did everything else. And still had some weird vibes. Make sure to do it all while its apart.
 
I'm in same boat, My wifes 97 burban needs a ball joint and an axle seal with 275 on the clock

So if im going tear it down im going to do every moving joint in that thing, and even prob replace the front diff.

OR

a solid axle conversion, but I dont want any more than 2 inch of lift from it due to the fact we put over 10,000 mi a year on it on the highway.
I would only do due the lift/solid axle becase they are cool but, I have a solid axle burban already

OR

We may look into full size vans in the future, but thats a ways out
 
63chevyll said:
I'm in same boat, My wifes 97 burban needs a ball joint and an axle seal with 275 on the clock

So if im going tear it down im going to do every moving joint in that thing, and even prob replace the front diff.
Click to expand...

Why would you replace the diff? I see absolutely no reason for a highway vehicle....
 
dhcomp said:
Why would you replace the diff? I see absolutely no reason for a highway vehicle....
Click to expand...


Its 3.73 now and i want 4.10s to match my 9.5 14SF with 4.10s, thats waiting to go in, It has. 32ish metric tires,

sounds wierd, but we are always hauling tons of weight and the extra gear would help
 
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