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Ignition switch

thatK30guy

thatK30guy

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'85 K20, won't start, switch is shot.

Easy to remove? Get new replacements at the local Pep Girls?

What say you?
 
drop lower dash panel 4 screws.

drop 2 nuts for steering colum to drop few inches.

undo bad switch and install new.

reverse order to finish up.
 
Why does the column need to be dropped down a few inches?
 
To reach the switch, its on the top side of the column. Make sure the rod is in the correct position before installing the new switch.
 
Whoops. Let me rephrase the term...

I need to replace the ignition lock/cylinder switch. Where the key goes.
 
steering wheel puller

lock plate compressor

small reg screw driver and small curved pick.
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pop horn button

remove horn guts t-15 i think tourqs bit

remove big nut from center.

pop wheel with puller.

remove horn switch gut plate just slides off.

remove plastic lock plate cover.

compress the lock plate and remove the snap ring with screw drivr and pick.

remove lock plate slides off.

remove 1 tiny phillips screw in 4 way switch its spring loaded watch it dont blow all over and loose parts.

pull turn switch 3 small hex bolts and 1 for turn lever.

slide up a few inch and get 1 bolt for key tumbler.

slide out old tumbler slide in new tumbler.
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reverse order. sounds hard but real easy. i can do in 10 min .

new cylinder is 10 or so bucks with 2 keys. :thumb:
 
Thanks Brett! I sort of knew you'd be the one to reply to this.

Now to print this off so I can have it ready to swap cylinders after I get a new one....
 
thatK30guy said:
'85 K20, won't start, switch is shot.

Easy to remove? Get new replacements at the local Pep Girls?

What say you?
Click to expand...

Wes, the SWITCH is on the top side of the steering column under the dash like Brett said. If you can insert a key into the cylinder and it will turn then there is nothing wrong with the key cylinder. :deal:
 
4X4HIGH said:
Wes, the SWITCH is on the top side of the steering column under the dash like Brett said. If you can insert a key into the cylinder and it will turn then there is nothing wrong with the key cylinder. :deal:
Click to expand...
Ok, I hear ya now so lets try and get one or the other out of the way.

The key slides in the cylinder but its so worn the key will also fall out once its in the running position.

The chrome thumb/forefinger thing on the cylinder has broken off. One of the tabs is sheared off and will no longer stay on. I don't try to turn the key anymore in fear of breaking it.

It was hard to start because you had to turn the key all the way clockwise til it stopped to get started. Now it won't do anything because of the broken chrome part. I can still put that part on to help turn the key and it still doesn't do anything.

Sounds like both the cylinder and switch need to be replaced now.
 
Put the key tumbler in today. Still no dice. Won't turn over at all when key is cranked. Voltmeter is reading between 8 and 13 so I need to check if the battery is good or not.

We did pull start it just to see if it would start. It did. Drove it around the block a few times and parked it. Tried to restart it but dead.

Time to check the battery and if thats not it, do the switch under the dash on top of the column?
 
Maybe that plastic gear that connects to the ignition cylinder is striped and not meshing correctly pushing the rod down to the ignition switch?

Probably fine though, I'm sure you would have noticed it while doing the cylinder.
 
I don't know if this got solved or not, but undoing the slide switch from on top of the column at the base, 2 screws, pull the rod out and manually move the slide switch with a #1 phillips head or similar.. isolates the issue..
 
Does anyone have a blowup view of a steering column so I can see this rod you speak of?
 
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