ignition wiring woes...

[Stumpuller]

hey guys and gals...

gots another problem that i need some help with. I have an 82 s-10 that has a small block in it as one of my side projects. this truck is an on going project that will probably never be done but at least i can drive it now (hey thats the best kind)

when i put it together i used factory gm HEI ignition. one wire to the distributor and its done. well im putting a 305 in it while im rebuilding the engine (hey its from a k5 so its cool). while its down i bought a real tail shaft cross member for the tranny. now the distributor hits the fire wall because it dropped the tailshaft. i have one of the ol points style of distributor on ye olde parts shelf with a coil, but im clueless as to how to wire it up. i think it will clear the firewall just fine.

any help so i dont burn my little truck up.

 

[Cowboy_80]

you could shim the cross member so it raises the tail shaft...

Running points ignition...

http://www.familycar.com/Classroom/ignition.htm

That's a short and sweet lesson

 

[dyeager535]

I'd shim the crossmember/tranny mount, points are retarded unless you are dealing with a classic car where originality is an issue.

I think there are some conversion kits for points style distributors so they are essentially HEI, Pertronix maybe?

That I'm aware of, there were no small cap HEI non-ECM controlled factory distributors made.

 

[Cowboy_80]

Would a points distributor work with a remote coil and an MSD box? Gutting the points of course... Just curious, never tried it.

 

[Stumpuller]

it seems like i can take my hot wire and run into the positive side of the coil and run the negative side to the distributor.

is this right?
whats this primary resistor? i understand that it drops the voltage under normal running conditon but full 12 volts under starting.

do i really need it?

the reason im using this stuff is im trying to do this on the cheap ya know.
i gots an engine to build. plus i have piles of old chevy parts around

 

[Cowboy_80]

you need a ballast resistor. You'll burn it up w/o one.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Step 1: Remove HEI distributor

Step 2: Use hammer to pound in firewall

Step 3: Reinstall HEI distributor and wail on it

 

[Stumpuller]

what does a ballast resistor look like? i hope like a little inline fuse deal.

can i do without the full 12 volts under starting?

 

[kgblazerfive]

Step 1: Remove HEI distributor

Step 2: Use hammer to pound in firewall

Step 3: Reinstall HEI distributor and wail on it

I would do that you can move them very far and the points would be a pain if you have never used them before

 

[Stumpuller]

yeah its starting to look more and more like a firewall massage.
i hate to do it though, it looks bad enough as it is.

i also had some timing problems just before i pulled the old engine. i ran out of advance when the lug that the tach/bat wires plug into hit the firewall.
if i put the wires back where they need to be in relationship to the rotor, can i retard the cap 1/4 turn on the distributor base to get the lug away from the fire wall?

 

[lectric80]

Yes you can. A distributor doesn't really care about it's orientation in regards to the engine, only that it lines up with the proper points on the cap. You can adjust the rotor position to make sure that it points to #1, regardless of how it lined up on the engine.

 

[dremu]

yeah its starting to look more and more like a firewall massage.
i hate to do it though, it looks bad enough as it is.

i also had some timing problems just before i pulled the old engine. i ran out of advance when the lug that the tach/bat wires plug into hit the firewall.
if i put the wires back where they need to be in relationship to the rotor, can i retard the cap 1/4 turn on the distributor base to get the lug away from the fire wall?

Sure. As long as the firing order is correct, and the rotor points to #1 when on TDC on whichever stroke, the dizzy and cap can be rotated any way that's convenient.

-- A