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Illustrated Hydroboost swap

I have the pedal was trying to use a booster from an 89 in a 87 .
 
I have the pedal was trying to use a booster from an 89 in a 87 .
89 Square (crew cab) or GMT400? I know those firewall plates are different. Not sure on rod length
 
89 Square (crew cab) or GMT400? I know those firewall plates are different. Not sure on rod length
Not sure to be honest. Got the one for the 87 and it’s way better gonna try it and see how it goes the rod lengths seem to be the same .
 
Anyone dual drilled a brake pedal to have both vacuum and hydroboost capabilities?
I was thinking of using a tabbed lock washer on a shoulder bolt to keep it from spinning and just swapping the bolt over to the other hole when I hydroboost swap much later if ever.

4C8F6D43-CA87-4015-A4F0-A30500F35833.jpeg
 
Anyone dual drilled a brake pedal to have both vacuum and hydroboost capabilities?
I was thinking of using a tabbed lock washer on a shoulder bolt to keep it from spinning and just swapping the bolt over to the other hole when I hydroboost swap much later if ever.

View attachment 532853
I didn't do it but have the thought that if I needed it I would.
At this point I think all mine are HB
 
Had one factory . Was pulled from a k10 truck 85 or 86 . I pulled a pin from a std pedal and welded it in place . Worked fine no problems till i swapped to th400 combo .
 
I landed on a factory dual drilled brake pedal and this is the OEM punch location. Anyone see any reason why I couldn’t do this?
Top pin is 9/16” for hydroboost and bottom is the 1/2” vacuum pin.
TECHNICALLY it’s located at 2-1/2” instead of 2-7/8 “ but like is that really that big of a deal?

I’d like to weld it in and just always run two pins and not pull the pedal when I swap to hydroboost. Seems a little close to me but also seems like that might not even matter cause there’s only one push rod at a time.

Also how critical is the return spring on the hydroboost pedal?

E7A1F22D-0D25-4376-A75F-89EA0084FF85.jpeg
2BA565F4-8531-47ED-9E53-A63FB6178395.jpeg
 
I landed on a factory dual drilled brake pedal and this is the OEM punch location. Anyone see any reason why I couldn’t do this?
Top pin is 9/16” for hydroboost and bottom is the 1/2” vacuum pin.
TECHNICALLY it’s located at 2-1/2” instead of 2-7/8 “ but like is that really that big of a deal?

I’d like to weld it in and just always run two pins and not pull the pedal when I swap to hydroboost. Seems a little close to me but also seems like that might not even matter cause there’s only one push rod at a time.

Also how critical is the return spring on the hydroboost pedal?

View attachment 533676
View attachment 533677
I see no problem with this.
But the return spring is important.
Mine is missing and I have to pull it up with my foot or the brake lights stay on
 

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