I'm a Noob, can you tell?

[kablooie]

Hi,
I am currently looking into a purchasing a 73-8? K5. I have seen a couple on EBay and a couple in the local listings.... But I want to learn more about everything.

I have read some posts on what to look at when inspecting the vehicle, 350" versus 400", body versus engine, etc. I do need some clarification on some things though.

My preference is a 350 block and a pre 75 model due to CA smog laws (STUPID). I have a corvette 4 bolt 350" that I'll probably eventually mildly rebuild with 400 heads and use at one point or another. I am not into hard core wheeling so I don't need something extreme. It will be my primary driver to and from work 20 miles or so one way. I would eventually like to go 4x4'ing somewhere so I am keeping that in mind.

One thing I am not clear on is fulltime versus parttime 4x4. I saw somewhere that a 1973 350" probably has a np203(?) and is fulltime. What is the difference between FT and PT? Is FT a bad thing for my needs?

I am looking at the following as possibilities:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=003&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=130130874913&rd=1&rd=1 (looks nice, except the 400 block, prone to overheating as I have read).

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=003&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=130128931683&rd=1&rd=1 (haven't heard back from the owner)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=001&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=110145456440&rd=1&rd=1 (haven't heard back either, 305" seems desirable for the gas mileage...right?)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=009&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=190126984487&rd=1&rd=1 (dumba$$ owner wouldn't let me inspect it before the auction ends, he had too many plans and crap). having an auction end on july 4th at 6:30pm PST. wtf?

Lastly: http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail.jsp?paId=232312754 (owner says is very negotiable on the price. roll bar welded in, needs new carpet, 33" tires, 350"/350TH, needs ball joint work, minor rust, owner thinks a 2" lift)

Anyway, my budget is between $3k - $3500 and I won't be able to spend much money after that for upgrades/mods & major work. So the truck needs to be in somewhat ready daily driver condition (minus the usual stuff: brakes, oil, plugs, etc. that stuff is cheap and I can get it done). So let me know what you recommend, any suggestions that I need to remember, etc. What I am mostly unfamiliar with is the transfer case.... Which is "best" for my needs and cheap enough to overhaul, etc.

Again any pointers or assistance is GREATLY appreciated. If I can't get a Blazer soon, my wife is going to force me to get a 1986 Mustang GT convertable in not so good condition. I am sick of owning Fords, ugh!

-Louie

 

[RIPPEDK5]

Well as far as transfercases go im not sure what came in what year. But the np203 is the full time case which means both front and rear driveshafts and axleshaft are ALWAYS moving. On top of that there are no hubs to lock in... There is a substantial mile per gallon lose with this set up. (remember that the np203 is cast iron-chain driven and is VERY HEAVY) as far as ease of replacing parts and maintenance.. probably not going to happen easily... The np208 is an aluminum case (lighter, less case strength), chain drive unit which is part time (which means you have manual locking hubs, and in 2wd selection.. Only the rear driveshaft moves) (nothing in the front is engaged like the 203).

The np205 is the best bet which is a Part time GEAR driven, cast iron case which is the best of both worlds; but some say lacks the low range (np205 -1.9:1 low range versus 2.7:1 -np208).

 

[Craig Artzner]

If you're looking for a fulltop, beware of the front body mount area. Here's some pictures of my '75 Blazer I bought back in '98 that had rotted body mounts. The fulltops have alot of stress on the bodies when the top is off and once they start rusting the fenders seem to want to split from the doors. I've seen others with the same affliction. Make sure those front body mounts and especially the bracketry right that at that junction are solid.

These pictures are in time-order from when I first bought it to within a year after taking the top off it split that much. But if you're in California this may not be much of an issue since you guys never have rust.

As far as fulltime and part-time 4WD go, My '73 has part-time 4WD because it's a manual tranny. The automatic-equipped ('73-'75) Blazers came with fulltime 4WD (like my '75 pictured) but the manual tranny ones came standard with part time lockouts.

Here's my stock '73 (I just took this pic earlier today) with the factory spicer lockouts (and my "new" license plates).

 

[Randy92782]

If you're looking for a fulltop, beware of the front body mount area. Here's some pictures of my '75 Blazer I bought back in '98 that had rotted body mounts. The fulltops have alot of stress on the bodies when the top is off and once they start rusting the fenders seem to want to split from the doors. I've seen others with the same affliction. Make sure those front body mounts and especially the bracketry right that at that junction are solid.

These pictures are in time-order from when I first bought it to within a year after taking the top off it split that much. But if you're in California this may not be much of an issue since you guys never have rust.

As far as fulltime and part-time 4WD go, My '73 has part-time 4WD because it's a manual tranny. The automatic-equipped ('73-'75) Blazers came with fulltime 4WD (like my '75 pictured) but the manual tranny ones came standard with part time lockouts.

Here's my stock '73 (I just took this pic earlier today) with the factory spicer lockouts (and my "new" license plates).

just had to throw in the license plates pic
i can't add much to this cause it's already been covered. another thing to keep an eye out for if you're buyin a Blazer is the back where the tailgate is. mine's rusted out bad but couldn't see it due to the carpet still being in it. i mean it is bad bad

 

[kablooie]

so the np208 or no205 seem okay for my needs. i think the np208 would be better b/c of the aluminum case.

now, how can i tell what is installed by visually looking under the truck? secondly, if a np203 is already installed, how difficuly is it to put in the 208 or 205 and what do they run $ wise?

thanks,
Louie

 

[dremu]

Well, it may be simpler.

A pre-smog truck in CA I recommend for two reasons: one being smog, and the other being that they're full convertible, as opposed to the 76-91 trucks which are half-cab. The cutoff is 1976 and later model years, btw; 1975 and previous model years are exempt.

As for the transfer case, 70's trucks with the automatic have the NP203, and with a stick, the '205. The idea being that a person wanting an automatic transmission wouldn't want to fiddle with locking hubs, I guess.

However, most of them have been converted to part-time by the installation of a kit, or at least manual locking hubs. Honestly, I would *not* base the choice of truck on the transfer case, as they're easy enough to swap if you want to change once you get the thing. For mild trails and such, any case will do you just fine.

And an NP205 is just as heavy a pig as a '203 ... stronger because they're gear-driven instead of chain, but again, unless you're doing crazy off-roading and have a heavy right foot, the '203 can live for a long time

Note that changing cases prolly means changing driveshafts and whatnot, but if you can swap engines, a t-case swap is like a tranny swap, easy, just HEAVY.

Alternately, you can convert a fulltime truck to part-time; the kits are available and not exorbitant, or you can prolly find a whole t-case that's already been converted cheap. NP203's are EVERYWHERE.

Now, "fuel economy" and "fullsize Blazer" are not phrases that go together. The 305, while perhaps getting better economy, is a gutless wonder by many accounts. The 6.2L diesel in the 80's is the same -- I know GREAT economy but no real oopmh.

Yes, the 400's have a bad rap for cooling due to the siamesed cooling passage; I'd stick with a 350 as they're cheap, simple, and run forever.

Rust is gonna be your primary concern; check the wheelwells, and the under-cab area, especially around the front of the doors as Craig pointed out. Also the tailgate and the floor sills.

If you're not set on the full-convertible, you might look into 1987-1991 Blazers; they're fuel-injected (TBI) and get better mileage than the older, carbed trucks, not least due to the four-speed overdrive tranny (the TH700R4.) These will have the NP208 (or its close cousin the NP241). They're also smog trucks, however, and IMHO, not remotely as fun as the older ones. But I'm biased

-- A

 

[dremu]

so the np208 or no205 seem okay for my needs. i think the np208 would be better b/c of the aluminum case.

now, how can i tell what is installed by visually looking under the truck? secondly, if a np203 is already installed, how difficuly is it to put in the 208 or 205 and what do they run $ wise?

thanks,
Louie

Blazers from 1981 had the NP208, so that's easy. 1980 models all had the 205, and the older models are split auto/manual as above.

Again, I wouldn't stress about it; a t-case is a couple hundred bucks, plus maybe driveshafts, crossmember, adapter, which can all be had at the junkyard or from Craigslist or here when you become a paid member ... but for the driving you describe, any t-case will be fine. The part-times don't get THAT much better mileage that you can easily recoup the cost of fiddling with it.

Get the truck and body style you want; the drivetrain can be changed.

-- A