GsxrMike
1/2 ton status
Anybody know how to install a new rear window. I alread have the glass.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
I'm DUMB! Don't shut your rear hatch with window half way up!
- Thread starter GsxrMike
- Start date
syclonekid43
1/2 ton status
you have to take the gaskets off the top in order to get the track out. there should be 2 bolts holding the bottom of the glass to the regulator.
i blew the back window out on my s10. i was holding the rear window up on top of my head while i was putting the bolts in. the gasket on the outside moved and didnt see it. next thing you know. the glass broke and had glass all in my hair down my shirt. man it was a big old mess
i blew the back window out on my s10. i was holding the rear window up on top of my head while i was putting the bolts in. the gasket on the outside moved and didnt see it. next thing you know. the glass broke and had glass all in my hair down my shirt. man it was a big old mess
The black felts that seal the glass have to be removed. that said you need to buy new ones to put back because the old will bend all up. LMC or GM to get.
327006 inner
327005 outter
GM seals $33.00 each
327006 inner
327005 outter
GM seals $33.00 each
86-1ton
1/2 ton status
i went through 3 back windows in my first - '83 Blazer... then i welded the tailgate shut so it wouldn't move and flex and bust the window... yeah, it sucked...!
GsxrMike
1/2 ton status
How hard/easy is it to install a truck tail gate? My master plan would be truck tailgate, full cage with a custom made soft top. I guess I could knock out one of the 3 right now. LOL
ha. thats something almost every k5 owner has to learn the hard way. luckily i did it to some dealers truck when i was detailing cars. those tailgates are supposed to have a safty lock so you cant open them unless the window is down all the way..... but i guess that dont help much cause i rolled it up to clean it and only put it down half way 
GsxrMike
1/2 ton status
Yeah what I did is I couldn't get the damn thing up so I ran over a wire from the battery and rolled it up half way and then I was going to shut it and roll it up the rest. OOPS!
daleearnhardt01
1/2 ton status
You dont have to buy new gaskets, if you are careful taking them out they will be fine. I have done this many times with no problems
OK I need to know how to then! Because I tried it with one that had glass in it and can't see how with glass in to do it.
PLEASE and thank you.
lectric80
3/4 ton status
I have done it on a Burb when I pulled the stuff out of the tailgate a few weeks ago. Basically I used a small screwdriver to pry the weatherstip out away from the tailgate, then used it to pull up on the strip. This pulled the clips without breaking the window, and got it out in one piece without bending. The inner strip is going into my Blazer this weekend. The outer strip wouldn't work because it was so brittle.
The strips on my Blazer are so brittle(outside) and stiff(inside) that I can't do this, but I have to do a regulator and outer handle so I can do them all at once.
GSXR, there should be four bolts that hold the windows bottom channel to the regulator, remove those and you can get the channel out. The channel will have to come out of the top of the gate. Then you can clean the channel and get ready for new mounting glue that is used with the window. This is also a good time to add some fresh grease to the regulator to keep it working for a long time. I have also gotten parts from Classicparts.com and they seem to be a bit higher quality for the weatherstipping than the stuff from LMC. The outer strip I have pretty much matches the original quality from the factory. The prices are competitive with LMC as well, I believe I paid a few dollars less than LMC wanted for that strip.
The strips on my Blazer are so brittle(outside) and stiff(inside) that I can't do this, but I have to do a regulator and outer handle so I can do them all at once.
GSXR, there should be four bolts that hold the windows bottom channel to the regulator, remove those and you can get the channel out. The channel will have to come out of the top of the gate. Then you can clean the channel and get ready for new mounting glue that is used with the window. This is also a good time to add some fresh grease to the regulator to keep it working for a long time. I have also gotten parts from Classicparts.com and they seem to be a bit higher quality for the weatherstipping than the stuff from LMC. The outer strip I have pretty much matches the original quality from the factory. The prices are competitive with LMC as well, I believe I paid a few dollars less than LMC wanted for that strip.
GsxrMike
1/2 ton status
Thanks for all of the help guys. My window wasn't working well to begin with so what should I replace to make it work better before I put in the new glass? When I ran a 12ga. wire from the battery it seemed to work alot better but still not real good. Thanks again!
K5-Kelly
1/2 ton status
As a journeyman Auto Glass Tech I have to deal with this every once in a while. To save the inner and outer belt mouldings what I do is reach inside the tail gate from the inner access (after you remove the cover) and push up on the metal clips flexing them out away from the gate itself. Use your free hand to lift up on the belt molding as you go. Work from one side and work your way across un-doing each clip as you come to it. It works everytime if you use your patience. When I replace a rear window I usually order six things. Window, inner left and right window runs (guides), glass sash and the inner and outer belt moldings. Window because it's gone, the glass sash because it's rotted and bent. Glass runs because they usually are rotted and junk and finally the belt moldings. Not because we can't save them it's just because we don't want the old ones scratching the new window. When you got it open unbolt everything and clean all the parts in solvent/varasol with a brush. Lubricate all moving parts with Litihium spray lube. If you use Lithium it won't break down the plastic or nylon rollers. When you put the window back on the sash use a product called Everseal. It comes on a roll and you pull out enough the same length as the window. I'd use the 1/32nd thickness material. Test fit the sash onto the window making sure it's going to go on the right way and mark your left to right distance using tape or a sharpie. Wearing nitrile gloves put a crease on it and lube it with solvent laced rag till it's soaked. Place it on the bottom of the glass and knock the sash onto the glass with a rubber mallet. Do this with the glass standing up with the bottom facing up on an old carpet. Make sure you don't put it on backwards as it's not fun to redo. You can pull it off when it's wet but after it dries it's not fun. Check all adjustments as your safety switch is dependent on correct adjustment inorder for it to work right. Trust me it's simple.
Ummm OK after that I will PAY to have a glass shop replace my clear with the deep tinted on I have. Kelly you have more patient (and skinnier arms) than me mate. Plus adjusting it would be a P.I.A.
I got lucky scored the deep tint with the NOS tail gate I got.
I got lucky scored the deep tint with the NOS tail gate I got.
Obseen
Registered Member
ouch, thats the same thing that happened to my first window, however it was my cousin that did it, so I got a free new one outta guilt 
