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I'm gonna be able to turn again...Updated 4/2 with results and ???s

gmc4cw

gmc4cw

1/2 ton status
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spent some time yesterday fabbing some brackets for hydro assist. now that the hard parts are done it won't be long till its done. I have the end cap from JKWoffroad. just have to tap the top cap, mod the pump, install the end cap(heard its a pain), have some lines made, grind the welds so they are pretty, shoot some paint.


The list isn't that long but it will take me 3 weeks to get all that done. I wish I worked less and stored the truck where i lived.

tabs.jpg
 
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looking good! but I dont see the rockcrusher cover on......Please post pics of the rest of the installation cause this is something I would like to do later this year
 
Have the box off to put the cap in. If its in a vice, you can get to the ring better. I cleaned the surface inside before I put the new cap on. You may have to use a chisel or punch to install the ring properly. I had to on both of the caps I have installed. You may want to go ahead and order a new oring for the end. None of the part stores around me had just the oring. I drove 20 miles and paid 38.00 for a complete rebuild kit because I needed the oring right then. You may get away with the using old one, but it is not a job I wanted to do again.
 
The cover will go on. I wanted to get all the welding and fab out the way for the changes I am making first. Now I can tear into the truck and make it non-driveable. I had to load it on the trailer to get it to my dad's shop to do the welding. I try to write out everything I want to do and then put it into an order where I only tear into something once. The cover is for the gear ratio change.

It goes like this. in no particular order, but one project at a time. I have 6-7 hours every thursday when I can work on it. I drop my son off at my mom's at 10:30am and am supposed to pick him up by 5:00pm. I'm always late. The rest of my week is work, family or sleep.

hydro assist. working on it. Then wheel it.

clock the t-case and flat bottom it. I have the clocking ring, just need time. Then wheel it.

taper the front and rear. already have another set of fenders skinned and ready to go. just need time to cut the hood, rad support and hang the new skins. Wheel it.

inboard the rear springs. I have the frame brackets made, just need to weld on the perches and time to remove the front spring hangers, the rears are flips so they come off in minutes. Wheel it.

rear discs. I have everything, just need time and the drums work for now. Wheel it.

regear to 5.13's or if I can get an open 14bolt 4.10 carrier for free or real cheap I'll go with 5.38's, wheel it.

can you tell I need more wrenchin time. I miss being single and living at my dads.
 
Leper said:
You may want to go ahead and order a new oring for the end.
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my steering box is new and only has three rides on it. is there a chance of tearing the O-ring or is your advice for guys with used boxes?
 
April 1st.....tick.....tock.....tick.....tock.......:D


I wish I could help, but I don't get off work until 4:00PM on Thursdays.
 
gmc4cw said:
my steering box is new and only has three rides on it. is there a chance of tearing the O-ring or is your advice for guys with used boxes?
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I tore one of those rings trying to re-install my end cap. Completely my fault though. Just go slow and pay attention and I bet you'll be fine.
 
I had a nightmare installing the end cap on my first box. Then when that box wasnt gonna work for me i had to take it off and reinstall it on another box. While doing this i took my little phnematic (sp) buffer thingy and cleaned up the scratches and gouges i put in the cap on the first install. It went right in like butter on the next box.
 
the next step is done. the end cap was a really easy install. I had to take the box of the frame to get the snap ring out. the hole in the box were you can use a punch to push the ring out is on top. for anyone doing this it easy as long as you are patient. use your punch to spin the ring around so that the ends are near the hole. that way when you push on it it will come out.

the stock cap came right out. I turned the steering input shaft by hand and it pushed the cap right out. turned it back to give myself room. the o-ring has to go on the new end cap. It will not sit in the groove of the box. I lined it up and pushed slowly keeping it flush. if you lean it to one side the o-ring will push out. once I had the o-ring inside the box I slowly tapped the cap in.

At this point I'm amazed because everyone has said how this is a nightmare. I put the end of the snap ring in and held it with a vise-grip. tapped the ring in and seated it with a punch.

Done! simple as that. I got lots of scuff marks on the cap but I don't care. You could keep it pretty with a rubber mallet or a rag over a normal hammer.

Sorry, but I'm no Manny. I always forget to take pics. I was pulling the garage door down for the night when I remembered that there might be people that want to see this.

steering 004.jpg
 
update time. its been almost 3 weeks. just like my prediction in the first post. got it all hooked up today. The hydro makes a big difference. before I could not turn the tires in my driveway while not moving. now I can turn them at idle(450-500 rpm) at about 7-8 psi.

I have less then $300 wrapped up in everything. I don't know why I didn't do this earlier, probably because I went mudding where turning was easier. now that I play in the rocks, turning ability is a must.

on to the pics. one of the tach to show you were it idles. on of the rams final mounting. I went with a 2x8". and a video of the truck turning at idle. open headers during the testing, so it sounds sweet.

http://s117.photobucket.com/albums/o47/gmc4cw/?action=view&current=P1010407.flv

I can watch that over and over again. open headers sound so awesome. It will get the exhaust hooked back up, because its annoying on the trail.

P1010405.JPG

P1010410.JPG
 
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obijuan said:
duuuuuuuude that is sweet. only about 300 wow
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I have $290 in it if you count the synthetic fluid. You can get a cheaper ram if you get different ends on it or go with a smaller size.. you can also get the hoses cheaper. I needed this back together for this weekend.

I made the tabs, welded them on at my dad's work, and tapped the top cap myself all for free.
 
sandawgk5 said:
Was I right on the hose connections or did I have it backwards?

Ira
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yes, thanks.

this has to be one of the best bang for the buck mods I have done. If I had all the parts ready before doing the work and had a welder at home I could have done the whole job in 1 day. I got it all hooked up and bled and could not stop playing with the truck. :D luckily I have some big rocks in the woods behind the garage.
 
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time for an update. took it out to Paragon to play in the rocks. worked great for the first half of the day. I think I put too much pressure to the steering box and blew an internal seal. now the ram doesn't know what it wants to do. if you rev the engine the tires turn left. made getting it back to the trailer interesting.

I'm gonna take the steering box apart and see what is going on. anyone know how to test how much pressure the pump puts out?
 
thats not a stock tie-rod is it? might just be the pic, but it kinda looks bent. looks good
 
muddybuddy said:
thats not a stock tie-rod is it? might just be the pic, but it kinda looks bent. looks good
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yes it is a stock tie-rod. its not the pic. it has a slight bow to it. just enough to make you look twice at it. It doesn't hurt anything. I think it got that way when I was welding the tabs on.
 
i bent my stock tie rod while offroading with the hydro-assist. im sure you plan to upgrade once that breaks or you get the funds
 
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