Hubnut
1/2 ton status
My impact wrench, Chinese-made (crap), stopped working. All it does is let air pass through with no rotation. Both F and R positions are the same. Does this mean this thing is Tacoed?
CK5
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impact wrench diagnosis
- Thread starter Hubnut
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British Slave
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Vanes are probably stuck to the housing by rust. If you feel comfortable doing it, take it apart and clean it. Just watch where everything goes. Or you can try the quick fix and put some oil in the inlet, hook up the air, pull the trigger and sharply hit the drive end on a solid bench. That works for mine sometimes. If it works, put 10 or so drops of marvel Mystery oil in the air inlet and let her blow.
I was having a problem with my 3/8 MAC (Ingersol) and my dealer told me to try PB Blaster Air Tool Conditioner. Says to pour in the inlet and let sit for about 20 minutes and then put a rag over the exhaust and pull the trigger the oil stops coming out. He also said to MAKE SURE you use oil afterward because the conditioner cleans out all the oil.
It just so happens I make the IR products for a living...
1) oil is an impact/air tools best friend (an inline oiler is highly recommended but if you don't have one, make sure to put oil in it every time you use it - like five drops or so)
2) water is an air tool's worse enemy - an inline water separator is recommended as well, they're cheap compared to having to replace a tool
3) when you bang the anvil on a hard bench (the square end) you're actually forcing the air motor away from the endplate. These motors are made to 'float' so if you're having to force the motor away from the endplate to get it going again - you aren't oiling it enough.
4) the mechanism portion under the nose piece (hammer case) is sealed from the motor and uses grease, there should be a grease fitting either on the hammer case itself or one on the rear of the housing that forces grease up through the anvil and into the nose section. You should grease them as prescribed with the maintenance literature, some tools you can get away with over greasing (it blows out the excess) while others will 'gunk up' and become sluggish.
5) I don't recommend putting any kind of detergent in the tool to clean it out, the vanes are either phenolic or a nylon material. In either case, an oil stripping detergent will decrease the life of the vanes. If the tool is sluggish, flush it with the recommended oil - you can not over oil these motors! The only thing you'll do is make a mess with the excess oil blowing out of the exhaust.
6) don't be afraid to take apart your impact, they are very simple in design and easy to reassemble. However, if you have an aluminum or composite tool - make sure to evenly torque the nose piece (hammer case) back on. This is especially crucial for the aluminum models, it's simple, just lightly torque each screw prior to your final torque (we use a multi-spindle set-up that torques them evenly at the same time during assembly).
1) oil is an impact/air tools best friend (an inline oiler is highly recommended but if you don't have one, make sure to put oil in it every time you use it - like five drops or so)
2) water is an air tool's worse enemy - an inline water separator is recommended as well, they're cheap compared to having to replace a tool
3) when you bang the anvil on a hard bench (the square end) you're actually forcing the air motor away from the endplate. These motors are made to 'float' so if you're having to force the motor away from the endplate to get it going again - you aren't oiling it enough.
4) the mechanism portion under the nose piece (hammer case) is sealed from the motor and uses grease, there should be a grease fitting either on the hammer case itself or one on the rear of the housing that forces grease up through the anvil and into the nose section. You should grease them as prescribed with the maintenance literature, some tools you can get away with over greasing (it blows out the excess) while others will 'gunk up' and become sluggish.
5) I don't recommend putting any kind of detergent in the tool to clean it out, the vanes are either phenolic or a nylon material. In either case, an oil stripping detergent will decrease the life of the vanes. If the tool is sluggish, flush it with the recommended oil - you can not over oil these motors! The only thing you'll do is make a mess with the excess oil blowing out of the exhaust.
6) don't be afraid to take apart your impact, they are very simple in design and easy to reassemble. However, if you have an aluminum or composite tool - make sure to evenly torque the nose piece (hammer case) back on. This is especially crucial for the aluminum models, it's simple, just lightly torque each screw prior to your final torque (we use a multi-spindle set-up that torques them evenly at the same time during assembly).
British Slave
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3) I think I said the banging was a quick fix and to oil it if it freed up.
4) a grease fitting? I have used impacts from 1/4" to spline drives and have never seen a grease fitting. Most big air tools use an inline oiler for the motor, but the hammer mech. has to be opened and cleaned and greased with high impact grease.
All of my impacts except my Snap On have grease fittings.
well i use my snap on and ir guns all day.
i only use pb blaster oil conditioner.
then i only oil every few weeks or so if i rember. then grease the ir 4-5 times a year.
just took my 5 year or so old ir thunder gun apart few months ago. just about as clean on the inside as new.
our shop has some crappy days with water in lines. and not the best filter system.
oh ya that thunder gun gets flushed out 2-3 times a year with 3-4 loads full of brake parts cleaner and run air threw it. then when done pb blaster conditioner it back up.
seen and heard it all. and 1 young kid at work was oiling the hell out of his gun every day. was complaning of slow running and like crap. flushed it out with brake clean and pb blastered it up . told him mabye 1 week oil times. been great since for him.
yes thay are easy to figure out so dont be afraid to rip it apart.
i only use pb blaster oil conditioner.
then i only oil every few weeks or so if i rember. then grease the ir 4-5 times a year.
just took my 5 year or so old ir thunder gun apart few months ago. just about as clean on the inside as new.
our shop has some crappy days with water in lines. and not the best filter system.
oh ya that thunder gun gets flushed out 2-3 times a year with 3-4 loads full of brake parts cleaner and run air threw it. then when done pb blaster conditioner it back up.
seen and heard it all. and 1 young kid at work was oiling the hell out of his gun every day. was complaning of slow running and like crap. flushed it out with brake clean and pb blastered it up . told him mabye 1 week oil times. been great since for him.
yes thay are easy to figure out so dont be afraid to rip it apart.
I usually oil mine every week or every 2 weeks, just a few drops. Then I grease it about every month. We have problems with water in the lines sometimes too so i tend to redo the oiling or oil a little more when we get water in the lines.
British Slave
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In my shop right now I have two CP 1/2" drive and no grease fittings, two CP 3/4" drives and no grease fittings, one IR 3/4" and again no grease fittings, and one IR spline drive with no grease fittings.
I guess I just have bad luck and bought impacts shorted on parts.
I guess I just have bad luck and bought impacts shorted on parts.
Are you looking for a conventional grease fitting? These types usually are the needle style grease fitting which are a flush type fitting.
I have seen needle style grease fittings in impact guns although i have a Craftsman impact gun model #875-188992 and there is no grease fitting on this gun but does say "oil daily" with an arrow pointing at the air fitting.
British Slave
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I'll go along with the oil daily and arrow. On the impacts I own today, the only way to "grease" the hammer unit is to disassemble and apply grease by hand. There is no fitting, convential, needle or otherwise.
But it really doesn't matter, I have never seen a grease fitting on an impact, but that doesn't mean everyone hasn't.
But it really doesn't matter, I have never seen a grease fitting on an impact, but that doesn't mean everyone hasn't.
Not all impacts have grease fittings (cheaper ones don't). There are different models with different features, all of the US made IR tools have grease fittings (and most of the foreign made units do too). I don't know much about CP tools but would assume they have a similar maintenance call out as the IR ones.
I do agree with you 'British Slave' the best way to grease the mechanism is to pull the hammer case, clean, and re-grease.
I do agree with you 'British Slave' the best way to grease the mechanism is to pull the hammer case, clean, and re-grease.
