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Installed Rear end. Lift height with 35s?

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90GMCJim

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After buying a 14 bolt semi float I finally decided on tires.

35x11.5x17
Fallen wild peak.

I did 4.56 gears and was back and fourth on 33s or 35s

I really didn’t want to lift the jimmy but I figured the 35s will look better. I took out the helper spring in the rear. Added a zero rate 1” block.

About to remove the front and rebuild. I’m curious on the minimum lift it will need for 35s?

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One thing to question is whether you will always be able to get that tire size.

It's all been discussed here: https://ck5.com/forums/threads/how-will-my-k5-truck-look-with-xx-tires-on-xx-of-lift.170627/. Bottom line is that results vary with tire brand, wheel offset and vehicle use. Some guys running street only with full-time swaybar claim "no rubbing", while others actually wheeling have smaller tires smashing the fenders. I think there are still tire shops that will test fit stuff for you, but that's just parking lot data. You could drive your rig on obstacles to get a "worst-case" flexing/steering to measure how close the smaller tires are to see how much room is to spare.

Even if you don't plan on "real-wheeling", every town has steep parking lot approaches, you may have to cross a wash-out or who knows what.
 
You'll have to search for more information, but since the 9.5" axle has bigger tubes than the 8.5", you may gain like 1/2" or something just from the axle swap.

I just wanted to add that this isn't the 1980's where you lift and lift until nothing hits, add 100 shocks and the suspension is worthless. You want to plan for a suspension height that rides well and works well, taking into account up-front what kind of driveline mods will be required. Some will say to start with the target tire and work backwards from there.
 
I just dropped off the diff at the powder coater.

I will only drive on the street and that will only be a few times a week. I’m not too worried of light trimming. Even a 1 inch body lift sounds doable.

How much lift can I do in the front without needed to change the front drive shaft?

I also changed all the bushings in the rear leafs. Will do the same to the front.

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90GMCJim said:
How much lift can I do in the front without needed to change the front drive shaft?
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It depends. Consider:
  1. The basic length change for the extra height
  2. The amount of slip needed for the suspension travel you're creating
  3. The angle the C/V joint will be at after the lift and whether or not you'll need to grind the stops
  4. The clearance between the C/V and the crossmember (at full droop)
I would guess a couple of inches would be fine on a stock driveshaft. You can always use a tape measure and high school geometry to estimate #1. 1" driveshaft spacers are available, which helps with #1 and #4. https://ck5.com/forums/threads/how-will-my-k5-truck-look-with-xx-tires-on-xx-of-lift.170627/
 
2" tough country front springs. 2.5" ORD shackle flip rear. These are 35x12.50r17 Atxs on steel 17x9 wheels. I think 4.5" backspacing. 14B/D60 which should net me about 1" more over half ton axles like yourself.

Axle is moved forward 1.5" with ORDs offset plates. NOT an EZ inch but the 1/4" thick offset plates they sell.

I would venture to say you might still have the tire grab the rear of the front fender if you have not moved the axle forward at all. Even with the 11.5 tire driving on the street.

I personally think a fang cut looks better than chopping the rear of the fender. Which is what i did when I had it at this stage.

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90GMCJim said:
Right now as it sits I have stock rear springs with a 1/4 plate from ORD. New bushings and bolts.

It’s a 14 bolt semi float. View attachment 510221
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Your initial post says you used an EZ inch but also after subtracting the overload you probably have not gained much lift over stock. I think with 2" front springs you might end up a bit high in the front compared to the back.
 
CriticalAction said:
Your initial post says you used an EZ inch but also after subtracting the overload you probably have not gained much lift over stock. I think with 2" front springs you might end up a bit high in the front compared to the back.
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I first removed the overload spring and added the zero rate 1" block in the stock location. I have since then removed that and added a 1/4 plate from ORD. Planning on using that 1" zero rate up front to possibly move axle foward. i was hoping to find a way to use that 1" zero rate up front with somehow going up another 1" for a total of 2" lift up front to see if that clears first.

From the look of it the minimum front springs are 2" to 2.5" lift. I did find someone 1.5 hours away selling skyjacker 2.5 springs. Im tempted to buy those since ill save around 2-300 dollars.

I still need to order the 8 lug caliper brackets. Im going with lugNut 4x4 front calipers and rotors. Its a little under $400 for everything.
 
Ok i understand. Based off what you have said i still think you will end up higher in the front with a zero rate or 2" springs. At this point I would maybe suggest a zero rate in the front AND back. In the front i would use it to move the axle forward.

And then maybe do a 1" body lift to net you more clearance. So in total you will have effectively a 2" lift at the end.
 
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