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Installing a body lift with rust

The1980BEAST

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I know the common sense thing of PB the !#$% out of them but what if a bolt snaps.. am I SOL? My floors have rusty holes in them, I'm replacing the drivers side and fiberglassing the passenger side as its not as bad.

Just need the nitty gritty on when the Body lifts get rough.


P.S. (Sorry if I'm asking about something thats been brought up countless times, its just that I suck at searching on this site. Everytime I search I get a bunch of random posts that have nothing to do with what I want.)

P.S.S. ( Please dont just say body lifts suck, or dont do a body lift, I already have it and I know the pro's and con's and decided this would be a cheaper way to get the ultimate ride height I would like)
 
expect the captured nuts on the cab to spin.. thus you'll be hacking temp holes in the floor... if you've got lots of implements of destruction and burning, your good...

do one side at a time.. loosen, chop, etc all of em. pull one side, install, leave loose. do other side...

real handy to have some scrap steel and a welder around... try to salvage the factory cup washers, expect to replace everything else, including mounts.. I like the polys...

and tho I'm not a fan of 3' s, I run a 1", and would run a 2"...
 
I guestamated where the bolts were & drilled a hole down thru the floor big enough for the tip of my propane torch to fit in & heated the bejesus out of them.
They all came out without the captured nut spinning & this was on a rust belt 84 K30.
They have loctite on them from the factory so ya need heat anyhow
or you will just spin the captured nut and have a hech of a time removing them.
Or if your floor is really bad you can just cut it open above the body bolts & heat them that way.
 
If it's that rusty why not not just do a little trimming? Or is the body lift for another purpose?
 
i just helped a buddy do a 3" body on his 8" spring truck and we already sawzalled most the wheel well out to clear his 44s and still flex some
 
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