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installing dual batteries

Since I have never used one, I am not certain, but I believe that it uses a switch to signal the relay to combine the batteries. This means during the months that you don't need the boost, you can leave the switch off, but when you need it, a quick flip of a switch will activate the feature. Not sure on the setup though, since I have never done those setups before.

It could be setup to just receive a signal when you turn the key, or you could setup a switch to send a power signal to activate the combine. That is the way I understand them.
 
that is about how i understood it. i'll need to get a little more info on the matter.
 
You can use the contact us link on their page, and they will provide you with much more information. Including wiring diagrams that will show how to do it. I believe it is a similiar system to what RootBreaker is describing, with the added advantage of preventing a battery system drain from a bad battery.
 
ciffer said:
i'll have to look at separators. i don't have a winch, aside from the stock am/fm radio, i have no audio video system. the only draw i am really worried about is getting my truck started in -30F air temp in the winter.
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Have you though about installing a block heater? Those help out a ton on those cold nights. Dual batteries are nice, but block heaters work damn good.
 
troutbum_mt said:
Have you though about installing a block heater? Those help out a ton on those cold nights. Dual batteries are nice, but block heaters work damn good.
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Despite the benefits of a block heater, the cold affects more than just the engine. When batteries get that cold, they don't produce the same amperage that a warmer battery would. Batteries dislike the cold, it causes a slow down in the chemical reaction, causing a slower starter spin. This is what he is trying to help, not really trying to help his engine start easier, but to make it so the batteries can handle the load that is present when it is very cold.
 
lectric80 said:
Despite the benefits of a block heater, the cold affects more than just the engine. When batteries get that cold, they don't produce the same amperage that a warmer battery would. Batteries dislike the cold, it causes a slow down in the chemical reaction, causing a slower starter spin. This is what he is trying to help, not really trying to help his engine start easier, but to make it so the batteries can handle the load that is present when it is very cold.
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Making it easier for the engine to start requires less draw from the batteries. Even with dual batteries I still run a block heater for the chilly days :wink1: The OP was concerned with his vehicle starting when it is -30 or more out, a $23 block heater is a very wise investment even with dual batteries IMO.
 
While block heaters might help a little not everyone is able to park where there is an electric hook-up.
 
If it is cold enough, you can't really have enough battery to start. When I was in Houghton, we would see stuff like -30F and even with a running vehicle jumpstarting them, some cars would not turn over. An old trick was to keep one of those tiny disposable charcoal grills in the trunk. If the car won't start, you light it and put it under the engine.

Somebody needs to be the guinea pig and try a system that offers SERIES batteries for starting (no fair swapping to a 24V military starter). 4x the power = :D
 
Why not just run the dual batts without an isolator? My truck (camper special) has duals from factory without isolator and it has worked fine. You don't need an isolator but they are nice to have. If one battery is stronger than the other one they will reach an equilibrium between the two, still plenty of starting power.

If you think you need duals to start a vehicle in -30F come on up and i will show you a single batt. starting engines that sit outside in -45C (no blockheaters)!!

Block heaters are a godsend up here though.

Battery blankets will help prevent the batts from freezing up too.
 
Blue85 said:
If it is cold enough, you can't really have enough battery to start. When I was in Houghton, we would see stuff like -30F and even with a running vehicle jumpstarting them, some cars would not turn over. An old trick was to keep one of those tiny disposable charcoal grills in the trunk. If the car won't start, you light it and put it under the engine.

Somebody needs to be the guinea pig and try a system that offers SERIES batteries for starting (no fair swapping to a 24V military starter). 4x the power = :D
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Look no further than highway tractors (semi's).

Many of them have a 12/24V isolator/switch. Starters run on 24V while the rest of the truck runs on 12V.
 
BILTIT said:
Battery blankets will help prevent the batts from freezing up too.
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Our 1979 K20 that was to go to AK for pipe line duty had block heater and battery blanket. Looked like this one
yhst-83673118800219_2016_11342659


http://justforjeeps.com/batteryblanket.html

It was nice to have an easy start warm block and just unplug and go.
 
i have a block warmer, and use it when i at home, problem is that most other places have no where to plug in, work, ice fishing etc.

i never failed to start last winter with a single battery, but on really cold nights the engine cranked pretty slow. i figure a second battery would be good insurance, and a good way to keep from using starting fluid.
 
Yup, extra battery, battery blanket, good starter, good condition cables, oil viscosity, they all add up to help with starting.

What weight of oil you running? Synthetic makes a big difference in the cold, aswell as a lighter weight oil.
 
When you get into real cold you will need to worry about the carb freezing up while driving too.

Winterfronts are a must.
 
i am using 5w30 conventional oil, i am going to put in either 5w30 or 0w30 synthetic this winter. i would run synthetic all the time but engine burn some oil, and toping off all year at $4-5 per quart would get expensive.

my engine is throttle-body-injection, i don't know if those freeze up.

-30F would not be a common temp for me to deal with, it is about the coldest i ever see at night.

what is a winter front?
 
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A winterfront up here is a big piece of cardboard in front of the rad/behind the grille, haha. It blocks some airflow through the rad to prevent heat loss from the motor. Without a winter front the engine would never get up to operating temp, too much cold air going through the rad. Usually it will have a small (4-5'' diameter) hole cut in it to allow some airflow when not moving.

Proper made-to-fit winterfronts can be purchased which are more appealing.

Here is a pic of my truck before the lift, etc with a proper winterfront on.

http://www.putfile.com/pic/4918316

A pic with lift/tires and winterfront removed.

http://www.putfile.com/pic/6443581
 
someone had told me that those can cause fan damage, is that only the case if the cardboard etc. is inside of the radiator, near the fan?
 
BILTIT said:
Look no further than highway tractors (semi's).

Many of them have a 12/24V isolator/switch. Starters run on 24V while the rest of the truck runs on 12V.
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But is that a 12V starter or a 24V starter?
 
BILTIT said:
If you think you need duals to start a vehicle in -30F come on up and i will show you a single batt. starting engines that sit outside in -45C (no blockheaters)!!
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Yeah, I never really figured out why some would start and some wouldn't, beyond the obvious things like a good battery - like one Taurus would fire right up and another wouldn't crank at all. Manual transmissions and smaller engines seem to help. Diesels are the worst because of the high compression and the requirement of a hot combustion chamber. Good luck if you get some bad glow plugs.
 
24v cranking systems are exceptionally common in boats.. the item in question is called a series/parallel switch, generally not cheap... pretty common with big diesels, I've installed dozens.. batteries are in parallel, hit the switch, they go series..

The combiners mentioned earlier are all based on the ACR tech I've espoused in here for years from BlueSea, they are the originators of the tech.. far superior to parallel or isolator systems imo...
 
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