BILTIT
1/2 ton status
Only if the cardboard is inside near the fan which is the wrong place. In needs to be in front of the rad.
CK5
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installing dual batteries
- Thread starter ciffer
- Start date
Only if the cardboard is inside near the fan which is the wrong place. In needs to be in front of the rad.
BILTIT
1/2 ton status
24V starter.
lectric80
3/4 ton status
I knew you would jump in here at some point.
troutbum_mt
1/2 ton status
Is something like this what you are talking about?
http://bluesea.com/productline/overview/329
If so, they don't have prices listed. Any idea about how much they run? I am totally in the market for something like that and just didn't know it
http://bluesea.com/category/2/productline/overview/389
like $135 to $160... they've REALLY gone up in price the last couple years, I used to get em for under 100....
built in paralleling capability, good to 450 amps...
like $135 to $160... they've REALLY gone up in price the last couple years, I used to get em for under 100....
built in paralleling capability, good to 450 amps...
ciffer
1/2 ton status
i ordered and have received a sure power seperator. the wiring is pretty straight forward. however, i am not sure what i should use for wires running from the battery positives to the seperator. according to the directions included with the seperator, i should use 4 gauge wire. no problem there, but what should i use for fusing? i figure i should have each wire fused at the battery.
what should i use for amp rating on the fuses, what type of fuse block should i use, would a fusable link work better?
what should i use for amp rating on the fuses, what type of fuse block should i use, would a fusable link work better?
lectric80
3/4 ton status
I do not believe you will want any type of fuse between the batteries and the separator. They would constantly be blowing out, because of the loads seen there. Your electrical system for the vehicle will provide the fusing and fusible links to protect the systems, there is no need to protect the separator. Someone correct me if I am wrong here.
ciffer
1/2 ton status
what i am concerned about is that i am adding wiring from both batteries that was not originally on the vehicle. if i run 4awg wire from the battery to the separator without a fuse, and something was to happen to the wire, or the separator, or anything else, there would be nothing to break the circuit.
lectric80
3/4 ton status
Yes, but from the separator doesn't it run down to the starter lug? If so then it wouldn't matter as long as you don't run the cables near any pulleys or other moving parts. The failure is still going to be isolated from harming any vehicle systems by the original fuses and fusible links. It is pretty unlikely that you could have a fuse large enough to handle the current running through that separator.
ciffer
1/2 ton status
a cable runs from the main battery's positive to a post on the separator, and a cable runs from the auxilary battery's positive to a different post on the serarator. the separator parallels the batteries when a switch is thrown. no cables runs directly from the separator to the starter.
lectric80
3/4 ton status
Ok, so in that setup, the separator is a combiner when you throw the switch, but you won't want a fuse between the batteries and the separator because of the amperage. The trucks electrical will still be isolated by the fusible links after the starter, that currently protect the truck.
Adding fuses or other protection as you are thinking of is adding another failure point, and I don't recommend it. I would say take some time and see what others on the board say (cough***ryoken***cough) then if I am wrong do as they recommend. My guess would be that they will say the same thing.
Adding fuses or other protection as you are thinking of is adding another failure point, and I don't recommend it. I would say take some time and see what others on the board say (cough***ryoken***cough) then if I am wrong do as they recommend. My guess would be that they will say the same thing.
