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Intake sealing woes...

broncoman6524

broncoman6524

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So ive tried 3 times to get my intake to seal..with no avail. I get the runners and coolant to seal, but on the back of the block i cant seem to get it to not leak.

I have tried just the rubber gaskets, gaskets and rtv, and tried just rtv twice. For the rtv i have ran about 1/8inch bead with the orange.

Could i just not be using a thick enough bead? Or should i try the black...

When its installed "dry" there is no gap on the back of the block, but if i add the gaskets there is a gap large enough to put a razor blade in and move it up and down.

Someone suggested trying the "thin" set of gaskets...ive been using whatever the standard autozone/felpro gaskets are.

Any body got any tips, or special trick? maybe a "Chris your an idiot solution.":D

Thanks gents:bow: Its a gm 290hp 350 wiht an edelbrock air-gap performer intake.
 
no end gaskets... the block or heads have probably been milled..

I like the ultra black... run yourself a pretty big bead, ain't gonna hurt anything, just keep it more to the outside edge... 1/8 is WAY small.. you want it thicker than a pencil, maybe 3/8 or so...

a little black around the water jackets too..
 
Echo ... echo ...

anyway, 4x4HIGH has told me exactly what Ryoken said, 3/8 bead on the ends and use the side gaskets. 'Course, I *still* managed to screw it up and have the same leak out the back end ... least it BETTER be the intake manifold, 'cuz if it's the heads I'm gonna be PISSED at the idiot who assembled my engine.

Notably, that would be me :doah:

-- A
 
I always use "right stuff" It always works for me. It cost like $14 and is in cheese whiz type of can. I buy it at kragen. I use it all the time to make gaskets and such. I promise you wont regret using it. Put a thgick @$$ bead on the front and rear of block and make sure you run it over the intake tabs. It drys to a rubber type of material. Its the best thing since sliced bread IMO.
 
I dont like using the rubbers...haha sig there.

I run my rtv up the heads surround the water ports, then put the gastket down, run the beads across and repeat, circle the water ports again.

Im off wednesday and thursday soo ill pull it all apart again and use a big ass bead. im gettin pretty quick at this...like 2hours from pullin into the shop and then leaving, (minus lettin git sit overnight)

Should i stay witht he red or use black?
 
Well, if the heads or block have been milled, it can change your end gap, making gaskets not a good choice.. not that I run them anyway...

as far as permetex, I really prefer the ultra black out of their whole line, by far... I've heard the right stuff is good too, but we don't stock it so I haven't used it yet...

One big bead across the front and back, make sure you go up the head surface a bit with it, then just drag a thin bead around the jackets.. You don't need much there.. But you want height on your end beads...
 
alright...ill try this and hope that it works!

Thanks guys. I knew it was sometihgn like that.

And i bought the motor brand new out ofhte wrapper like 6months ago, and the intake is like2months old...so unless thats a factory thing i dont think thats been done.
 
Your not an idiot, this is a classic SBC (and SBF, and probably more) problem. I found that one out the hard way too. You really need a LOT more RTV than you would think. You have to fill a pretty big gap and the gaskets (as everybody has already said) are worthless.
 
I'm going to be the other side, I have always used the rubber gaskets and have never had a problem, however I put a big glob of RTV in the corner where the heads meet the block and the rest of the rubber gets no RTV I always try and use the ones that have the little nob's that stick into the block.
 
I have heard that if you can get two sets of the cork gaskets and stack them it can work. You need gasket sealer (not RTV) on both sides and in between them though.
 
BGKYK5 said:
I have heard that if you can get two sets of the cork gaskets and stack them it can work. You need gasket sealer (not RTV) on both sides and in between them though.
Click to expand...

Uhh, cork *intake manifold* gaskets? Valve cover gaskets, sure ... but intake?

-- A
 
dremu said:
Uhh, cork *intake manifold* gaskets? Valve cover gaskets, sure ... but intake?

-- A
Click to expand...

Yep, there are rubber and also cork end seals for chevy intakes and i throw them all away and use a 3/8" bead of ultra black RTV and forget about leaks forever.
 
I wouldn't be the guy that picked cork for that application either. I think it is more prevelent on SBFs than SBCs.
 
BGKYK5 said:
I have heard that if you can get two sets of the cork gaskets and stack them it can work. You need gasket sealer (not RTV) on both sides and in between them though.
Click to expand...

Boy, thats scary, on multiple fronts... Run across milled parts, with a tight gap and that'll have those water jackets leaking immediately, a far worse failure than just the back blowing out...

I do advocate and use sealer type products quite often, high tack, #300 permetex, Perfect Seal (merc stuff, awesome) but I rarely use silicone.. Intakes being one of the few.. And silicone on a gasket is usually not a great thing imo, thats a job for sealers and adhesives most of the time...... my .02 :D
 
4X4HIGH said:
Yep, there are rubber and also cork end seals for chevy intakes and i throw them all away and use a 3/8" bead of ultra black RTV and forget about leaks forever.
Click to expand...

Oh, duh, the end gaskets. I thought he meant cork for the SIDE gaskets :eek:

-- A
 
X2 on "the right stuff." One of the great things obout it is that you can re-torque whatever surface you have sealed and the sealant will still work fine.
 
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