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Interior carpet alternatives?

Eh, we will see where my project goes from here. Suddenly was notified that I may have a project at work that will keep my free time down for the next few weeks, which would suck.

I’ve seen M1009s with the same interior mine has, and just did a quick search online and see images of some as well. Horrible reddish-colored carpet with stainless-looking door sill guards. Also had a friend tell me he remembered the carpets holding moisture during his time in the military. So I’m guessing that at least some M1009s had interior carpet.

Now that the floor is considered done, with a couple spots I’m keeping an eye on, it’s time to decide what to do for a mat, as I posted elsewhere lately. I do admit that in driving around today, for the first time since I began my floor project, I was aware of how crazy loud it is inside. And perhaps I need to consider sound insulating mats and probably something under the hood as well. I never actually took the time to listen before but it’s loud. Not so much under throttle, but when I’m just cruising along and barely feathering the pedal, that’s when it se me loudest. Exhaust is about two years/300 Miles old, true duals with pretty average-looking (probably cheap) mufflers, exiting in 90 degree pipes turned down just before the rear axle. I bet that plays a role in the noise as well.
 
My 72 K5 sounded like I was driving a 55 gallon drum down the road after I stripped all the carpeting and jute padding out,which had become a sponge,and rotted the floors...

I put bubble wrap under new indoor outdoor carpeting in it that had a thin foam backing on it,that killed a lot of the noise..the rear floor was letting a lot of gear noise from the rear diff and T-case and tires come right thru until I covered it with the same stuff..

The bubble wrap turned out not to be a good idea--it did a good job of killing noise and insulating,the truck heated up better in winter and was cooler in summer,but it let condensation sweat form under it and it made the undercoating I put on the "new" floor panels peel and surface rust in 2 years again..I'm not so sure stock carpet and jute pads are any better though..
 
In the blazer (granted it doesn't look great) I have rubber bed mat everywhere. One piece for the cargo, one piece for the rear passenger foot area, one piece for each front foot area, and one piece down the trans hump. Not the prettiest thing and it's got screws holding it down everywhere, but it was cheap for two 8' bed mats and works better than nothing.

Seriously look into that 3M Dirtstop stuff. I might just get another mat and throw it on top of what I've got now.
 
GoGoGirl said:
I never actually took the time to listen before but it’s loud. Not so much under throttle, but when I’m just cruising along and barely feathering the pedal, that’s when it se me loudest. Exhaust is about two years/300 Miles old, true duals with pretty average-looking (probably cheap) mufflers, exiting in 90 degree pipes turned down just before the rear axle. I bet that plays a role in the noise as well.
Click to expand...
If you can get the exhaust exits out from under your truck it will make a huge difference.
 
Raptor liner sprayed on the entire inside of the tub with an acc rubber floor mat. Works wonders.
 
Update as it's relative to the thread and what I posted earlier. My front two footwell areas are done, using bedliner on top of rubberized stuff. Working on the rear floors now. One portion at a time so I can check progress before I go on.

In the front, I went with Weathertech semi-universal-fit mats I found at Costco for $29.99. Have yet to go for a ride and see if they help quiet at all.

In the back I have the original maroon rubber mat that I am keeping there for history's sake.

Have to decide what to do about quieting the exhaust and making the pipe location legal. I'd love to buy an exhaust kit somewhere and do it myself, but I'm not sure if the bends will be correct. Not that I can weld, I mean to bolt it up and whatnot myself. Not a kit that needs welding.

I'm tired, can't write well tonight!
 
pulled out all the insulation today and found what appears to be a rubber membrane stuck to the floor in the front footwells.

Also found some rust hiding behind the carpet on the lower rear kick panels :(
 
bassackwards said:
pulled out all the insulation today and found what appears to be a rubber membrane stuck to the floor in the front footwells.

Also found some rust hiding behind the carpet on the lower rear kick panels :(
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Yup, I found the same. Mine had 6" x 10" rust holes.
The rubber stuff didn't want to come out, so it stayed. I didn't have any rust under it, from what I saw.
 
I was hoping to us a bedliner type product but that membrane will not easily come out. It was stuck down pretty good.
 
bassackwards said:
I was hoping to us a bedliner type product but that membrane will not easily come out. It was stuck down pretty good.
Click to expand...

Mine was baked in there after 34 years as well. Had to score it with a blade and then pry it out with a putty knife. Came out in sheets, both big and little.
 
GoGoGirl said:
Mine was baked in there after 34 years as well. Had to score it with a blade and then pry it out with a putty knife. Came out in sheets, both big and little.
Click to expand...
The stuff in mine is not cooked, brittle. It's stretchy, with some of the adhesive still very soft, sorta gooey. I didn't find anything to get the adhesive off, so I moved on, since mine is not going to be restored.
 
Heat gun works to loosen that tar like adhesive,but its a tough job scraping it all off,then you'll have residue left behind,that may prove tough to get rid of too--if it can be dissolved with a solvent like laquer thinner or paint remover,that might work better..

One of the K5's I had,the previous owner decided to trowel a layer of roof coating tar all over the front floors,all the way to the step up to the rear bed floor...

It took me a few days to strip all that crud off,I started off using a scraper made from an old shovel,then a putty knife--and getting it off ME was quite an ordeal too,and I had to throw all the clothes away I wore doing that job...

Looking back ,I should have just put another layer of sheet metal right over it,but I wanted to weld and braze it in,and that stuff burns like napalm once it is lit..stunk like a tar pit too!..whoever did it didn't bother to secure the metal patches over the rot holes too,they just laid it on a thick bed of roofing tar around the edges of the rot holes and "glued" it in place...:surepal:..
I prefer fixing up a vehicle that's rotted ,but has yet to be molested,if I have to do floor rust repairs..if someone else has been there already,it usually makes for a lot more work..
 
This is not tar, it is some type of water barrier membrane that is in a sheet and bonded very well.
 
I know the stuff your talking about,its similar to that peel & stick ice shield they put under roof shingles on houses,only thicker and stickier..
That stuff sucks to remove too..I had to remove some off trucks at the junkyard to get to the cab mount bolts,I found in frigid winter cold it gets brittle,cracks,and doesn't seem to stay bonded well,not like it does in warmer weather..that made it come off in chunks..
 
We are a long ways from frigid weather down here so I may just have to leave it for now.

I could line everything else then put down some mats or something removable
 
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