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is $200 to much for a 44/14bolt combo

highrider88

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i found a guy with a 76 sub with a dana 44 and 14bolt for sale and he wants 200 for the axles the front is full time so id have to put hubs on and the rear had new drums shoes seals and springs put in 8 months ago and they are 4.10 ratio? Also is this a direct bolt in for my 85 k5 any input would be great thank you
 
From a suburban? Yeah they'll bolt right in. And I got just the rear for $200 (with 4.10's as well)... so sure... good deal.
 
Good price. Good deal. D44 will have flat top knuckles. And yes, both will bolt right in.
 
thank you all for the input im sure ill be on here to ask many more questions. so far my build consits of a 355 sb th400 241 and now as soon as i get the 44/14 combo the drivetrain will be complete should be stout enough for 35s and a daily driver :D
 
DEfently a good deal. The same combo locally goes for about $500. It will be a straight forward swap too.
 
Good price. Good deal. D44 will have flat top knuckles. And yes, both will bolt right in.

Good deal but i'm fairly certain the D44 wont have a flat top knuckle. I once had a bone stock (when i got it) 76 blazer with a D44 and it did not have a flat top knuckle. I think the flat top knuckle stopped about 1974.
 
Good deal but i'm fairly certain the D44 wont have a flat top knuckle. I once had a bone stock (when i got it) 76 blazer with a D44 and it did not have a flat top knuckle. I think the flat top knuckle stopped about 1974.
Flat tops are part of the 1st design axles which ran up to '77.

2nd designs had the knuckles you're thinking of and they ran clear up to '91.

Another good way to determine which design axle you have is to measure the diameter of the tubes. 1st will have 2.75" and 2nds will have 3" tubes.

1st designs steering stabilizer mounts on the tubes are clear over by the driver side knuckle and the 2nd design mounts are in the very middle of the whole housing. The mount for the stabilizer will see a hole in the very middle of the tie rod on the 1st design where the 2nd design has the hole on the driver side, by the TRE.
 
is there a big concern about flat top knuckles im not doing a crossover steering or anything just stock steering and im going to mount dual stabilizers on it i do believe unless theres a better option
 
Flat tops are part of the 1st design axles which ran up to '77.

2nd designs had the knuckles you're thinking of and they ran clear up to '91.

Another good way to determine which design axle you have is to measure the diameter of the tubes. 1st will have 2.75" and 2nds will have 3" tubes.

1st designs steering stabilizer mounts on the tubes are clear over by the driver side knuckle and the 2nd design mounts are in the very middle of the whole housing. The mount for the stabilizer will see a hole in the very middle of the tie rod on the 1st design where the 2nd design has the hole on the driver side, by the TRE.

Hmm, so based on what you're saying since my D44 had 3" axle tubes and the stabilizer mount on the housing was near the middle i had a 2nd design housing BUT it did not have flat top knuckles (the knuckles were original on this axle) so according to you i "should" have had flat top knuckles since the axle was a 1976 axle.

I have always read that if the axle had external hubs then it also had flat top knuckles but when the internal hubs came out there were no more flat top knuckles.
 
the way i read it, he was sayin if you had 3'' tubes & tab in the middle it didn't have flat tops!?! i have a d44 axle w/flat tops & the original cast in arm that sticks out for the crossover to bolt to seems puny/tiny/little!
 
that was my other question it has the steel plates on the front axle can u just buy a set of hubs and replace that stuff or is there more to it then just that
 
the way i read it, he was sayin if you had 3'' tubes & tab in the middle it didn't have flat tops!?! i have a d44 axle w/flat tops & the original cast in arm that sticks out for the crossover to bolt to seems puny/tiny/little!

Flat tops are part of the 1st design axles which ran up to '77

According to this statement i should have had flat tops since my axle was a 1976 but mine did not and it was 100% original, everything else Wes said matched though.
 
that was my other question it has the steel plates on the front axle can u just buy a set of hubs and replace that stuff or is there more to it then just that

You're talking about drive flanges i think and in order to be able to run a selectable hub in the "free" mode you would have to install a part time kit in the 203 or keep the hubs locked.
 
i have a 241 tranfer case and yea its the flanges is it a simple bolton to replace them with manual hubs?
 
According to this statement i should have had flat tops since my axle was a 1976 but mine did not and it was 100% original, everything else Wes said matched though.
Yep, you should have had flat tops. I'm also wondering what month your truck came out? Much like the '84 and '85 trucks where they had a transition year, they sort of mixed and matched new with old. Kind of like some '84s running an '85 grille, etc.
I'm beginning to think if your rig was near the end of '76, it could have had transitional parts under it.

Make sense?
 
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