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Is it OK for the wheels not to rest on the hubs?

Joe Blaze

Joe Blaze

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I put new rims on my '71 Blazer, and I noticed the rims dont center snug around the hub. Is it OK that the all the weight is carried by the wheel studs? I noticed my jeep wrangler has the same condition. Would it make a difference, and could there be problems with the weight of the car not actually resting on the center space of the rims?

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do they make a thin spacer that would take up the space between the rim and the hub?
 
Most wheels are "lug-centric" so you're worrying about something that is perfectly normal. There are vehicles that have "hub-centric" rims, but it's a whole lot less common.
 
I think as long as you use the acorn/self centering style rims and lugnuts your ok.
Some wheels use shank style lugnuts that go through the rim to center the wheel, and the hub is not in contact with the wheel.
If it has a centering style lugnut/rim combo it should be ok.
 
Like stated before, if you have the correct lug nut then the wheel will center.
I'm not sure if they make them for blazer, but a lot of aftermarket wheels use hub centric rings to center the wheel on the hub. If it drives and doesn't vibrate then you'll be fine.
 
I don't like it... but I've lost a wheel at highway speeds (not for this reason but still...)

I don't understand, why is there such a large gap? small amount of clearance sure, but that's a pretty big difference!
 
76zimmer said:
I think as long as you use the acorn/self centering style rims and lugnuts your ok.
Some wheels use shank style lugnuts that go through the rim to center the wheel, and the hub is not in contact with the wheel.
If it has a centering style lugnut/rim combo it should be ok.
Click to expand...

My old 6 lugs were like that.... PITA for sure, I hate shanked lugnuts. Try getting a set of 40" TSL's JUST right to get the lugnuts on when off road (let alone in the damn driveway) :haha:
 
Technically the weight is carried by the friction between the hub and the back of the wheel. The studs are in tension only.
 
yes *2 on the surface friction statement and NONE of the weight is ever on the hub otherwise all wheels would wobble around because you cant make the hole that tight (it would be waaay too hard to push on.) The ones that are specific for the car are tighter just to help you line up the holes.:waytogo:
 
It was pointed out to me in another forum that my studs might not be long enough. Yeah, yeah, insert joke here. What do you guys think? i have the cone shaped bolt hole seat, as well as conical wheel nuts.

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Would it be a difficult project to change the studs to longer ones? Do they make longer 7/16 x 20 studs with the correct spline pattern? If so, is there an online source that has quality ones that won't strip out?
 
first look i'd say those are too short...
are those alum rims? i know they have a thicker center section than steels so that might be the issue...
 
they look too short. a fastener must be engauged at least the thread depth of the diameter of itself.

So, a 1/2" stud needs to have the nut at least 1/2" thread enguagment.
 
The maximum strength of a bolted joint, from two like materials, is 1.5X the diameter of the bolt...

anything beyond this is pointless (remember like materials) and anything less than this will result in thread failure first (or a weaker joint)
 
Those look to me like they require the shanked lug nuts... so the lugnut would actually extend down into the hole and have much more thread engagement before the seat of the lugnut bottomed out on the rim. I have the old ones that were on my 1/2 tons if you want them.
 
Wrong lug nuts. It takes a flat sided nut with a washer and a shank that extends into the hole. ( as in American Racing Wheels)
 
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