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Is there a bottle of magic stuff that can fix my transmission?

divorced

divorced

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Edit: Updated, post #25

TH350 - When the transmission is cold I put the shifter in gear but it doesn't go into gear. If I rev the engine just a bit it will go into gear and lock in solid and shifts fine. After the transmission is warm it goes into gear with no problems. What can cause this? Is there an easy fix?
 
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There sure is it's connected to a torch :grin: . Just kidding sounds like the clutches are slipping... I had one years ago that did that same thing every morning... I had to let mine warm up for a few minutes before it would move..But like you said after I got it going and drove about 3 miles it would be fine the rest of the day..

Now for the bad news... I was able to drive it like that for about a month before it finally quit... Then it had to be rebuilt and it was like new again...

I have heard about people putting saw dust in it to make it work long enough for them to sell it but I wouldn't reccomend that :screwy: ..
 
I have heard about people putting saw dust in it to make it work long enough for them to sell it but I wouldn't reccomend that :screwy: ..[/QUOTE]

That was in an episode of Andy Griffith. Barney bought a used car from a little old lady :haha: :rotfl:
 
I'm not sure when the filter/fluid was last changed; I bought the truck used about 6 months ago and haven't changed it. It's in my '72 C10. When I rev it some it will "jump" into gear and bark the tires a bit.

I'll start with the fluid/filter change, and then try a can of the TransX if the filter/fluid change doesn't help. I'm trying to sell the truck, and have included this problem in the advertisement, but it would be nice if it worked right when I sell it.
 
Some BG stuff I recently used helped with converter shudder quite a bit. I have a 700, so I gotta shell out $250 for a lock up converter for it... :frown1:
 
I had a TH350 --did the same thing...

The TH350 in my 72 K5 I had years ago would not go into "drive" first thing in the morning after sitting overnight..took 5 minites or more,longer in cold weather...I tried every additive they had out at the time,tranny filter and fluid changes,new modulator,etc..nothing helped!....after it finally shifted into drive,I could drive it hundreds of miles without a problem,it shifted nice,no slippage,etc...reverse worked instantly!- :screwy: -I could back out of my parking space and into the street--then I'd have to PUSH it off to the roadside and wait several minites--as soon as my temparature gauge read normal,I'd feel the tranny lurch into drive,and off I could go...

I had several tranny shops check it out,one said the "lip seal" on the forward clutch was hard and brittle,another guy said he thought it might be the valve body,since I drove it 2 years that way and hadn't smoked the tranny yet...I even put a bottle of "Lestoil" in it as an old time tranny guy suggested(I had my doubts,but did it anyway!--by this time I nearly lost my job from being late every day because of this tranny!--and I no longer cared if it finished it off!)....nothing changed!

I eventually bought everything to convert it to an SM465,and never had that problem again!--I did go thru 3 -12" clutches the first month before I got one with a good pressure plate--2 of the "3 fingered" ones failed in less than 3 weeks!--ended up with a diaphram type....drove it 6 years without any trouble after that...never did an "autopsy" on the TH350--some guy wanted it,so I gave it to him--its probably still in his plow truck doing the same thing! :crazy:
 
forgot!!

I'd try some LUCAS Transmission Treatment in it--they didn't have that stuff when my TH350 was ailing...I've seen that stuff work miracles in a few clunkers at my friends shop..all the other stuff like "Trans Medic",or "Stop Slip" are mostly just kerosene and brake fluid type stuff that swells up hard leaky seals--I havent seen any miracles worked with that stuff... :crazy:
 
If you wanted to keep it: Drain all of the fluid and put Type F in it. If this doesn't work, put a pint/quart of brake fluid in it.

If you simply want rid of it: Dump a quart of brake fluid in it.
 
go with the lucas trans fix its a good product throw 2 bottles in there
 
What exactly is in the Lucas Trans treatment? I'm guessing it is likely overpriced brake fluid.....similar to "Engine-flush" products that are overpriced Kerosene......similar to B&M Trick Shift that is overpriced Type F-Fluid, etc.
 
so what exactly does adding brake fluid to the tranny do? is it bad for it? also what is so special about running type f tranny fluid?
 
I've seen TransX do some amazing stuff for old tired automatic trans. I actually run a can with each filter/fluid chnge I do. Good stuff. :grin:
 
bigbadchev84 said:
so what exactly does adding brake fluid to the tranny do? is it bad for it? also what is so special about running type f tranny fluid?
Click to expand...

My personal experience with Type F & Brake Fluid:

Brake Fluid: It often makes various seals "swell up" and function again. I wouldn't use it in a perfectly good transmission.......duh, no need to. However I wouldn't hestitate to use it in a transmission that is showing significant signs of failing.....the seals and such will be replaced anyway, during the overhaul that it will eventually need.

I used this "trick" on a GM TH350 (no reverse when cold), a Chrysler 727 (reverse slipped when cold), and observed it to work on a Ford C-4 trans on a buddy's vehicle (reverse was gone).

Type F: Type F fluid is not as slippery as Dexron/Mercon. Firmer shifts are the result of this. Check around and see what most high performance transmission companies recommend for fluid in their hi-po products. Not all, but many of them recommend Type F. My wife’s AL4D in her ‘96 Ranger 4x4 began slipping (pretty bad) one year ago. I pumped the fluid out through the trans cooler lines, one gallon at a time–then adding four quarts of Type F, until all 12 or so quarts were replaced. She drove it to work this morning......a year later....still with the Type F in the trans. Is it going to last forever? Absolutley not.....but it has had 12,000-15,000 miles put on it since the change to Type F......and it observed to be nearly ready to die before it was put in. The C-6 in my off-road truck lives in a horrid environment....42's, with a 205 T-case and pathetic 4.10 gears. I run Type F in it as well.

I am not an ASE certified trans guy, and I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn last night. I am merely reporting my observations with this "quick fix."

Roy
 
i would start with a bottle of JACK D this might help you realize that you are going to need a new trany soon but just like some others say new fluids and filter and some Lucais might buy you some time good luck :D
 
Lucas oil is a wonderfull thing. Its as close to a magic fluid as it gets.

I got a full two years of extra life from my dodge dakotas transmission because of 2 bottles of that stuff.

I have used it on two other cars and had great luck with it.

Don't get me wrong, its not a repair. you really need to drop the trans and rebuild it someday. The lucas oil is just a temporary fix but for $8 a bottle its prety impressive stuff.

It is a very very thinck red fluid, its an oil sort of but it is actually a little sticky. Regardless it seems to bond with the clutches as well as change the viscosity of the trans fluid. I don't know what makes it work, but it is the best quick fix I have found yet.

Seriously my Dakota would not shift out of first at all, and it had a really bad case of high RPM's with no power out. I simply added two quarts of lucas and it was fine for months. I waited until the weather got warmer then drained the fluid changed the filter filled it about 3/4 with regular trans fluid and the rest with 2 more bottles of lucas
I put another 3500 plus miles on it and traded it in to a dealer with no complaints about a year ago.
 
now u guys have me worried- i just had my th350 rebuilt and it does that now(no shift into rev only in morning) and the tranny guy said it was just fluid draining out of the converter and not to worry. i say it is a seal seated wrong or bad. break fluid would be the cheap temp fix, but it being brand new core....still same suggestion with additives?
 
"Fluid draining out of the converter?" Ask him where the hell the fluid is going. If you just had it rebuilt, I'd take it back to the wanker and insist he fix it......correctly.
 
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