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is there any good points to WANT auto hubs?

Streetgliderx

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i was kinda sort of wondering is there any GOOD auto hubs out there cause it is sometimes aggrivatin to have to jump out everytime and lock in..... it all started when i blew out the gov lock now i get stuck too damn easy in 2wd.. i got stuck crossin a ditch last week people were pointin and laughin while i jumped out and locked in.... i plan on gettin another locker but not yet
 
Get drive flanges. Cheap, strong, simple.

Contrary to popular belief (who knows how it started) drive flanges are perfectly acceptable on the street. Many OEM trucks have full time hubs.
 
If they were a good idea that worked well, I think there'd be more of them out there, AFAIK there aren't any replacements for the 10 bolt automatic hubs other than manuals.

I'm assuming these are impromptu, short wheeling sessions where you can't simply leave them locked for awhile?
 
thats true its not like this happens alot but its sometimes nice not to have to worry with gettin out all the time..... and someone educate me on drive flanges
 
You could, but I assume flanges are pretty much bulletproof, where even manual hubs can cause problems.
 
Get drive flanges. Cheap, strong, simple.

Contrary to popular belief (who knows how it started) drive flanges are perfectly acceptable on the street. Many OEM trucks have full time hubs.

Now, I've never noticed driveability issues on the street with the hubs locked, which is the same result you'd have from flanges. That said, my turning radius was increased a bit and I think I got a bit more tire scrub on turns. And I don't drive on snow or the like (hey, it's coastal California, ya know? ;) )

IIRC, the OEM drive flanges were on the NP203 trucks, i.e. those with a center differential, and not on NP205 or 208's, i.e. part-time trucks. Odd, actually, as the front shaft would be open on a part-time truck, so I don't know why it would matter. :thinking:

In any event, if you can get flanges for a Dana 44 they'd fit the 10b, as the outers are the same for both. As I understand it, the advantage to flanges is that they're stronger than the manual hubs, as they're thicker since they don't have the center locking mechanism. Less moving parts, too.

In the end, though, on a 10b I don't think you're gonna be breaking hubs, -- at least there are lots of other pieces to break first! -- and they're cheap, off-the-shelf, and more flexible than a flange and a heck of a lot more reliable than then automatic hubs.

-- A
 
thats true its not like this happens alot but its sometimes nice not to have to worry with gettin out all the time..... and someone educate me on drive flanges


Drive flanges are basically full time hubs. They lock the shaft to the hub all the time. They are as simple as can be, generally cheaper than lockouts and they are much stronger than selectable or automatic hubs.
 
Now, I've never noticed driveability issues on the street with the hubs locked, which is the same result you'd have from flanges. That said, my turning radius was increased a bit and I think I got a bit more tire scrub on turns. And I don't drive on snow or the like (hey, it's coastal California, ya know? ;) )


That doesn't make much sense to me, but if that's your experience that's what it is.

I have a detroit in the front of mine and I never noticed any difference between the hubs being locked or unlocked (back when I had selectable hubs) as long as I was in 2WD.


IIRC, the OEM drive flanges were on the NP203 trucks, i.e. those with a center differential, and not on NP205 or 208's, i.e. part-time trucks. Odd, actually, as the front shaft would be open on a part-time truck, so I don't know why it would matter. :thinking:


There are tons of Jeeps and Dodges that drive the front axle full time and all of them use part time cases (mostly 231's and 241's IIRC)
 
Auto hubs are weak and don't like to engage in reverse. That can cause big problems when you end up somewhere that your only option is reverse.

Manual hubs are simple and more reliable than autos. If you remember to lock and unlock them before you get stuck or go running down the interstate you will be just fine.

If everyone else's vehicles are like mine the slide on the drive shaft is worn and leaving the hubs locked when you are in 2wd it shakes like no other. If you dd you vehicle you will do like all the dodges do and wear out u joints like crazy.
 
yeah, but what about a 75% street rig?

Since I'm going over my axles totally, I've just considered going with nice flanges right off the bat, as opposed to rebuilding the Warn premiums in my 60..

I'm just concerned about excessive ujoint wear, etc from street driving...
 
lock em in right off the pavement, then just use the tcase lever to engage it when needed.
 
sold...

top of the line flanges for 60?

The only drive flanges I have ever heard of failing were made by ATOR and were probably a bad batch.

Mine are from NWF and were pretty cheap (less than $150 IIRC), they're made from 8620 chromoly steel.

There are companies like polyperformance that make 4340 slugs but are ~$100 more expensive.
 
I remember reading about the polyperformance ones over at Pirate, they looked pretty sick... I'll actually have to peruse around tonight and shop those.... probably the only damn thing I haven't researched to he!! on the truck... :haha:
 

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