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is there any good points to WANT auto hubs?

Go with the Warns. I just swapped out the automatic junk in my Burb.. easy and was well worth it. Lock 'em when you leave the pavement.. takes 30 seconds and you really never know when you'll need 4wd.. be prepared.
 
I went with the Warn Premiums and love them as well as the old Warn set that was on my blazer when i bought it. There great but you do notice pushing the front end around on pavement if you leave it locked in and in 2wd. I donno about others but i would think not spinning the front end is alot better for it then it spinning all the time? well at least not as fast..
 
ok i think i will stay with the hubs i got and opt for another locker for the rear. i do get some odd sounds and shakes when i leave mine locked over 30mph so i guess i'll stay lock in lock out
 
Streetgliderx said:
OK i think i will stay with the hubs i got and opt for another locker for the rear. i do get some odd sounds and shakes when i leave mine locked over 30mph so i guess I'll stay lock in lock out
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IF You want a Lock-right Blazen offroad sells them for $275...$25 cheaper than the next cheapest.


So is it OK to put manual hubs on a Dana44 with a 203? I`ve heard a lot of different opinions...and dont like that it May not hold in reverse :eek1:
 
Dafey said:
IF You want a Lock-right Blazen offroad sells them for $275...$25 cheaper than the next cheapest.


So is it OK to put manual hubs on a Dana44 with a 203? I`ve heard a lot of different opinions...and dont like that it May not hold in reverse :eek1:
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You can, but without converting the TC to part time, you really won't be going anywhere without being in Hi-loc. The differential in the TC will send all the power to the front, with no axles locked in to actually use the power.
 
Dafey said:
IF You want a Lock-right Blazen offroad sells them for $275...$25 cheaper than the next cheapest.


So is it OK to put manual hubs on a Dana44 with a 203? I`ve heard a lot of different opinions...and dont like that it May not hold in reverse :eek1:
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I don't follow what you're saying.

Any selectable hub should be either engaged or not engaged based on how you turn the dial. With a 203 you basically need full time hubs unless you have a part time kit installed. You could use selectable hubs with a stock 203 but you would need to leave the hubs locked in to use anything but 4hi-lock or 4low-lock.

A truck that came stock with a 203 should have full time hubs (drive flanges). They are engaged all the time, no matter what.

The only hubs that don't work in reverse are the automatic type.
 
38377k5 said:
I don't follow what you're saying.

Any selectable hub should be either engaged or not engaged based on how you turn the dial. With a 203 you basically need full time hubs unless you have a part time kit installed. You could use selectable hubs with a stock 203 but you would need to leave the hubs locked in to use anything but 4hi-lock or 4low-lock.

A truck that came stock with a 203 should have full time hubs (drive flanges). They are engaged all the time, no matter what.

The only hubs that don't work in reverse are the automatic type.
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my 77 K5 came stock with a NP203 and manual locking hubs...there is a sticker on the sun visor that tells about locking and unlocking them
 
Got a link to a place that sells them?

38377k5 said:
Get drive flanges. Cheap, strong, simple.

Contrary to popular belief (who knows how it started) drive flanges are perfectly acceptable on the street. Many OEM trucks have full time hubs.
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I'd get OEM flanges from a yard before buying new ones. Not like they have a bunch of worn out moving parts you know? It'd be a lot cheaper that way. You can get OEM D60 flanges too if you look in the right places.
 
I have auto hubs on my k10. I have wheeled it pretty hard over the past 3 years too. Never once had a problem with them before. Its convienient to not have to get out of the truck to unlock the hubs.
 
38377k5 said:
Drive flanges are 100% streetable.

I would expect axle u-joints to last at least 50K with full time hubs.
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But what about driveshaft u-joints, cv joints and slip joints? What about front driveshaft vibrations? Do you get any?

Mike
 
38377k5 said:
You could always leave your hubs locked in all the time, it won't hurt anything.
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thats what i do, cause I got snow to worry about. I havent really relized much difference. It seems i cant turn as sharp, but it could just be my imagination.
 
UPS said:
But what about driveshaft u-joints, cv joints and slip joints? What about front driveshaft vibrations? Do you get any?

Mike
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You'll have vibrations if those things aren't balanced and at the correct angles, just like in the rear.
 
It is a lot harder to get the correct angles in a front driveshaft, than it is in the rear, because you also have to worry about caster angle. The only way to get both correct is to cut and rotate the inner c's of the front axle, which can be very expensive and time consuming.

It seems to me that you (38377k5) always say you can run drive flanges on the street, but you never mention front driveshaft problems that go along with them.

How much lift can you get away with without having front driveshaft vibration and joint wear problems?

Mike
 
UPS said:
It is a lot harder to get the correct angles in a front driveshaft, than it is in the rear, because you also have to worry about caster angle. The only way to get both correct is to cut and rotate the inner c's of the front axle, which can be very expensive and time consuming.
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True

UPS said:
It seems to me that you (38377k5) always say you can run drive flanges on the street, but you never mention front driveshaft problems that go along with them.
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Its just like any other advice you get on the internet, you have to think some of the stuff out for yourself to make sure that it will work for you.

Don't forget that most front driveshafts on K5's have a double cardan (cv) joint at the t-case end, most won't vibrate.
 
not a problem for most but running pucks on the street is completely and utterly out of the question for me as i have an unbalancable square front shaft... it works flawlessly offroad, but its just not ment to turn at highway speed, im sure most have a more balacend shaft than I, but i also assume most also have a fair amount of vibe especialy when you start getting up there in lift amount. just seems to me like un-needed wear and tear on axle joints, seals, carrier bearings, r&p and drive shaft ujoints, for me the 30 seconds it takes to hop out and twist to dials are a drop in the bucket compaired to what id have to deal with keeping everything locked in all the time...

another thing to consider is taking the pucks in and out as needed, not an option for most dd type trucks due to M/T tires and for the most part lack of a real locker, but i know as far as my truck is concerned if i cant make it in 2wd its not some place id readily go without prior knowledge of said nastiness in which case someone could take the 10-20 mins to slap in some pucks/caps and have some fun and have the utmost of bulletproof setups
 
With 6" of lift and my pinion rotated up 6 degrees my cv joint is almost maxed out. I had to grind the cv joint to get enough angle out of it.
I haven't tried it on the street with the hubs locked yet but I will soon. I will report back with the results.

Mike
 
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