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Is this 350 still good

SPLATT said:
Old Target Master stock replacement engine. Some of them were cast to be able to be installed in both passenger and drivers side dipstick applications. That one has newer heads with self aligning rockers.
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Since this has all the freeze plugs out. How do you clean the spots for them and not have anything fall into the engine?

Should I remove the oil pan and install freeze plugs and oil galley plugs

What is the process of inspections before putting intake, oil filter adapter etc back on?

I read I need to get oil primed? How do I do that
 
get an oil pump priming tool, or if you have an old distributor housing, pull out the shaft and grind the top end to fit in a drill. Put it back in the housing and drop the housing into the dist hole, engaging the oil pump driveshaft. spin until you see oil pressure on the gauge in the truck.'
wouldn't hurt to turn the engine over by hand while pressurizing the system too.
 
76zimmer said:
get an oil pump priming tool, or if you have an old distributor housing, pull out the shaft and grind the top end to fit in a drill. Put it back in the housing and drop the housing into the dist hole, engaging the oil pump driveshaft. spin until you see oil pressure on the gauge in the truck.'
wouldn't hurt to turn the engine over by hand while pressurizing the system too.
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Ok... I’m still a ways from that. My monster package from summit should be here Tuesday then I can get going on putting the engine back together....
 
I just used sandpaper to clean up the freeze plug holes and put Permatex #1 or 2 on them before driving them back in with a socket and extension..Indian Head Gasket Shellac or Aviation Sealer,High Tack also works well on them..

Don't overlook the freeze plugs behind the flywheel...those can't be replaced once the engine is in the truck should they fail,without pulling the transmission...the one for the camshaft I've never touched on any of the SBC engines I freshened up before installing them..it holds in oil,so they rarely ever rust..

There are two pipe plugs on the block at the bottom,one on each side,they are often difficult or impossible to remove ,but if they'll come out ,you should poke a screwdriver thru the accumulated crud in the threaded hole,I use a garden hose to flush out the block good before installing the freeze plugs..you'll be surprised how much casting sand and goop will come out..

While its nice to be able to pressurize all the oiling passages and engine parts,priming the oil pump isn't always a must,as long as the bearings and other moving parts were well lubed with assembly lube or something like STP or Motor-Medic,or motor oil that wont run off before the engine fires up the first time..but its best to do that if you can,it won't harm anything..packing the oil pump with vaseline was a common thing back in the day to ensure it would prime faster..
 
so, I’m using some 320 grit sand paper with wd40 to give the freeze plug holes a clean surface.

I’ve read numerous threads on jalopy forums and elsewhere. Sealant or no?

I have aviation permatex and gasgacinch to use if needed?

What do you guys say?
 
diesel4me said:
I just used sandpaper to clean up the freeze plug holes and put Permatex #1 or 2 on them before driving them back in with a socket and extension..Indian Head Gasket Shellac or Aviation Sealer,High Tack also works well on them..

Don't overlook the freeze plugs behind the flywheel...those can't be replaced once the engine is in the truck should they fail,without pulling the transmission...the one for the camshaft I've never touched on any of the SBC engines I freshened up before installing them..it holds in oil,so they rarely ever rust..

There are two pipe plugs on the block at the bottom,one on each side,they are often difficult or impossible to remove ,but if they'll come out ,you should poke a screwdriver thru the accumulated crud in the threaded hole,I use a garden hose to flush out the block good before installing the freeze plugs..you'll be surprised how much casting sand and goop will come out..

While its nice to be able to pressurize all the oiling passages and engine parts,priming the oil pump isn't always a must,as long as the bearings and other moving parts were well lubed with assembly lube or something like STP or Motor-Medic,or motor oil that wont run off before the engine fires up the first time..but its best to do that if you can,it won't harm anything..packing the oil pump with vaseline was a common thing back in the day to ensure it would prime faster..
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I have permatex aviation sealer and gasgacinch are those OK to use for freeze plugs?
 
Not sure how much you’ve sanded, but they should go in with some effort, not easily. If they go in easily, maybe take a punch and stake a couple spots around the edge of the plug, into the opening to make sure it stays put.
 
They took a few oomphs with the socket and hammer.
One I fear may be a tad too far in. But it’s on the outside by the oil filter area. So if an issue arises I can get too it fairly easily. The plugs are a hair under the recess area which is what the posts and videos said to do.

I just went a few swipes with the sandpaper to clean the surface and wiped it down with some WD40...
 
Took my air compressor and blew a ton of loose dirt out.im going to pull the oil pan and clean as much as I can.
 
I can install the intake manifold before timing cover..
But timing cover has to go on before oil pan cover?
 
TJ1978 said:
Should I use the gaskets at the front (above timing cover) and rear( by distributor) or just RTV that part? I’ve read conflicting opinions
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And you will get both sides asking it here to.
I use the red high tack gasket maker on both sides of the gasket and a little rtv in the corners.
 
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