What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Is this H1 any good?

littlejimmythatcould

littlejimmythatcould

1/2 ton status
Joined
Feb 6, 2006
Posts
797
Reaction score
1
Location
Clovis, NM
Finally got my H1's today. The guy said he had 40, but it was more like 10:( Anyways, I snapped a pic of one that I am worried about. Do you think it's fixable? It has a crack in it. Plus another one has some dings on the lip of the rim. I'm hoping that out of 10 tire/wheel combos I can get 1 set of tires and 2 sets of wheels.

Edit: Dumb question, is it normal for them to be corroded all over and stuff (I understand they're old), but they get all cleaned up when they are recentered right?

1-30 001.jpg

1-30 002.jpg

1-30 003.jpg

1-30 004.jpg
 
Those two close up shots don't look too good. I hope they are the worst of the bunch. The crack is from getting a pinch bend in it, and probably cracked when they beat it back out due to the stress on the metal. But, if the outer ring is still good that could be used on another wheel that may need it. For instance the outer on the other shot looks a little wavey. I don't know if it's the same wheel or not, but if not, you could run the outer from the pinched wheel on the one with a wavey outer.

Anyway, I hope you can get what you need from them. yes, more often than not they are a little dirty etc, as one would expect from surplus, but they are usually still functional. If these are all banged up then he probably paid very little for them at all .. or I should say way less than normal. My wheels were all straight with no mechanical issues. No significant rust or anything like that.

I elected to have mine cleaned (acid dipped) so that the guy doing the recenter would have clean material to weld on, and help with getting everything true. It also gave me a chance to check them over one last time to make sure there were no stress cracks hiding under all the layers of military paint.
 
I do have access to a big walk in media blaster, I wonder if that would work :rolleyes: They'll probably get a rattle can job when it's all said and done, not nearly as nice as yours.
 
I wouldn't be afraid to media blast them. Besides, that will make a marked difference in how well the rattle can paint will stick. I had painted some shackles that got scratched up just moving them around in my shed, so I blasted them and repainted and it's like night and day on the difference, much much better now.
 
find the best 5 since you need a spare tire too. Minor dings can be reshaped, and then get them blasted. Probably end up looking brand new.
 
If they're going on a trail rig and your gonna run beadlock inserts I wouldn't worry too much about them. Just beat it back out, weld it up. Someone sells beadlock strenghteners that you weld into the lip. Its just rolled 1/2 round stock. I welded a set in the outers of grimjaw's. Pretty neat. BTW killer deal on them.:bow:
 
uberbeans said:
Newb question of the evening: do people use the H1 wheels because they fit on one ton's brakes? Is it because they look cool?:confused:
Click to expand...

I would say that the #1 reason would be that they are cheap. Not the people buying them, the rims:D
 
Stomper said:
I would say that the #1 reason would be that they are cheap. Not the people buying them, the rims:D
Click to expand...


Ya that is the main reason. Also for a long time the only large tire you could buy was either on a 15" or 16.5" wheel. The H1 wheels just so happened to be 16.5" and a cheap double beadlock......BONUS!!!:D
 
Certainly worth $15 with a wheel:eek1: They are running $30 -$40 for just the rim on eBay. Although I've never seen one that had a gouge like that in it. I think they are repairable though. Talk to whomever will do your recentering about blasting & repair. Might decide to do some of it yourself. Or not;)
 
sorry for hi-jacking, but this only needs one responce:

how much does it cost to re-center the H1's, and is it worth it??

Okay that was two questions....
 
uberbeans said:
Newb question of the evening: do people use the H1 wheels because they fit on one ton's brakes? Is it because they look cool?:confused:
Click to expand...

Cheap true double bead lock.
 
Clod_King said:
sorry for hi-jacking, but this only needs one responce:

how much does it cost to re-center the H1's, and is it worth it??

Okay that was two questions....
Click to expand...

DIY for about $200 or pay someone prob $50 a rim. Don't do it at all and run spacers or a dually D60.
 
Prices for recentering vary like the prices of the wheels. In my case, my total for buying the wheels and have them recentered w/ rock rings etc was only 131.00 a wheel. (30 for wheels, 32 for centers, 30 for rings, 35 each install, 4.00 for rebar rings on back)

I also chose to acid dip and powder coat, which I didn't add to the cost since it does not have to be done. I could have elected to sandblast (at home) and rattle can them.

My main reason for going with H1's are that they are a double beadlock, and that they were cheap. Plus I like the simple and plain style of them. 8 bolts and I can have the wheel apart and repair my own flat and have it back on the wheel, in just a short while.
 
So TxFire,

The 8 bolt rims are rated to 35lbs per military. Are you sticking to that or do you think they will hold more? I've been looking for 12 bolts because they are rated for 50 lbs and I'd like to run the Mil radials on them but as you probably know they are scarce and run $50+ a rim when you can find them.

So I guess I'm asking if you have looked into it at all?

Have I asked who did your recentering?
 
Yeah, I had the option to get the 12's too, but for about 100 a pop, 60 for just the rim. I think I'll probably just be running around the 35 psi mark anyway, so I don't see it being a problem for me. Since the wheels are a tad on the narrow side, if I get something like 14.5 wide tires, then it's best to run a little less psi while on the road to keep from wearing out the center. Off road, I'll of course air down even more. Eventually I'd like to have a set of dedicated trail tires on the H1's, and some X-trail tires on some plain Jane wheels for street duty. But since I'm on the tail end of a 2 year parts list, and a whole build in front of me, I'm waiting on that.

I do wonder to myself if the 35 psi stamped on the wheel was because it was known before hand that it was a "military only" wheel, and they probably already knew what tire would be on there. But, that's just me wondering out loud. It could simply mean that the wheel with any tire combo, shouldn't be pressurized over that. I guess only the manuf. knows the true answer. I do know that the military, in it's years of aquired wisdom, simplifies everything that it can. So since they knew what tire they would be using, they may have simply had the psi (in relation to the tire, more so than the wheel) stamped on the wheel where it would be easy to find. But again, I'm just guessing.

My recentering was done by Creative Engineering Off-Road in Conroe, TX.

http://www.ceoffroad.com/index.shtml
 
I wonder if it would be worth a drive to San Antonio to have them done intead of shipping them to usa 6X6. I have heard mixed reviews about them. And yes I do believe most of them are rock ring candidated as the lips on them are pretty dinged up and that would help in future dingings. Are the studs on the wheel replacable? I can forsee a few of them breaking upon removal.
 
CEO is actually north of Houston. Muddyblzr here at CK5 goes to school here, and took them back home with him for christmas break, and dropped them off at CEO for me. Then brought 'em back when the next semester started.

I got my centers from 6x6, and sent them to CEO with my rims.

I bought some 1/2" re-bar rings for 4.00 each, that a buddy had made, and welded them in when I got the wheels back from CEO. Be advised though, I really think the rock rings, and re-bar rings will make these wheels a bear to balance.. or even get close to balanced. But, I at least hope I can get them close enough to live with.

The studs are replacable. I bought some extra studs, nuts and O rings from 6x6 when I bought my centers. I figured they would be good to have around in the event something got toasted. I just knocked all my studs out with a brass drift and shop hammer. They're all cleaned up now, and I primed them, and gave them a light coat of black. Just knock 'em out and see how many need to be replaced. I was lucky and all of mine looked great. I bought the extras before I knew I would be going with rings.. but it's still good to have a few spares.

rebar 003a.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom