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It looks so small

I can't change it out now or I would, no one has one in stock, soonest I could get it is monday. And I have a few things I still needa do before I can really start driving it. But my real problem is a place to work. I live on a military base, and can't do any of the work in the parking lot/car ports. We have a DIY shop which is where I'm changing the motor in, but they're only open so many hours a day, and closed mondays and tuesdays, and my new job starts Wednesday. Think I'm leaning towards running the oil cooler, letting it drip for now.

Slapperbar said:
The gasket kits for the factory oil cooler are CHEAP and Vatozone has them.
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That answers another question, didn't know if it was factory or aftermarket. The steel braided line itself is leaking. Guess I can look up the part and see if autozone sells them. But even if they do, autozone doesn't keep crap on supply here, so it'd be Monday. I could look up any shops that make thier own lines and have one made but it's sunday, a lot of shops are closed.
 
well i think we ALL said things in the wrong way and this then come across the wrong way.

we are all helpfull here and def not a pirate type site.

cant we all just be happy :sign18:

and fyi if scott ( 4x4high ) tells you somthing its best you try to do it. he has years as a motor builder from his own shop he use to have. and is the #1 motor guy hands down :bow: here if you ask me.

i know you are under time limits but we are only giving you the best parts/info with no bull :poo: :thumb:
 
sweetk30 said:
well i think we ALL said things in the wrong way and this then come across the wrong way.

we are all helpfull here and def not a pirate type site.

cant we all just be happy :sign18:

and fyi if scott ( 4x4high ) tells you somthing its best you try to do it. he has years as a motor builder from his own shop he use to have. and is the #1 motor guy hands down :bow: here if you ask me.

i know you are under time limits but we are only giving you the best parts/info with no bull :poo: :thumb:
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So I really have no idea what happened with 4x4high. I don't understand what I said or did? Only thing I can imagine that came across wrong whas when I replied with 'did you read my post :rolleyes:' and that set it off the wrong way. What I can't understand is that I DID listen, I wrote down what he said to use and looked for it. But that's all in the past.

Ya I'm under time limits, and I'm not trying to rush anyone, just saying what's going on. I don't want or expect anything from anyone. If I'm comming across in any other way then I apologize to anyone. But on to engine'ness.

So it's in, bolted down and connected to the tranny. Had an hour and some change wasted getting something to put the balancer back on. The autoskills center on post is great in that it's a shop, pretty cheap to use. But 10 tags = 10 tools. Ratchet, socket, extention, there's 3 tags. A lot of time wasted with that.

But the engine's in, new motor mounts, new fuel pump, new water pump, new power steering pump/high pressure line/return line, new alternator. Just needs the flywheel to converter bolts, starter, inspection cover, exhaust manifold and Y'pipes hooked up, carb needs to go on, alternator and power steering pump needs to go on, fan shroud, distributor. Would like to get a oil primer tool, can I just get a long screw driver, cut the handle off and put it in a drill? How do those work? Shop closed at 5, so had to load the Jimmy back on the trailer, windows down, rainning, trying to see if my buddy's home so I can take it to his house and work on it under the carport. Took a few pics, I'll post them all when it's done.
 
You should use an old dist. properly modded or a primer tool, also the power steering system will need to be bled/ purged of air. All info related to all in this post is on this website. Search well Co-hi.
 
FYI: My Oreilly has the Valvoline VR1. BUT, Jegs has it much cheaper @ 4.99. They only charge 12.99 handling no mater the quantity. Just picked up a bushel :)
 
Slapperbar said:
You should use an old dist. properly modded or a primer tool, also the power steering system will need to be bled/ purged of air. All info related to all in this post is on this website. Search well Co-hi.
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Ya no stranger to bleeding power steering. I saw something online about modding an old dizzy, but I don't have one. I'll scout out the tool. Jimmys back under my carport, buddy never picked up his phone, so we downloaded the Jimmy off the trailer, not even in the truck to go put the trailer back and he calls, didn't feel like putting it back on the trailer (we use a come'along). Been getting rained on the past hour. So it's back where it's been sitting for the last month and some change, letting it drip off a little bit and I'll head back out there to finish up some more tonight. Should get it up and running tomorrow. Wish I would have spent some time at the shop to get the flywheel bolts on, don't have a prybar to keep it from moving, wondering if putting the spark plugs back on, the compression is enough to tighten the bolts all the way.

K85 Octane said:
FYI: My Oreilly has the Valvoline VR1. BUT, Jegs has it much cheaper @ 4.99. They only charge 12.99 handling no mater the quantity. Just picked up a bushel :)
Click to expand...

Our parts stores here are lacking to say the least. Need anything a bit obscure and it has to be ordered. Something off the shelf? Nah, they have tons of tuner crap and other junk that never gets used, a whole isle of floor mats and seat covers. They don't even have pcv valves and fuel filters out on the floor, but they have 6 different type of 'Dual' junk stereos. That's O'rileys. Autozone, forget it, me and all my buddies, 80-90% of the time the part we order is the wrong one. Unless you come in with the part number you can forget about it. Which sucks cause they're 5 minutes away, O'rileys is about 15 minutes, or 45 if it's rush hour. So driving an hour and a half there and back (it's 5 exits down, like 12 miles) sucks.
 
mrschaeferpants said:
So I really have no idea what happened with 4x4high. I don't understand what I said or did? Only thing I can imagine that came across wrong whas when I replied with 'did you read my post :rolleyes:' and that set it off the wrong way. What I can't understand is that I DID listen, I wrote down what he said to use and looked for it. But that's all in the past.
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What set me off was the fact that I gave you a suggestion in another post and never did you reply back acknowledging that you read what I wrote and then in this post after I made a statement about the other post you came back with a "did you not read my post" with a sarcastic emoticon like i'm supposed to read your mind that you infact did acknowledge what I said. On this post all you said before I had made any mention was that you couldn't find any "break in" oil other than Comp Cams. The bottom line is that there really is no such thing as "break in" oil other than the fact that you need high levels of zinc with an engine that is a flat tappet cam and my suggestion was for an oil that had what you needed. Autozone stocks the VR1 oil around here and while I can't say the same for other places around other states a chain store like Autozone usually carries the same lines at all of their stores.

If I misread what you typed or vice versa then sorry about that and all's good but checking out my profession will go a long ways in determining if you take or leave MY advice now or in the future. :thumb:
 
4X4HIGH said:
... if you take or leave MY advice now or in the future. :thumb:
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Just a Public Service Announcement: nobody on this planet is irreplaceable. :whistle:

And this is not about the current Ferrari F1 engine now, is it?
 
jms said:
Just a Public Service Announcement: nobody on this planet is irreplaceable. :whistle:

And this is not about the current Ferrari F1 engine now, is it?
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I'm not saying i'm the holy grail but when it comes to engines, I probably know alot more than most everyone on this board. Like I said, he can either take or leave my advice as it really doesn't matter to me either way. It's not like i'm getting paid to help anyone on here but i do have a good following of people who trust and value my advice. :deal:
 
4X4HIGH said:
you came back with a "did you not read my post" with a sarcastic emoticon
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I figured that's what did it. And I should apologize, since although no harm intended, I can see how being a smart ass (even if jokingly) ins't a good decision with someone I don't know.

4X4HIGH said:
The bottom line is that there really is no such thing as "break in" oil
Click to expand...
Ya I know it's just now a common place terminology for a high zinc oil.

When my break in period is over, is VR1 good to continue using? I saw the Rotella T Protection or whatever someone else suggested, my buddy swears by it as well but I only saw 15w40, which is what I only ever see of that stuff. Ran it in the Blazer the first oil change and psi was through the roof until it warmed up. I've never cared about oil before, just bought whatever caught my eye in the weight I needed, but never had a brand new motor either.

Done for the night, tired of laying in pools of water when it's 46 degrees out. Just did the flywheel, exhaust manifolds/Y-pipe, carb. Tired, cranky, eatin' taco bell and gunna play lame FB games.
 
It's almost ready, need a distributor. Bought a Mallory yesterday, they spent 20 minutes looking for the one I chose (display box), came back said they don't carry it :rolleyes: ($181) brought another they said was like the same one ($250), didn't pay much attention to it, this morning put the plugs in, finished topping off the coolant, open my new distributor box to put the coil in and check it out etc. "GM STYLE HEI FOR FORD AND AMC 221-302" :mad:

Now usually I don't have a problem with this O'rileys, since a lot of them aren't just parts monkeys but wrench as well, and really it's my fault for not looking at the 2nd box and checking it out, red flag should have went up when it took them 20 minutes to find me a distributor to replace the one I choose. -These are the things that keep happening which is why I haven't fired it up yet.

So d/l the .pdf for my engine. Probably not as streetable as I'd like, I really just wanted a more powerful than stock, nice DD engine, but oh well. Maybe getting the wrong distributor was a divine intervention. Cause what I first noticed when I took it out of the box was the vacuum cylinder was on the wrong side, facing the wrong direction. Well here's an exerpt from the engine's .pdf file:

Set initial spark timing at 10º before top dead center (BTDC) at 650 rpm with the vacuum advance line to the
distributor disconnected and plugged. This setting will produce 32º of total advance at wide-open throttle (WOT).
The HEI vacuum advance canister should remain disconnected. This engine is designed to operate using
only the internal centrifugal advance to achieve the correct timing curve. Rotate the distributor counterclockwise​

to advance the timing. Rotate the distributor clockwise to retard the timing.

Camshaft:
The 350/290 HP engine uses an aggressive flat tappet camshaft to achieve the level of performance for its intended
usage. Camshaft lift is .450” intake / .460” exhaust. Camshaft duration (@.050”) is 222 degrees intake and
exhaust. Lobe centerline is 114 degrees. Normal engine manifold vacuum for the 350/290 HP engine is 10-12”​

Hg at idle (650-750 rpm).

So I'm going to return the distributor, get another one, with no vacuum advance? There's an Accel one, O'rileys doesn't show a price though, but I should probably get one like the Mallory that comes with the different springs so I can set the curve? It says 32º at 3000RPM.
 
street vehicle i bett you will want vac advance. :whistle: but i am no engine expert.

and few years ago i went threw 3 brand new accel dist and super coils ALL d.o.a out of the box. i will never run there stuff again. and yes the truck ran before there parts . and after i put the sloppy/worn out/shot hei back in everytime.

got me a msd unit and never looked back worked perfect out of the box not 1 problem.
 
Ya timming curves is something I'm still in the dark with. Now if it says to run 32º @ 3000rpm w/o vacuum advance, me wanting to use this as a DD with a little pep, what should I run as far a distributor, with what weights or springs and all that mumbo jumbo I'm like :confused:. Hope I didn't screw myself from your info 4x4high :bow:
 
So finally got it to start up after a lot of WTF'ing. Don't think this engine uses the same balancer, so timming was way off, just now gotta figure out which one to get, F it everything else is new why not. I dunno, I think it's supposed to be the 8" blancer. It came with multiple timming tabs, I put the same one that was on mine, in the same spot.

What I got from another site selling that engine says 6.75 balancer with 2 oclock timming pointer.

Edit Yet Again: Ok so the pdf I d/l said includes timming tabs for either 6.75 or 8". Which timming tab do I use with the 8"
 
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