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IT RUNS!!! before I try and start this truck...

thedrip

thedrip

1/2 ton status
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I bought a CUCV some months ago, minus an injector pump. I have a 2nd engine here, so I'm real sure I got all the injector lines in the right order, going to the correct cylinders. Pin on the pump drive lined up in the oblong hole in the drive gear. The cover was never off, so I'm assuming the drivegear could not have been moved, so everything is still in time.

All sound good? First shot at diesel stuff, I'm beginning to like it. One fiddly part (IP) the rest stick it together correctly and go.
 
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Yep, sounds good. Now you'll need to get the air out of the lines before trying to start it up.

Arveetek did a good tech write-up which covers bleeding the air out the easy way.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69490

No sense me typing it all out again. :wink1:

Other things on your check list should be to check all the glow plugs. Make sure they all work, and if not replace them.

Make sure your batteries are in tip top shape, in fact I'd charge em up if I were you.

Make sure your starter is in good shape, cranking speed is king for getting a 6.2 to flash up easily.

Rene
 
lots of battery, bleed the air, everything looks good to go. be a few days before I get another day off where I can whack at this. thanks for the answer.

Its always gotta be a canuck though don't it. Damned 51st state.

Edit: I was born & raised in the toronto suburbs... 21+years.. just so no one think I'm a closet racist (see lounge)
 
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Born and raised in Toronto, somehow I'm not surprised. Not that i'm racist or anything either...
taunt.gif


Rene
 
slowly making progress. picked up a couple new batteries (biggest ones on the shelf. who can blame me? 830ca, 700cca). got 'em both wedged onto a single battery tray. the m1028 has 2 ridiculously sized trays. wired batteries to busbars on the firewall with 2 gauge, + bar to starter with 0 gauge, - bar to block with 0 gauge. Doesn't exactly crank like I'd hoped, but I guess it is a diesel after all. Cranked enough that the filter is filled up. I guess next step is to crack off the lines at the injectors, and crank until they piss diesel everywhere.

Did learn a new trick yesterday from a friend. If you're trying to bleed injectors and the truck just won't quite start, a rag, with a little gasoline on it, placed over the intake will get it to fire... just be good and ready to pull that rag off as soon as the engine fires, or it'll run away. got his old mechanical 7.3 started that way, let it idle for a couple hours, kept cracking injector lines then tightening them, one by one. after 2 hrs, it ran pretty good... heres to hoping my 6.2 is as agreeable.
 
thedrip said:
slowly making progress. picked up a couple new batteries (biggest ones on the shelf. who can blame me? 830ca, 700cca). got 'em both wedged onto a single battery tray. the m1028 has 2 ridiculously sized trays. wired batteries to busbars on the firewall with 2 gauge, + bar to starter with 0 gauge, - bar to block with 0 gauge. Doesn't exactly crank like I'd hoped, but I guess it is a diesel after all. Cranked enough that the filter is filled up. I guess next step is to crack off the lines at the injectors, and crank until they piss diesel everywhere.

Did learn a new trick yesterday from a friend. If you're trying to bleed injectors and the truck just won't quite start, a rag, with a little gasoline on it, placed over the intake will get it to fire... just be good and ready to pull that rag off as soon as the engine fires, or it'll run away. got his old mechanical 7.3 started that way, let it idle for a couple hours, kept cracking injector lines then tightening them, one by one. after 2 hrs, it ran pretty good... heres to hoping my 6.2 is as agreeable.
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i'd really avoid the gas trick. if you get the lines bled, have good glow plugs and good compression, you won't have a problem starting that thing up. if you do - look for problems and don't do the gas trick.
 
well... back to this again. Even with two fresh batteries, new cables, nothing getting hot trying to start, it turns over REAL slow. What are the odds that the national park guys didn't change the starter to a 12v unit when they did the rest of the 12v conversion (which is pretty hacked together for only having to swap around a couple wires). Any way to tell the military 24v starters against a 12v starter from under the truck?
 
Dare I suggest hooking your batt's in series and trying again?

Could it just be a bad starter?

Rene
 
thedrip said:
well... back to this again. Even with two fresh batteries, new cables, nothing getting hot trying to start, it turns over REAL slow. What are the odds that the national park guys didn't change the starter to a 12v unit when they did the rest of the 12v conversion (which is pretty hacked together for only having to swap around a couple wires). Any way to tell the military 24v starters against a 12v starter from under the truck?
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I don't think the 24v starter would even turn enough to be considered turning with 12v.
Check your connections and check your batteries.
Do a load test on them, they might not be good enough.
Or the starter is going out, they start going really slow when a coil or 2 go bad.
I say to be sure replace the starter with a 12v reduction starter.
 
could be a bad starter. I don't know where they had this truck stored, but every electrical connection on it has been bad. I've had to pull every connector, clean the terminals, every bulb, clean the terminals, flipped each switch 20 times before it worked and so on. I'm going to charge both batteries up again (they were brand new 3-4 days ago) and have at it. If it spins slow, starter time.
 
also fwiw, a crappy solenoid can affect starter speed. that's a $15 part which is easy to replace so you can test your problem.
 
well, since I'm not horribly convinced the starter is in great shape, and I was kind of planning on re-wiring the whole truck (the electrical is really sketchy), I disconnected the glowplugs and wired up for 24v. turns over like a banshee now. opened all the injector lines, cranked and pissed diesel everywhere, tightened things up... now I got it back to 12v, glow plugs hooked up, turns over like it was before, but it puffs smoke now. Thats an "improvement". Also makes better smoke rings than I ever could.
 
How do I check the glowplugs for proper function? I let 'em glow for 20 seconds on 12v, then quickly switched to 24v and turned it over. turns over fine, puffs a bit of whiteish smoke, and after a couple cranks seems to start trying to fire... makes a deep gutteral kinda noise, but never actually sounds like the combustion is actually spinning the motor any.
 
oh, theres 12v at the glow plug connector. Can I test them by pulling them out, applying 12v, and seeing if they get hot? =)
 
what do ya know. I used search, found that super basic test (test light to +, touch GP). failed on the #1... so I got a great idea... if I go to +, and tap into the harness, if ANY GP is good, my light should come on... no dice. I think I got 8 bad glowplugs, no wonder it won't start =)
 
Guess this means I'll pick up 8 glowplugs tomorrow... either $9 cheapies, or actually spend the coin (its real coin here too, everything is 1.5x as much) and get the good ac/delcos
 
Get the G 60 Glow Plugs. They won't swell like the others. Con is they aren't as good in cold weather. Even if it snows, it doesn't get cold there:wink1:

Speaking of swelling, you might have a problem getting them out if the old ones have swelled.

The solution:haha:

Replace the ones you can. Leave one of the swelled plugs loose, as in unthreaded, start the engine:eek1: Over the racket you should hear a "POW" as the plug is shot out:doah: If it still won't come out attach vice grips to the loose plug and start the engine. Take a hold on the vice grips and push. What you are going for is a jackhammer affect. That will pound out the plug.

Be sure to wear gloves, eye protection (face shield is best) long sleeve shirt, flac jacket, cup, and anything else you deem nesessary:bow::haha::bow:

I'd also suggest ear protection. It gets LOUD in the engine bay:D
 
it gets stinky in my cab right now. hole in the floor (caused by a broken, and flailing, front driveshaft) combined with a conveniently perfectly lined up hole in the exhaust pipe (caused, you guessed it, by a broken and flailing front driveshaft), makes for a stinky time trying to get it to start. Probably fix that right around the time I drop the broken tranny/tcase out (you guessed it.. driveshaft took out the tranny case, and the front output of the tcase is missing)
 
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