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*it runs! but.....new cam and heads in 350 sounds good in park but no power*it runs!*

down4thakrown

down4thakrown

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jus got the motor goin in the k5, world product heads with brand new mild cam and performer carb 1406 with stock primary and 6% richer secondaries...ok when its in park it sounds good and runs smooth...but when i put it in gear and try to move it with a flat tire it jus barely wants to move and when enough gas is given it shoots flames from the carb and dies..i have to advance the heck out of it jus to keep the flames from shooting out of it..when in gear and trying to move but it still barely wants to move and sputters out...could it be the carb is just to rich? i ran a performer 1405 right out of the box on a stock crate motor 260 horse and it ran just fine.....could it be cuz the secondaries are makeing it so rich...or is the cam just not broke in all the way? i held it at bout 3000k rpms for a minute..should it be longer? im in flagstaff at about 6000ft elevation....please help guys.... i wana go wheeling...
 
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ah, edelbrock carb..... my brother has one on his 1973 bronco with a ford racing 302 in it...... weve had it for a few years now, trying on and off to work on it, and have still yet to get it to run right.

Im not a carb guy, so i cant give good advice on how to tune it, but my suggestion, get a 750 Q-jet, have it set up by someone who knows what theyre doing, and never worry about it again. not to mention if you can keep your foot out of it it will get decent mileage on the road, and when the secondaries kick in, get the women and children off the streets.

but it does indeed sound like its running pig rich under throttle, maybe its the accelerator pumps? the jetting? the idle adjustment?? really no way for me to point you in the right direction.
 
from what ive read on here and else wheres your supposed to hold your engine at 2000-2500 for 15 to 20 mins to break in a cam or bad things will happen.
 
oh wow... missed that part about the break in, should have read up on that more my friend. do a correct break in procedure, which as was stated was a 20min 2000-3000rpm with the rpm going up and down every 5min or so. and hope nothing is funky.
 
Flames out the carb sounds like your timing is off. Have you put a timing light on it?

Defenitly need to fully break in cam though.
 
I guess that's why they put directions in the box.
 
got a timing lit on it..it idles at 12 degrees advance fine..but when i give it throttle it bogs down a bit...when i advance it to where its off the gauge and probly around 18 degrees or so.. it idles very smooth and sounds healthy when throtttle is applied... but as far as the cam being broke i pretty much jus ran it straight at bout 3000 rpms for bout a minute then started to try to move it and trying to get the carb adjusted...i really hope i didnt screw up the cam...... i also heard that the valves could not be adjusted right.....and that there not closing all the way.......would that be possible when it runs smooth and sounds good in park at bout 18 degrees advanced? also tried a differant carb and it actually wanted to move and didnt blow flames outa the carb but did back fire out of the carb and didnt have the power brake booster hooked up...............anybody else got any input????
 
flames through the carb definatly scream 180 out. dunno how that would look on a timing light.

I would pop out the dizzy, turn the engine over by hand until the number 1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke. put the dizzy back in, and then have a buddy or significant other crank the engine, and then tune the timing by ear until it sounds smooth, then bring the rpms up to 2000-2500rpms, and run it for the 20-25min break in period. This is of critical importance. This should be done before anything else.

how critical is this??? when breaking in my brothers engine in the bronco, we discovered he forgot to put gaskets on the valve covers. but once the engine was running, we didnt want to risk damaging it by shutting it off and starting over. so we ran it, with oil spilling onto the headers and blowing a huge cloud of smoke into the neighborhood. open headers and all, it made quite a scene.

after that, you can start looking at other things.
 
my bet is that if he has been playing with it alot the cam is junk, maybe u should drain the oil to see how much metal is in it.
 
12 degrees is WAY too much advance. These motors like around 6 degrees.


I though 180 out too but it wouldn't want to run at all if it was.


Try putting it at 6 degrees advanced and break in the cam.
 
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I had to shut my motor off a couple times for setting timing and fixing gas leaks before I got to get it at 2500 R's to break it in and didn't have any problems. You should be OK. Are you pulling the vac. advance off when you are setting initial timing?
Tarey
 
your lifters could be too tight, or they maybe a massive vaccume leak.
Is the vaccum advance unhooked when your setting the timing?
Are you pluggin the port that you just unhooked (to set the timing) on the carb?
 
Fabrimacator21 said:
12 degrees is WAY too much advance. These motors like around 6 degrees.


I though 180 out too but it wouldn't want to run at all if it was.


Try putting it at 6 degrees advanced and break in the cam.
Click to expand...

Not necessarily true, depends on a ton of things. I think I'm running 13 or 14 degrees of initial timing with another 18 degrees of mechanical timing on my 383, never had any issues.


K5dreamer said:
flames through the carb definatly scream 180 out. dunno how that would look on a timing light.
Click to expand...


Not a chance the motor would run if the distributor were 180* out. Backfire, sure, but it wouldn't run.



First things first, run a compression check on the motor. If all cylinders read the same we'll talk about potential culprits, otherwise the valves aren't adjusted correctly or the cam is wiped out.
 
38377k5 said:
Not necessarily true, depends on a ton of things. I think I'm running 13 or 14 degrees of initial timing with another 18 degrees of mechanical timing on my 383, never had any issues.





Not a chance the motor would run if the distributor were 180* out. Backfire, sure, but it wouldn't run.



First things first, run a compression check on the motor. If all cylinders read the same we'll talk about potential culprits, otherwise the valves aren't adjusted correctly or the cam is wiped out.
Click to expand...

Maybe not 180 out but it could be a tooth off.

Also I don't know how the carbed computers work, but if it has electronic timing, theres a wire you need to unplug when you time it.

Valve adjustment could be the culprit...
 
i dont think its tooth off, turned motor to 0* on the timing tab and poped the dist. cap and rotar was pointing right at #1 postition....i really hope i didnt ruin the cam tho...but ive talked to summit racing tech guy and a carburator guy and they both said sounds like the valves are too tight...im just worried i screwed up the cam...when i first put the carb on it was way to rich...it wouldnt even idle and i hardly messed with it the only way it ran was me holding it at 3000 rpms.. and the only way it started was to have it so far advanced that any more it wouldnt run and jus die when i just advance it a hair more. and i didnt even have the cable hooked up..i had to sit in the engine bay to keep it running....so i never got a chance to put it in gear...then i rejetted the carb and hooked the cable up.. fired it up then tried moving it and right off the bat it was shooting flames outa the carb....
 
Your cam should be fine as long as you didn't drive too far...

There's not gonna be any chips or metal shavings anywhere unless you were balls out floggin on it. Both the cam lobes and lifters are harder then a witches heart. It would take a hell of a lot to chip either of them.

Usually flames out the carb means too advanced. My guess is your valve adjustment is focked up and it needed to be that advanced to run. My motor will run like dog crap at 12 degrees so I'm not suprised your having trouble in D.

Also, if you have a computer, check to see if you have electronic advance. If you do theres a wire you need to unplug when you time it. If you don't unplug that wire your timing is not accurate.(again I have no idea how the computer controlled carbs are setup so you may or may not have one).
 
Check for a significant vacuum leak too. that would make it die at idle, but run ok at 3Krpm.
 
yep didnt drive at all... hardly moved it...i was tryin to move it with a flat tire... i was just shutting it off or it was dieing on me i would try to adjust ethier distributor or carb and then fire it back up try to move it then it would die or i would shut it off...it didnt even really move...i think its the valves tho.. i talked to 2 tech from summit and the guy who buiilt my carb.. and all 3 said valves where too tight....and i never brought up anything bout the other person suggestion the valves....just the 2 summit guys said theres a good chance i screwed up the cam tho...i hope there wrong...
 
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