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Its going to be a slow 72 K5 build thread

I got these in the mail yesterday

1.jpg





I ordered a new passenger side front floor support, passenger side A pillar patch and the truck version door support with intergrated inner rocker. I now need to stock up on primer, sanding disk, paint etc.. then I will be ready to start on the passenger side repair.

I saved the picture wrong, thats why its extra large. Hopefully I will not do that again.
 
As you'll see, there are quite a few overlapping layers in what I called the "4-bolts area" at the front cab support. You've got the floor, the inner rocker and the a-pillar support metal all converging into that spot and if you want it to look "factory" you need to pay attention to which way you layer them.

The reproduction parts are pretty good, but don't be surprised if you need to modify them to fit correctly. If you have an opportunity to trust either the factory part or the repro one.....trust the factory part.


:usaflag:
 
Since I'm waiting on parts I started planning the transmission and transfer case swap.

Parts I currently have:
TH350 with a mounted NP203
700r4 with a mounted NP208
10 spline NP205 from a SM465

So here is my delimma. I'm going to use the 700r4 transmission and I was going to buy the parts need to connect the NP205 to it. After searching I think it would be cheaper to find and buy TH350 ready NP205. Then I realized that I have the TH350 ready NP203 and a extra NP205.

Here is where I need some opinions.
Should just find a TH350 NP205? :dunno:
Or should I do the NP203/205 doubler and connect that to the 700r4? :saweet:

I am planning on a minimum of 6 inch suspension lift and a maximum 8 inch suspension (I don't know for certain yet, I want to run 40's but I'm leaning towards 37's). No rock crawling just some light mudding on the occasional weekend. With that tall of a lift and doubler transfer case I'm afraid that my drive shaft angles will be garbage, what do you guys think? I know I don't need a doubler, but it would add cool points to my rig.
 
Bama,

Let me save you a BUNCH of money and frustration.....

You DON'T need a Doubler for what you are planning. :yikes: :D


First of all, if you've ever tried to lay out a Doubler in a 1st Gen frame (which I have) you'll quickly realize how long it is. The rear driveshaft gets stupid-short and the front one gets dopey-long.

If you aren't rock crawling, you don't need rockcrawler gearing. There's no way you'd want 4:1 reduction for mudbogging.... I'm no expert, but it's all about wheelspeed in that sport.

The 700R4 has a nice deep 1st Gear...deeper than the TH350. It also has the overdrive gear, which you'll be glad to have if you put some deep gears in your axles. If it were my build, I'd stick with the 700R4/205 combo and call it good. What sort of axle gears will you be running? 4.56?... 5.13?

Even with a mild smallblock, that setup with a decent axle gear will get-up-and-go in the mud. If you really want deeper gearing you could go with a later-style transfercase like the 241 (2.72:1 instead of 1.96:1)...but it's a strength tradeoff that you might not be willing to make.

If your truck was completely finished and you still had money to burn, I'd say go for the "cool points" of the Doubler.... but I'm sure that money could be used much more effectively on other things right now.


:usaflag:
 
Thanks Greg, the rear driveshaft angle was my biggest concern about the doubler. As for the gear ratio you asked about, if I use a 37 to 38.5 tire I will use 4.88, if I use a 40 inch tire I will use the 5.13's.

I will just plan on using a 205 behind the 700r. That will give me a longer rear driveshaft and that is the main reason I was planning on using the 205.
 
I have been at a stand still waiting on parts. I'm trying to break a bad habit and only work on one area at a time instead of working on several things and get overwhelmed. When I got home from work today I had two boxes waiting at my front door. The first box contained the inner rocker floor board patch, new front floor support and the A pillar patch. I picked up the second box and I thought the box felt really light to have a rocker box in it. I opened it up and I found out why it was so light, it didn't have any thing in it other than cut up paper. I called americanclassic and told them about the situation and they are shipping me another box and guarantee that the rocker box will be in it. It is suppose to be here Monday.

I really need those parts to get here. This downtime is making me think, and when I think my wallet hurts. I have found a good deal on a 454 4l80e and 6.6 Duramax Allison combo. I don't have a transfer case to fit either one and I don't know how to mate a 205 to the allison, but I think Atlas makes one that will bolt up to it. I need some parts to work on so that I can stay focused.
 
FOCUS!!!

This is a really dangerous time in the build for anyone. Rust repair is one of those "not so sexy" areas that takes a long time and there are days when you just have to fight through the boredom and get things done.

If the truck is blown apart for too long for sheetmetal work it's easy to get frustrated and eventually lose interest in the project entirely. It's easy to just keep buying cool parts.....but each new part extends the completion date of the build, takes money out of the budget and may leave you feeling like there's too much money being spent on a vehicle that doesn't even run!!! :yikes:

Yep, I've been there....




:usaflag:
 
I'm there...and it sucks. I just bought a 2000 6.0 and I keep looking for parts. If I spent as much time working on rust as I do searching for parts, i'd be driving up to Austin right now for the classic truck show this weekend in my perfect rust free blazer but i'm at home telling people not to do what i'm doing!
 
I have been very guilty of this in the past on prior projects. On this one my first goal is to get the body right. I'm going to stick to that plan but its hard, I looked for good deals on parts for about 8 months and all I could find was junk for a premium price tag. Now that I'm not looking I keep bumping into great deals. As Greg said "Focus", if that turns out well I might even name the truck Focus, if not I might call it FoCuss
 
The "deals" will always be out there..... if I go to eBay or Craigslist when I don't really NEED anything I will still find something that I could use. If I don't bother even going to those sites.....voila! I don't find myself finding stuff to buy anymore. :D

I also don't cruise the "FOR SALE" areas on CK5.... too many temptations and distractions there as well.

In fact, I am becoming SO adamant about my own build-related focus that I just sold my beloved '72 Suburban this week. You'll notice it's no longer in my .sig line. Now I've got one less "project" to work on, and theres a chunk of extra cash in my K5 account.

Time for me to log out and get into the shop... I owe you guys some updates! :deal:


:usaflag:
 
I've been torn down since I set the engine on fire a year and a half ago. Its been slow progress. We all feel your pain. For me, its the most frustrating when its really nice outside and I should be driving. Just try to focus on the payoff when you get it all back together.
 
I got all the parts needed to repair the passenger side floorboard and rocker box. All I need now is for this 102 degree heat with 85% humidity to go away, it's way too hot for cutting, grinding and welding.
 
Ok I have been gone for a while but I'm back now. I had to stop my build due to a knee surgery and shoulder surgery. After I got over those surgeries I was ready to start back and then I was accused of being a baby's daddy and I postponed my build again just in case I need that money. After 10 months of anxiously waiting I finally got the DNA results and I'm free. So hopefully nothing else will jump out of nowhere and shut to my project down again.

I had a lot of time to think about my build. I originally planned on going a little crazy, 1 ton axles, big lift, at least 40" tires, full roll cage (basically a mud truck that could be driven on the highway). Now I have decided to go a little smaller and a little more street worthy, I already have a 2" body lift on that I'm going to keep, a suspension lift just big enough to clear 37's (advise on that will be welcomed) I already have my rebuilt 700r mated to a 205, a nice paint job and make the chrome shine like it is supposed to.

The truck has the standard D44 and 12 bolt axles, do you guys think 37's will be too much for them (light mud riding with more street driving) or should I go ahead and do the 1 tons? I'm leaning 1 tons but I'm worried that it might be over kill for just 37's.

One more question, for more of street ride would you rather have a sway bar or crossover steering? From what I have read it seems that you can only have one or the other.
 
Will the axles hold up to 37's depends on how nice you are to them. I have a 14 bolt rear with a 10 bolt front with upgraded shafts and crossover. I have 4.10 gears so can't really spin tires so that is easier on the 10 bolt. I doubt you have 4.10's if the axles are stock so yes they will handle if you are easy on them.

To me no sway bar needed, but I do like crossover. I used to bind without lift and on 31's with push pull.
 
Is the rust repair completed? :dunno:

Axle swapping isn't really a high priority if the truck is still blown apart getting patch panels welded in. I will suggest that you need to get this truck into a solid, running condition first......then worry about axle swaps.

For a street driven truck, the best answer I can give you about the sway bar is..... It depends.

If you use soft springs the truck will lean and pitch around a lot more and you'll want the sway bar. I ran 1/2 ton axles, 35s (radials), soft springs and a front sway bar and the truck was very good on the street.

If you run a stiffer set of springs, you won't need the sway bar... And you probably won't need the crossover steering either.

My point is that crossover steering is probably not a critical upgrade based on your usage. The main benefit is to give you better steering under heavily articulated situations....remember, plenty of guys run moderately lifted trucks with stock push-pull setups that work just fine.

:usaflag:
 
I had a lot of steering issues early on with mine and was looking into putting in a sway bar, but once I replaced all the bushings, etc and actually had everything working correctly, I found it wasn't needed.
I have crossover steering in mine and really like it, but honestly probably don't need it considering I don't get down to moab nearly as often as I thought I would.
 
Thanks guys for the input so far. I guess I should have mentioned the spring rates in my previous post in regards to sway bar or crossover. The K5 currently has Superlift HD springs and they have to go. I’m 6’3 320lbs and I can stand on either bumper and jump up and down and the blazer does not move. I did drive it a little before I decided to put it on the operating table and the blazer would beat you to death. So I do know I want softer springs. I had a 78 GMC truck a long time ago with a 14” lift and it rode like a Cadillac compared to my blazer as is. As of now all I want is a 6” suspension lift, ORD shackle flip in the rear with 2” springs, I guess I will have to put 6” springs on the front (I’m debating 4” springs on the front with zero rates and 1” shackle lift – input on that will be welcomed). If I keep the ½ ton axles I will run a 37” radial tire, if I swap to 1 ton axles I will try 38” radials and hope the bigger axle tube diameter is enough lift to keep them from rubbing.

Greg I agree with you that right now axles are very low in priority. I’m just debating if I should start looking for a set to have on standby. When it comes to rust all I have done is sandblast the areas infected and then spray them with primer (I bought a new sandblaster and I couldn’t help but play with it). I was just looking to see how many patch panels I needed. I originally planned on a full cage and I bought truck rockers to replace mine. Now that I don’t plan on a full cage I’m worried that the truck rockers will not hold up since they will not get the support help from the cage.

The rust repair will be the first thing I tackle because when that’s done the rest is downhill. It will also be the most labor intensive and time consuming part of the rebuild. My blazer is stored at my parents because I live in an apartment and I live 35 miles from them. With that distance I will have to take off from work a week at a time to work on it and thankfully I have about 120 days of vacation time built up. Now I just have to find a few weeks when my boss will let me off.
 
Bama72 said:
I guess I should have mentioned the spring rates in my previous post in regards to sway bar or crossover. The K5 currently has Superlift HD springs and they have to go. I’m 6’3 320lbs and I can stand on either bumper and jump up and down and the blazer does not move
Click to expand...
I'm 6'2" and about 210 and I have the skyjacker softride springs under mine. I can get the truck bouncing on either bumper, and the ride is just fine. no sway bar with no issues, but with that soft of springs, towing anything big can be kinda scary.
 
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