CK5
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Its loud, stinky and people stare at me! I love it!

Hah! Yours has more miles than mine...neener neener neener...by about 4000...yours is still probably more solid...bet mine leaks more too...

...sigh...

If you go to the www link in my profile you can see what I've done to mine to fit narrow 38's with 1" of lift and cutting.
When I got it the place had put 36x12.5-16.5 HMMWV tires on it on old Dodge 16.5" narrow wheels. They fit with minor trimming but rubbed the drag link. I fixed that by adjusting the steering stops.

You're in luck as the stock 1 ton springs aren't flex monsters so you can fit relatively big tires without a lot of work or big lift since the tires aren't going as high into the bodywork when you flex.

Depending on how you did it you could get 35's on relatively easily.
-Get a set of stock GM 16 x 6 to 7" wheels. Just about any will do, from the originals for that truck up to modern 16" wheels. I have a set of the aluminum 2500HD wheels in my shed waiting for me to do something with them and the steel wheels on it are from a 2007 GMC 1 ton. They all work.
-Pick which 16" 35's you want to run.
Interco makes the Super Swamper SSR in a 35x10.5R16 with a D load range I believe. That width would allow you to run them with little, if any trimming.
A 315/75R16 (35x12.5R16) would require more work as it'd be wider.
-Adjust your steering driver's side steering stop to keep the sidewall off the drag link. This could be just turning the bolt or might require a trip to the hardware store for a longer bolt. Either way it's easy.
-Might be some minor trimming. It's mainly just the lower edges of the front wheel well opening. It's just that part that folds over 90 degrees from the side of the fender and does nothing but hold crap back there.





Got mine out for the first time this year yesterday. Gave it an oil change, took it for a spin, and even got to do a little scouting and wheeling. Got a stereo in yours yet?
 
I will have to look into the 35s... :doah: I really dont want to trim at all though. Maybe a 1 inch zero rate and some real skinny rims.

Nope... no radio yet.
 
Honestly, with skinny 35's like those SSR's and some factory rims you might not have to. It was close to not needing it with the wider and slightly taller HMMWV tires.

The zero rate is a good mod. You could also relocate the front axle forward an inch, I have yet to do that. That would get the tire away from the rear of the fender well under compression.
 
i got 285/75/16s. i wanted 33 by 12.5 but i didnt see the bfg mt km1s in that size. my only complaint is the look a little skinny but eh whatever
 
Honestly, with skinny 35's like those SSR's and some factory rims you might not have to. It was close to not needing it with the wider and slightly taller HMMWV tires.

The zero rate is a good mod. You could also relocate the front axle forward an inch, I have yet to do that. That would get the tire away from the rear of the fender well under compression.

you are a bad influence on me.
 
I try.

3648300208_large.jpg

:D
 
I will have to look into the 35s... :doah: I really dont want to trim at all though. Maybe a 1 inch zero rate and some real skinny rims.

Nope... no radio yet.

Skinny wheels and 35" 10.5 or even 11.5" wide tires you will not need to trim or lift.
As long as you keep the heavy duty front springs and the sway bar.
You are not doing off road, you are towing.
33" on narrow rims you can actually wheel it.
 
I ditched my sway bar a while ago. These are still 1 ton springs...the front articulation is only a bit better than torsion bar IFS.

Although since he's towing he'd probably want to keep the bar.
 
I looked at my truck this weekend. With the 33s and the wheels turned... sitting on level ground... I hadly have any room for more tire.

Dont think 35s will even come close to fitting. I will have to take a picture.
 
Any idea on the dimensions and backspacing of those rims? Bet that's part of your trouble right there.
 
They look plenty wide.

Get some 16x6.5's, 16x7's, or 16x8's with 4-5" of backspacing (so similar size and backspacing to stock) and I bet a narrow set of 35's would fit under there.

That's a large part of how I'm fitting my narrow 38's.
 
heres mine...

i bought this 3 years ago and had to change alot, with used parts of course, i changed the fenders, doors, rad support,tailgate, seat, door pannels, new parts = radiator, hoses, batteries,flowmasters, dual 2.5 pipes,starter, alt....then i had a used rancho set of 4inch front springs i put on with new eaton 15x10 black wheels with bfg mudds...and just rattle canned it all flat black with 25 walmart cans....the front axle is in my stepside and i put in a d44 with 4:10s, and changed the rear gears also....with the 35s and 4:10s it a good daily driver and work truck.....a pic from last winter...most parts were changed from either being smashed or not there, currently 74,000 miles.........and wow i have the ugly duckling...lol

Picture 375.jpg

Picture 382.jpg
 
only block off half and it gets heat twice as fast, i did it since i only work 7 miles from home. so that when i start it up b4 work i dont have to let it run as long, the cardboard looks bent in the pics but its half the size of the rad and slid tight in. and thanks ajmblazer....i like it too...its a good all around truck and was cheap...
 
thought thats what it was. ive seen lots of big trucks do it, but never tried it myself. probably helps with your winter mileage as well, especially with only a 7 mile commute. warm diesels get way better mileage than cold ones. may not be much of an issue now that i have the jetta as a daily driver, and im looking to install a block heater on the M1009, thats been sitting on the shelf for a while. although, the cardboard solution would help warm the truck up faster on those cold camping trip mornings when everyone is looking to get packed up, on the road, and warm.
 
yea a block heater would help lots, mines a hore in the winter...lol, i like to come out and get in and go so ten min b4 work i fire it up at like 9:20 and shes nice and warm when im ready...
 
wheels are usually stamped with their dimensions. w the steelies i have it's either on the face of the rim or inside.
 
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