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its time to upgrade

axle upgrases


  • Total voters
    29

NEK5

3/4 ton status
Joined
Oct 25, 2005
Posts
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Location
Ipswich MA
So, since I`ll be in the market for new tires in the next couple months, I decided it was time to do a little upgrading. Now, I`m having a heck of a time making up my mind, so here goes: I`m going to 35s. Right now I`m running 1/2 tons, and this is my second set of axles I`m running. My first time out, I blew a spider gear up front, and in the rear the whole pinion backed off. So now i have a somewhat rebuilt 10b up front, and a 10b posi out back. But since I`m going up in tire size, I want to have more strength. I definitely want to lock the rear, no question. But the big question is, should i go 1 ton or not with only 35s...The wheeling around here is mostly mud, with some trails that may have some stumps, rocks.....
 
I say if u have the cash to dish out just go all out now caz in the future u will want bigger abnd then ull have to go to 1ton so just do it know and be happy thats wat im doing soon (taxes) .
 
Chrisblazzer89 said:
I say if u have the cash to dish out just go all out now caz in the future u will want bigger abnd then ull have to go to 1ton so just do it know and be happy thats wat im doing soon (taxes) .
Well, I dont really have the cash to dish out, but I can save if need be...not sure if i`m up for the expense of 1 tons, though.

I dont plan on going any bigger than 35", because this is still my DD. Now, a few years down the road, it may go trail only, then I`m game for 1 tons!...but i need some convincing, and the $$$$ just isn`t doing it for me.:(
 
Just save and go big there are plenty of guys out there with 1tons under thier DD and i know they love them and i soon will be one of those guys.
 
do it anyway...

You'd be better off with an upgrade ,whether you wheel it or not...even just putting a 14 bolt SF rear,and swapping 8 lug outers onto the front axle would be an upgrade,not terribly expensive (probably less than replacing your 10 bolts again!),and you'll have bigger brakes in the rear and more strength..

If you do your homework,I'll bet you can find a truck on its way to the junkyard,and can buy it cheap,use the axles and whatever else you need from it,and cash the rest in for scrap..I'd go to your local junkyards and scrap yards,and tell them your looking for a 3/4 or 1 ton truck to rob the axles from..

I recently saw an 80's 1 ton dually with a 454,D60 front,14 bolt FF rear,NP205 T-case,and a ton of other good parts on "Craigslist" for 1500 bucks, in the town next to me--I bet it sold for much less--had lots of miles on it,but everything worked fine..that is the kind of deal to buy,and I see many go for a lot less (3/4 tons,not 1 tons with D60's and 454's!)..

The junkyards here usually get between 300 and 500 bucks for a pair of axles,but will often sell a whole truck for about the same money..especially older ones like we are dealing with--they just assume crush them,unless someone like you is willing to pay for axles,etc--then they will cut them out for you..anything 15 years or older, is just about always crushed as soon as they get it now..:doah: :crazy:
 
find a 14FF with 4.56's already in it. if you get a matching front use it or swap 8 lug hubs on to your 10 bolt front and regear it. as the money comes in put a detroit in the back.

thats how I did it. 35's a 700R4 and 4.56's is a nice setup. years later when I went bigger I swapped in a 60.
 
I vote that you look around, do somemore research and find out exactly what kind of deals are out there. Then add up all said expences and then go with the cheapest option.
 
gmc4cw said:
find a 14FF with 4.56's already in it. if you get a matching front use it or swap 8 lug hubs on to your 10 bolt front and regear it. as the money comes in put a detroit in the back.

thats how I did it. 35's a 700R4 and 4.56's is a nice setup. years later when I went bigger I swapped in a 60.
Yea, thats whats running through my mind now. If i can get an 8 lug 10b for free, I can just regear that, and put it in, or just use the outers...

How hard is it to regear??

Also, what should i expect for a 14ff with 4.56s? or one from a cucv with a detroit?will they bolt right up?

As mentioned in my other thread, if your running 4.10s with a 700r4, you should use 3rd gear for under 45 MPH, and OD for above 45MPH...would this apply to 4.56s as well???
 
Chevy305 said:
I vote that you look around, do somemore research and find out exactly what kind of deals are out there. Then add up all said expences and then go with the cheapest option.
Well, from the little research I have done, it looks like option 2 is going to be the cheapest, depending on the deals i can find.....
 
BIGBLAZE433 said:
Well, from the little research I have done, it looks like option 2 is going to be the cheapest, depending on the deals i can find.....

Ya like I said before, pick yourself up a "Want Advertizer", its got all sorts of GM truck parts in there. Some for real cheap too!
 
BIGBLAZE433 said:
Yea, thats whats running through my mind now. If i can get an 8 lug 10b for free, I can just regear that, and put it in, or just use the outers...

How hard is it to regear??

Also, what should i expect for a 14ff with 4.56s? or one from a cucv with a detroit?will they bolt right up?

As mentioned in my other thread, if your running 4.10s with a 700r4, you should use 3rd gear for under 45 MPH, and OD for above 45MPH...would this apply to 4.56s as well???

when I got mine I paid $300 for a 14/44 combo with 4.56 gears and a 205 and both driveshafts. sold the 205 for $200. the 14bolt out of a 3/4 will have the right spacing on the spring perches. regearing should be done by someone with the right tools and knowledge. make sure you help/watch so you can pick up some things.

as far as not driving in overdrive. I let the trans choose what gear its in. never really had a problem with the trans hunting between drive and overdrive with the 4.56 gears.
 
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I'm NOT being critical on ya BigBlaze. I know it's a tough call...

It is my observation that this particular topic seems hashed out time and time again. Why? Is it that hard to
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and go for it? IMHO the 10B/D44 vs. D60/14BFF debate is like
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.

Any combination of axle change, whether it be 6 to 8 lug, 10B to D44, or move up to a D60, is going to mean a change in wheels. Going up in tire size is going to mean a change in axles too! I am of the mind-set: do it once, do it right. Never mess with it again, except for maintenance. Why spend the
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on a 10B or even a D44 when you can invest in a D60???? Spend your hard earned cash smartly! You've already had to repair those 10B's twice! That's exactly the reason why I invested in a D60 and 14BFF to begin with!

I say, invest in your rig, get the D60, get the 14BFF, and get the new socks and shoes! It'll make your rig perform so much better, be more reliable, stoudter, save you $$$ in the long run and if nothing else, you can join the crowd!
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is where itz at bru-tha!

Pull the trigger!

That's what I've learned from Y'all!

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Manny
 
Last edited:
BIGBLAZE433 said:
So, since I`ll be in the market for new tires in the next couple months, I decided it was time to do a little upgrading. Now, I`m having a heck of a time making up my mind, so here goes: I`m going to 35s. Right now I`m running 1/2 tons, and this is my second set of axles I`m running. My first time out, I blew a spider gear up front, and in the rear the whole pinion backed off. So now i have a somewhat rebuilt 10b up front, and a 10b posi out back. But since I`m going up in tire size, I want to have more strength. I definitely want to lock the rear, no question. But the big question is, should i go 1 ton or not with only 35s...The wheeling around here is mostly mud, with some trails that may have some stumps, rocks.....
I have to agree with MuddinManny. I made up my mind some time ago about the 14ff/d60 combo and it is the way to go. I have had the 1 ton stuff in the past (pickups,tow rigs), and that kind of strength and reliability is great to have!
 
Go with the 14 / 60. You should be able to find them way cheaper in the mass. area than other places. When I was looking for a 60, I was going to have to pay upwards of $1200 for one out here in CO. Back home Diesel4me helped me find one for $300. (I ended up paying $600 for it because someone was about to beat me to it :mad:) but even after having a friend tow it back out here (another $100) that was way chedaper than buying one here. The idea you get about 1-ton running gear on this site is that it's extremely espensive...but that's because most of the people on this site don't live in the northeast (where 4 wheeling isn't as prevelant, so demand is not as high for 1-ton gear).

Just look around and have cash in hand. Even with 35's I'de be running 1-ton gear, just for the peace of mind!
 
Nobody is going to tell you that the 60/ 14FF is NOT the way to go, it is the best, hands down, if you can afford it. You could probably find a pair for $1500, but realistically, you're probably going to be in the $2000+ range ready to go under the truck. Built 60/ 14 combos come up every couple of months in the classifieds. Many complete K30's go for this kind of money too, and usually include many other good parts too.

However, you have stated that you are on a budget, this is your DD, and you don't want to run tires larger than 35's for now. 3/4 ton axles are available for a hundred bucks each. If you can't find a set in 4.56, regear what you can find, or if you must, settle on 4.10's for a while and keep your tranny out of OD.

You can shave 3/4 and 1 ton front calipers to run 15" wheels.

If you really want to keep your 6 lug wheels, billet adapers are available for the 14FF that allow you to keep your 6 lugs, but they cost as much as a set of 15" steel wheels, so why bother?

If you're set on doing the 14SF, I would find an open diff 8-lug model that will bolt in, or a wider van housing, then get aftermarket 6-lug axleshafts and add disk brakes. Throw a Lock-right in it and be done. Full carrier Detroits, etc., are available too, but pricey ($500+). Regear it if you have too. It will be cheaper to build a FF, but a built SF with disks would be quite a bit smaller and lighter. Regear your front to match, and you should hold up fine with 35's.

One tons are nice, but for moderate wheeling on 35's they are way overkill. If you are out breaking stuff that's one thing, but you don't need them to have a capable offroad vehicle.
 
OK Here goes. I know that some of you think 1 tons are over kill, especially with 35s, and the mild wheeling I do. But with 1 tons and 35s, I KNOW that when i go out there, I could get stuck, bad, and I could have the piece of mind, as B to C said, that my axles will be fine when I get pulled out.

So heres the plan, if you dont like it, tell me why!:D

Save up 5 - 600$, ( I already have it, but its for my tranny I still havent picked up), then with that, pick up a cucv rear end, 14bff with detroit...

then, If i decide to put it in my truck before i get the front, just put 8 lug outers on my 10 bolt, so i can get the new wheels/tires.....

Then, unless if I found a set cheap, start saving for a D60 with 4.56s....

Maybe now I wont be such a fo(kin pu$$y when I`m wheelin:D
 
BIGBLAZE433 said:
OK Here goes. I know that some of you think 1 tons are over kill, especially with 35s, and the mild wheeling I do. But with 1 tons and 35s, I KNOW that when i go out there, I could get stuck, bad, and I could have the piece of mind, as B to C said, that my axles will be fine when I get pulled out.

So heres the plan, if you dont like it, tell me why!

Save up 5 - 600$, ( I already have it, but its for my tranny I still havent picked up), then with that, pick up a cucv rear end, 14bff with detroit...

then, If i decide to put it in my truck before i get the front, just put 8 lug outers on my 10 bolt, so i can get the new wheels/tires.....

Then, unless if I found a set cheap, start saving for a D60 with 4.56s....

Maybe now I wont be such a fo(kin pu$$y when I`m wheelin



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:haha:


Go for it!

Manny
 
Will the spring perches have to be moved on a 14bff out of a cucv to put it in my blazer?
 
Well, talked to the guy I bought my truck off of about the guy with the D60s, and he told me to not even bother with the guy, because he buys them and then sells them in like GA and other places to make a profit.....
 
You will have to move the perches on a 1-ton rear, a 3/4 ton rear will bolt in. The Dana 60 is the best way to go, I'm just saying that such an upgrade is overkill unless you're actually breaking stuff already. You can pick up used FF's for $100, a Detroit runs about $425, Disks another $250 or so. If you wait long enough you can find 'em used and built, but it may be awhile. Make sure if you get an axle that doesn't have a Detroit in it that it's open, the Detroit installs inside the open carrier. Make sure you shave the FF before you install it, you can take 1/2-1" off the bottom of the housing to help with clearance. The 8-lug outers are pretty easy to find to, for a couple of hundred bucks, so that you can run 8-lug til you have enough in the Dana 60 fund.
 
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