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I've finally completed my pulley hoist! *New system started 8/1/09! More pics!

More pics, routed the rope through...I can grab both ropes at the back and lift the top myself. I kept thinking that the top was this huge weight that would totally destroy my system if I didn't build it to the tee. But it doesn't take much to lift it, really.

NewPulleySystem-8-6-093.jpg


NewPulleySystem-8-6-092.jpg
 
That marvel of engineering definitely beats my "guilt the next door neighbor to help" system I rigged up.
 
Done!

Ok she's all done. :) I'm happy. Top is off and I can finally drive my Blazer topless again at will.

PulleyHoist-8-8-091.jpg


I cut out the drywall in order to install wood braces for solid mounting points.
PulleyHoist-8-8-092.jpg


I couldn't find a suitable enough location to mount the hand winch and still be able to use the stock handle (by being able to turn it all the way around). So I just use a 1/2" ratchet to crank up the winch.
PulleyHoist-8-8-093.jpg


PulleyHoist-8-8-094.jpg


PulleyHoist-8-8-09.jpg
 
Damn! What'd you cut the sheetrock for? I would have just screwed a section of 2x6 OVER the drywall like the double stacked 2x4's on the right side for both the top casters and the handle down lower.

Now if you were to call a drywaller, namely me, I would be charging in the neighborhood of $150 - $200 to patch and smooth those holes out for you. Not cheap if you don't know how to do it.

Wanna pay for a plane fare for me? :D
 
Well the only reason I put those double-stacked 2x4s over there on the right side was to even-up the wall since there's a step in the back where the door is. I wanted the two pulleys (casters) at the back (that change the cable direction 90 degrees) to be even against the back wall. They both feed into that double pulley in the middle, so it's best that the cable has as straight a shot as possible. If I would have screwed 2x6 over the sheetrock I would have had a bigger deficit to deal with, the left caster would have been and extra 2" out. This would mean I'd have to add a third 2x4 on the right side to even things up, which I didn't want to do.

I wanted to cut the sheet rock so I could stick those 2x4s in between the studs and nail them in from each side.

Drywall repair? Meh... I'll patch the holes, mud up and sand the edges and paint over them. Done. This is my garage, not my living room. :D Doesn't have to be perfect.
 
awesome setup on first and second design.i saved the pics and am now subscribed in case you update more variation later.real cool man.
 
Colby for the crank, just make a 90 degree bracket out of plate and mount it to the wall.
There's an idea, I just don't have any offhand source for scrap angle iron or the tools to cut it/drill it, etc. I'll keep an eye out though maybe I'll stumble across something I can use. The ratchet works good for now, I only use this pulley system maybe 2 or 3 times a year so it's no biggie.
 
awesome setup on first and second design.i saved the pics and am now subscribed in case you update more variation later.real cool man.
Thanks. This will be my last variation for awhile. The first design was done in a garage we were renting from the in-laws. The second design is in our new house we just bought. We plan to be here for many years. :)

Just added this extra brace today for added support on the dual-pulley bolt.
NewPulleySystem-8-9-09.jpg
 
With as much effective reduction as you have by running the rope up and down through multiple pulleys as you have, it seems the winch is overkill and slow. Should just about be able to pull the ropes by hand then tie them off.

Slick system though!
 
With as much effective reduction as you have by running the rope up and down through multiple pulleys as you have, it seems the winch is overkill and slow. Should just about be able to pull the ropes by hand then tie them off.

Slick system though!
Before I installed the winch (I did that last) I could pull the top up off the K5 by hand, but it was still tough and required some grunting. :D
 
where did you get the black pulleys that look like a shopping cart wheel with a channel routed down the middle....I can't find these anywhere....
 
This is overkill for your project, but these things are so neat, and so underutilized, I wanted to post this here.

http://www.dutton-lainson.com/products.php?cat=19

There are lots of versions of these, some might be cheap and small enough for your use.
You almost have to use one to understand and appreacite it.
When you are winding in, it has the same ratchet that a regular winch has. But there is no way to release it.
Instead the ratchet contacts a toothed gear that is running on a screw thread. When the winch tries to turn backward, the ratchet holds the gear, and the screwthread tightens on a rubber brake.
The more strain, the tighter it locks.

To lower the load, you simply turn the handle backward. That unscrews the brake and lets the spool turn backward.
But, as it does, the brake is continually tightening.
So, if you let go of the handle, it stops instantly.

I had a 2000# one on a hoist I built, and was lowering about 1500#s of concrete statue. It was going down smoothly, and the guy who was buying the statue made the comment, careful, don't let the handle slip.

I promptly let go of the handle completely, scratched my nose and went back to lowering. Told him not to worry, I would never do anything like that.........
 
where did you get the black pulleys that look like a shopping cart wheel with a channel routed down the middle....I can't find these anywhere....



IIRC, those are casters, which he custom grooved for the purpose they serve. Its covered in the first design - I think someone else asked too.

My only concern with them is if the pop rivet holding it to the mount will continue to hold the weight - Although, its not like he's hanging his shell for the entire season - Its just for removal/install....... Right ??


Craig - Good job, again. When I saw your first design (back when) I sat and thought up your very same second design (My garage ceiling is finished also.). But I decided to go sideways for the winch reel - From the back of the shell, turn left or right 90* and head for a side wall, instead of the front wall. This will require an additional pulley obviously.

Whats the weight ratings for your pulleys and clips ?

Thanks for testing the design for me :whistle: Now I know my ceiling sheet rock isnt going to come down. :waytogo:




Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
 
Are there any issues with the pulleys not pulling evenly when you crank this? I set this up exactly as you have here and the rear pulleys want to pull all the way up before the front pulleys do. They don't pull evenly, does yours, or do you just adjust it as you fgo along?
 
Are there any issues with the pulleys not pulling evenly when you crank this? I set this up exactly as you have here and the rear pulleys want to pull all the way up before the front pulleys do. They don't pull evenly, does yours, or do you just adjust it as you fgo along?
Yes mine does the same thing, I just grab the rear of the top and periodically pull it down so the front levels as I crank it up. Getting the top to raise up completely level would probably require some complex geometry and engineering, and isn't really necessary anyway.
 
where did you get the black pulleys that look like a shopping cart wheel with a channel routed down the middle....I can't find these anywhere....

IIRC, those are casters, which he custom grooved for the purpose they serve. Its covered in the first design - I think someone else asked too.
Yes that's what they are. If I remember right I just removed the casters from their bracketry, put them in a vice one at a time and just ran a drill bit horizontally across the surface of the caster and spun it until I had the groove I wanted.
 
My only concern with them is if the pop rivet holding it to the mount will continue to hold the weight - Although, its not like he's hanging his shell for the entire season - Its just for removal/install....... Right ??
I do hang the top up there all summer long actually. Top goes back on for winter storage.

I never really thought about the pop-rivet (you're talking about on the caster, right?). The way I figured is that the tension at that pop rivet doesn't really represent the entire weight of the top, there are several hanging points throughout the ceiling that divide up the weight, not to mention additionally being halved since there are two casters up there. Also, when the top is up, I attach 4 nylon tie-downs to the top which hook to the eye bolts in the ceiling, in case the pulley system is comprimised:

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Oh yeah - I forgot about that.... :doah:



ToponHoist3.jpg



And, yes - I'm referring to the "pop rivet" holding the caster (and ball bearings) together. I dont think it will ever be an issue. I do see it as the "weakest link" of the system though - Not necessarily a bad thing or failure waiting to happen.

Re-visiting the pic above I notice you chose to change lift points. When you lifted your shell from the points above, did it lift evenly then ? Im asking because Im not a full vert, and it has me curious as to your lifting point change.


Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
 
Re-visiting the pic above I notice you chose to change lift points. When you lifted your shell from the points above, did it lift evenly then ? Im asking because Im not a full vert, and it has me curious as to your lifting point change.
Nope, the lift rate was still faster at the back of the top than the front, and I still would periodically grab the back and pull it down to keep it level on the way up. No change.
 

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