Jeep XJ Steering Shaft - Sweet upgrade!

[DK5]

Alright, cool. If you are going to do all the ball joints and then have it aligned, see if they can used the tapered sleeves to get it dialed in all the way. If you are paying for them to go into that far, get it dialed in all the way (caster and camber). Mine has also been "in spec" for the last 4 alignments too but because my Caster numbers were different from one another, it caused the truck to jog slightly to the side if I hit big bumps.

At $10/alignment check, it was finacially OK but taking the whole thing apart each time (axle shafts pulled and ball joints released)....it was a labor sucker. On a good note, I did get really good and pulling the whole front end apart each time .

Hopefully they will only charge you an extra $50 or so to get that aligned too (since they are in there already). MY shop wanted $100 extra on top of the alignment charge to mess with the upper ball joints.

Anyways, just my experience. Also, recommend doing all 4 ball Joints if possible. I'm sure the others can't be too far behind on replacement. And one last thing, probably change the axle shaft u-joints. Then you know that's all done up there.

Good call. I would do all the balljoints myself if I had the time. But I know that I had a couple replaced in 2008. I'll probably just have the shop do the balljoint and alignment and be done with it. I'll keep that tapered sleeve trick in mind for the future though. It would be sweet have the experience of taking the front end apart with ease-as you are able to (some day I will hopefully). 1 alignment will cost $90 or so. I can't remember what they are going to charge me for the balljoint. The steering box would have been $800

My front driveshaft u-joints are toast as well. Apparently its around a $500 fix to have it done at the driveline shop (thats with me removing the front driveshaft and bringing it to them) is that normal?

 

[jeff in co]

I have not done my front driveshaft ujoints so I can't comment there.

I did pull my rear driveshaft out and brought it to a driveline shop. They replaced both ujoints for $50 (including the part). They removed the old one and pressed in the new ones.

For the front "axle u-joints" in the axle housing.....they charged me $75 total with parts for both shafts. These were Spicer joints.

So based on that, I would say your quote is a little high....but I do think the front driveline has a CV joint so I don't know the specifics there. Hopefully someone will chime in.....

I found a coupon for $10 alignment checks so it worked out for me. Also, my wife and 3 kids are out of town now so I have the extra time.....

 

[496truck]

My front driveshaft u-joints are toast as well. Apparently its around a $500 fix to have it done at the driveline shop (thats with me removing the front driveshaft and bringing it to them) is that normal?

Too much. I got a whole new shaft made for $350. I would guess at $150-$200 in the high range to replace u-joints and rebuild the CV.

 

[DK5]

Your pictures are awesome.

I was able to start my project today. Steering gearbox from the 6.2 diesel is on the work bench. It looks exactly the same as the one in my '90 TBI.

I pressure washed it up and tried to bolt on my xj shaft from blazindorito. It bolted right up to the splines on the end of the gearbox.

The shaft looks shorter than the Chevy one though

No need for an extension of any kind? I guess the shaft telescopes so it should be good? There was no plastic or anything in there. I might put grease like you did though

Extension though?? or it just bolts right up??

 

[jeff in co]

Your pictures are awesome.

I was able to start my project today. Steering gearbox from the 6.2 diesel is on the work bench. It looks exactly the same as the one in my '90 TBI.

I pressure washed it up and tried to bolt on my xj shaft from blazindorito. It bolted right up to the splines on the end of the gearbox.

The shaft looks shorter than the Chevy one though

No need for an extension of any kind? I guess the shaft telescopes so it should be good? There was no plastic or anything in there. I might put grease like you did though

Extension though?? or it just bolts right up??

Mine bolted right up and I would say there was maybe another 1.5-2" of slack in the sleeve part for compression. I felt confident that I had enough stack (in both directions) that any needed movement would be there no problem. Hope this helps and glad it worked out for you.

Pictures help me a lot so I try and post what I do to help as much as possible. I certainly find my errors and hopefully solutions. I try to document my "problems".....

 

[riz]

I will be adding a 2" body lift to my K5 in the next couple weeks.......... If I was to find a XJ steering shaft, What mod(s) would I need to do to it to work with the new 2" body lift???

RIZ

 

[sweetk30]

same as fitting in reg non body lift truck.

i got one in my k30 with 2" body.

 

[riz]

Ok, so I'm still learning about the benefits of the XJ shaft........... Is it because it's stronger? Is it because it telescopes? Does it bolt right up to the K5 box and firewall ends with no mods? I'm thinking about it while I have my front clip removed. Thanks in advance.

RIZ

 

[jeff in co]

OK, it's been several weeks and my steering is/was getting worse. It felt tight initially but now, it just doesn't feel right.

I originally thought that maybe the inserts I melted just gave it too much play so I decided to go ahead and pick up another shaft from the junkyard. When I got home, I noticed that the one on my truck looked beefier than the new one I just picked up.... And I was a little frustrated. I decided to go ahead and try the new one anyways so I grabbed onto the steering wheel to get a better line on the bolt head and noticed that the steering wheel moved BUT, the shaft did not! Couldn't believe it really!

After further review, the old XJ shaft was different (no doubt) but it also had a small tab with some "stops" in it. What was happening was the steering wheel shaft was rotating until it hit the "tab stop". When I turned it the other way, the tab had to go all the way to the other side before engaging again. Because the truck was not running, it created enough friction to make that coupler rotate. I basically had about 5 degrees of slop in there if given enough force. So when I hit a large bump, it was enough force to make the steering wheel rotate slightly in my hand. Hopefully this makes sense but even better are the pics below.

The first two show the old XJ shaft I removed but had the tab stop in it. Each photo shows the amount of rotation in each direction.

The third shot is then second XJ shaft I installed. Much better and I would say it has definitely improved my steering! Believe me, I was really getting frustrated! Anyways, wanted to pass on that there are a few different versions out there. The last pic is the preferred one in my opinion.

 

[K85 Octane]

I've worked with both styles. Compress the rubber so that "tabs" are back into the main body. Then weld it up. When I did both mine, I welded all the ends. This way none of this will happen and I again tighten up any loose rubber points.

Your original one will work fine. Just push it back into the slot and put a tack weld on it. Look at the top end of mine. Even your new one has a chance of getting loose, or at least it's not 100% as tight as it could be.....till you tack weld the top piece to remove any rubber flex. AND no, I don't feel any vibrations after doing this.

 

[munepit]

OK, it's been several weeks and my steering is/was getting worse. It felt tight initially but now, it just doesn't feel right.

I originally thought that maybe the inserts I melted just gave it too much play so I decided to go ahead and pick up another shaft from the junkyard. When I got home, I noticed that the one on my truck looked beefier than the new one I just picked up.... And I was a little frustrated. I decided to go ahead and try the new one anyways so I grabbed onto the steering wheel to get a better line on the bolt head and noticed that the steering wheel moved BUT, the shaft did not! Couldn't believe it really!

After further review, the old XJ shaft was different (no doubt) but it also had a small tab with some "stops" in it. What was happening was the steering wheel shaft was rotating until it hit the "tab stop". When I turned it the other way, the tab had to go all the way to the other side before engaging again. Because the truck was not running, it created enough friction to make that coupler rotate. I basically had about 5 degrees of slop in there if given enough force. So when I hit a large bump, it was enough force to make the steering wheel rotate slightly in my hand. Hopefully this makes sense but even better are the pics below.

The first two show the old XJ shaft I removed but had the tab stop in it. Each photo shows the amount of rotation in each direction.

The third shot is then second XJ shaft I installed. Much better and I would say it has definitely improved my steering! Believe me, I was really getting frustrated! Anyways, wanted to pass on that there are a few different versions out there. The last pic is the preferred one in my opinion.

That the same thing that happened to me. I installed the same shaft with the tabs and it was worse than the rag joint. That third pic helped a lot. Thanks. I will ne heading to the junk yard to get the correct shaft.

 

[K85 Octane]

That the same thing that happened to me. I installed the same shaft with the tabs and it was worse than the rag joint. That third pic helped a lot. Thanks. I will ne heading to the junk yard to get the correct shaft.

save your time and money Jeff, just spot weld it and be done. I've got 1000 miles on mine with some nasty Gorman time too. Still straight as an arrow down the freeway.

 

[munepit]

Good thinking. Work smarter, not harder. That's a great idea. I will do that! Thanks bud! Beers are on me!

 

[jeff in co]

I've worked with both styles. Compress the rubber so that "tabs" are back into the main body. Then weld it up. When I did both mine, I welded all the ends. This way none of this will happen and I again tighten up any loose rubber points.

Your original one will work fine. Just push it back into the slot and put a tack weld on it. Look at the top end of mine. Even your new one has a chance of getting loose, or at least it's not 100% as tight as it could be.....till you tack weld the top piece to remove any rubber flex. AND no, I don't feel any vibrations after doing this.

No doubt, good solution but I don't have a welder or any welding skills. It sure looks like your method solves the problem....but why did Jeep put those in, in the first place?

Do our trucks just require more effort to rotate? Hence, moving around excessively?

In any case, I am so much happier I actually found the issue. I was really going nuts!

 

[Deuling]

Very helpful thread! thanks for the info and pics!

 

[chevyfumes]

Why not just use plastic or poly set screws if you have to replace the plastic?

 

[K85 Octane]

but why did Jeep put those in, in the first place?

Do our trucks just require more effort to rotate? Hence, moving around excessively?

I've found a few sloppy ones straight off Jeeps. It's just too easy to spot weld before putting it on. I don't have a welder either, but it's so simple and a good idea, that I paid for someone else to weld it.

you don't HAVE to remove the plastic, just heat it up and carefully collapse it till the length is right

 

[DK5]

Why not just use plastic or poly set screws if you have to replace the plastic?

Would that really work to alleviate the play that they have if the plastic has been melted off?

I installed mine without anything and it felt way too loose, so I took it off and reinstalled my stock chevy one. The XJ is just laying around in a pile of parts in the garage!

 

[sweetk30]

slopy play in shaft fix and still crash safe http://coloradok5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2500789&postcount=167

 

[DK5]

Don't have a welder and can't weld

That one in the link above sure came out nice though