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Jeep XJ Steering Shaft - Sweet upgrade!

if I recall the shaft that goes inside has to be cut down a hair or it bottoms out .

also since you melted the fixed plastic bushings to make it move its best to drill 2 holes and weld a nut on each to make a pinch point from the outer to inner so once its set and installed tighten them . or the shaft can wobble over time and give a little play .


If I do pinch points the shaft may not collapse under a collision and driver gets speered.
 
if I recall the shaft that goes inside has to be cut down a hair or it bottoms out .

also since you melted the fixed plastic bushings to make it move its best to drill 2 holes and weld a nut on each to make a pinch point from the outer to inner so once its set and installed tighten them . or the shaft can wobble over time and give a little play .

DO NOT bolt the sliding pieces together once installed. Doing that defeats the purpose of the collapsible shaft and could kill you in the event of a front end crash causing the steering column to go into your chest.

Also it is easiest to install the splined end onto the steering box first the pull the shaft up and onto the column end. The steering shaft DOES NOT need to be cut down, it is a direct swap after removing/melting the plastic rivets.
 
let me clear up my semi vague reply that 4x4high quoted so we are all on the same page here .

I didn't mean solid bolt together . pinch screw setup to take out the play of the D-shaft inside the D-tube . once you melt / remove the plastic pads there WILL be play .

drill 2 holes in the D-tube and weld near the tip that the D-shaft slides in . weld a nut on each hole . insert a set screw and lightly snug it to take out the play use long setscrew so you can jamb nut them also . then let the loc-tight setup and your good to go .

the point of the set screw will take out the play . but you don't have so much force on them to limit the shaft in the event of a accident .

do what you wish its your vehicle . . I am not trying to start a war on how to do this . but just stuff I have learned from installing them on my trucks and finding within a year of light use compared to most who drive them more than me . mine had play and was sloppy . I did this setscrew mod and perfect after .

4x4high is a very smart member here on this board and a valued member .
 
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let me clear up my semi vague reply that 4x4high quoted so we are all on the same page here .

I didn't mean solid bolt together . pinch screw setup to take out the play of the D-shaft inside the D-tube . once you melt / remove the plastic pads there WILL be play .

drill 2 holes in the D-tube and weld near the tip that the D-shaft slides in . weld a nut on each hole . insert a set screw and lightly snug it to take out the play use long setscrew so you can jamb nut them also . then let the loc-tight setup and your good to go .

the point of the set screw will take out the play . but you don't have so much force on them to limit the shaft in the event of a accident .

do what you wish its your vehicle . . I am not trying to start a war on how to do this . but just stuff I have learned from installing them on my trucks and finding within a year of light use compared to most who drive them more than me . mine had play and was sloppy . I did this setscrew mod and perfect after .

4x4high is a very smart member here on this board and a valued member .

Now I understand what you're talking about which should be fine. When I did my shaft I had no issues with the two parts of the shaft having and "play" and still don't to this day. I did take my shaft apart and there are (in mine anyways) 2 plastic strips that run along side the D to keep them snug and allow them to collapse properly without binding. I know I've read on here somewhere where people where removing those and THAT is where/why you'll end up with play.
 
Try not to melt these two bushings.

fyi: these are the plastic piece you don't want to melt.
1135.jpg
 

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