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RIPPEDK5

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I know this is a chevy site,

But i wanted peoples opinion on mid 90's jeep cherokees with a 4.0L as far as platform, strength (I know its unibody)..

I have been looking for blazers around my area with no avail. so ive been looking at cherokees.. a decent alternative? or should i look at something else
 
RIPPEDK5 said:
I know this is a chevy site,

But i wanted peoples opinion on mid 90's jeep cherokees with a 4.0L as far as platform, strength (I know its unibody)..

I have been looking for blazers around my area with no avail. so ive been looking at cherokees.. a decent alternative? or should i look at something else
Click to expand...
Cherokees are good platform, different concept as you mentionned a unibody.
 
Seems Blazers are a rare unit in the northeast (that arent rotted to nothing) so i ve been looking at the jeep cherokee, or the toyota pickup

there are a few jeep cherokees that are lifted and look cool...i would want to run a tire 33" to 38".. I know the dana 30/35 arent very strong what would have to be done to them or is it worth it
 
RIPPEDK5 said:
Seems Blazers are a rare unit in the northeast (that arent rotted to nothing) so i ve been looking at the jeep cherokee, or the toyota pickup

there are a few jeep cherokees that are lifted and look cool...i would want to run a tire 33" to 38".. I know the dana 30/35 arent very strong what would have to be done to them or is it worth it
Click to expand...
run a 33 or 35, you will do fine.
 
is the jeep platform better then the toyota pick up?

is there anything to know about these jeeps? common problems?
 
yeah I had an 85' SR5 pickup, was great but lack on power.

that was one of my options, cause i like the solid front axle and the front leaf springs/ gear driven transfer case.


my idea of a 4x4

Jeep or 'yota

-33"->38" tires

8" or so lift

body protection,
locker
frame bracing (since the frames rot)
body protection

then go wheeling
 
Not much bad to say about mid-90's Cherokees. The 4.0l I6 is a tough engine. Uni-Bodies are definently a con to these trucks. Auto transmissions are fair, not wildly tough, but not weak like Ford's A4LD.

Just to throw a curveball, what about a 2dr Explorer sport 4x4, find one with a 4.0 and 5 speed (which most are) and they can be pretty capable rigs. (Other than the IFS setup)
 
there are a few jeep cherokees that are lifted and look cool...i would want to run a tire 33" to 38".. I know the dana 30/35 arent very strong what would have to be done to them or is it worth it[/QUOTE]

33" tires are your best best with the stock 30/35 axles. 35"s can be done with a few upgrades if your easy on the throttle... If your gonna keep those axles I would look into upgrading axle shafts and u-joints at the very least.
 
blackbronco92 said:
Just to throw a curveball, what about a 2dr Explorer sport 4x4, find one with a 4.0 and 5 speed (which most are) and they can be pretty capable rigs. (Other than the IFS setup)
Click to expand...

Or put that drivetrain in a bronco2. That makes a pretty cabable rig. Blazinzuk built one recently that looks kickass. And holy crap another person from MI!:woot:
 
If you're over five and half feet tall, forget about fitting in a Cherokee. I can't even close the door on them they're so tight inside. But then I am a six and a half foot tall ogre:whistle:
 
Unless you plan on one tonning and constantly plating/rewelding cracks in the unibody stay away from a cherokee.

a dana 30 front is great for 33, especially with shafts. Personally Id rather have a dana 44 with even 33s just for longevity sake and to know I can go to 35s with no issue. But you're not going to make any 38s other than skinny ones live on a dana 44, even with chromo shafts. And friggin forget that dana 30.


The toyota is a better platform. Just make sure you find one with a straight front axle or plan to swap it to one or you can forget running anything bigger than 33s.
 
Yeah im only 5'8"

the toyota i had, had more frame repairs, I did like the solid front axle truck, but it too is few and far between and if its not hacked, beat or rotted then it probably isnt in the north east

I have had my share of Fords with more headaches then a chronic high blood pressure patient.. So the Blue emblem probably isnt gunna happen

I dont mind puting some work and money into something.. whole engine swaps probably not gunna happen for years, so a sound platform to start with is a must..

A slight deviation was to get a k30 dump truck and get rid of the dump body, just cause it had the stout running gear, but if it isnt $5k+ or rotted then it isnt around here

so im guessing jeep is kinda it--even though im not a huge jeep fan
 
RIPPEDK5 said:
Yeah im only 5'8"

the toyota i had, had more frame repairs, I did like the solid front axle truck, but it too is few and far between and if its not hacked, beat or rotted then it probably isnt in the north east

I have had my share of Fords with more headaches then a chronic high blood pressure patient.. So the Blue emblem probably isnt gunna happen

I dont mind puting some work and money into something.. whole engine swaps probably not gunna happen for years, so a sound platform to start with is a must..

A slight deviation was to get a k30 dump truck and get rid of the dump body, just cause it had the stout running gear, but if it isnt $5k+ or rotted then it isnt around here

so im guessing jeep is kinda it--even though im not a huge jeep fan
Click to expand...

Hold out for something better.

A cherokee isnt structurally suited to be on anything bigger than 33s without a full frame plating. **** just starts literally tearing around mounts on the unibody frame. Then you weld it up and plate it and it just tears on the side of the plate.
 
dont let these guys scare you off. me and my friends have been wheeling xj's for a long time. they arent as bad as these guys say. if you have a welder and a drill, you can make and install the frame stiffeners for under $100. but they are needed if you twist it up alot. the rear of the doors on my 98' stick out a little more than they should.

long arm the front. truss the rf upper control arm to the axle. or loose the rf upper arm all together. the front d30 with good shafts is as strong as a low pinion 44. good enough for 35s with a sane driver.

they have real advantages on the trail. weight is one. mine only weighs 3850 with tools and winch. the wheelbase is about perfect too. a 2dr version will give you better visibility and "feel" roomier than a 4dr.

i would worry about rust more than anything. xj's rust out faster than any other vehicle i have seen. well....almost:whistle:


read this, post #11

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=289081&highlight=CHEROKEE&page=2
 
Biggest thing with a unibody is if you buy one already modded check carefully for unibody cracks. Even more carefully check panel gaps and if all the doors open and shut good, hood too.

38s on a lighter rig and a d44is very doable, chromo shafts, yes. I know several guys running 38s on 44s. Locked up, they do break every now and again but not on a regular basis.

Cherokees are a good base to start with bit too small for me but easily buildable
 
No a wrangler certainly isnt out of the question,


if that were the choice i think i would go with the leaf spring front version.
what is the difference in wheel base between a wrangler and a cherokee and a standard cab toyota?
 
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