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"Jerry Rigged" it to stop battery drain (any other ideas or help?)

S

Storm24m

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\"Jerry Rigged\" it to stop battery drain (any other ideas or help?)

Checked each fuze individually, no drain there. Checked the alternator, no drain there, checked everywhere else I could think of.....no drain there. Finally figured out that the drain was coming from that little wire attached to the main positive cable. Disconnect it and the truck won't start. I ended up running a toggle from it into the cab. Now I just have to remember to turn off that toggle every time I get out of the truck. Consequence if I don't......dead battery. But at least I don't have to pop the hood and connect the ground wire to the battery every time I want to drive the truck.
 
Re: \"Jerry Rigged\" it to stop battery drain

I thought the little wire- was the ground for the battery?

Brandy
 
Re: \"Jerry Rigged\" it to stop battery drain

You'll fry that switch. That wire can carry 50 plus amps.
 
Re: \"Jerry Rigged\" it to stop battery drain

I traced the wire all the way into a bracket by the fuse box where it splits into like 50 other wires and then runs all over the place, so I gave up. I'll probably dig into more some other time.

70--If it was going to fry the switch, would it do it right away? I thought about that when I was buying a the switch, but the highest I could find was 16 amps. If it wouldn't fry it it right away, how long can I expect before it does?
 
Re: \"Jerry Rigged\" it to stop battery drain

Storm, 70's right, most switches won't tolerate too much amperage thru them, best to install a relay before the switch.

Are you sure that this wire is what's causing the drain?
 
Re: \"Jerry Rigged\" it to stop battery drain

Did you check your alternator ? Sometimes when they go bad they get a short to ground that will cause a slow battery drain. One of the wires that hook up to that wire you are talking about should go to the Alt.
And as the others said there are enough amps going thru that wire to fry a toggle switch. You should use a relay
 
Re: \"Jerry Rigged\" it to stop battery drain

I always thought that little wire went to the starter solenoid. I could be wrong, though.
 
Re: \"Jerry Rigged\" it to stop battery drain

Same here, matter of fact i know (at least i ) it goes there.
 
Re: \"Jerry Rigged\" it to stop battery drain

You don't want unfused full batery voltage in your cab.
Repent and install a relay. You can use the switch you already installed in the cab..
Relays are really easy. You could have it installed in a matter of minutes and it would be much safer.
-- Mike
 
Re: \"Jerry Rigged\" it to stop battery drain

Is it ok to leave a relay on for a long period of time, In the idea of being able to run 12v to the back of the truck for accessories?
 
Re: \"Jerry Rigged\" it to stop battery drain

OK, this may be none of my business but I think installing switches, relays, wire nuts, disconnecting the battery are all ways of asking for trouble. It sounds to me like you have a parasitic draw. The easiest way to pinpoint the draw is the following:
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Install a test light between the negative post and the other end of the test light to the disconnected cable. If a draw is present the test light will illuminate. If you have a DMM you can use the amp scale and check for a draw over 32milliamps wich is unnacceptable. The test light will work though. Note: if the ignition switch is turned on, turn it off, everything should be turned off for the test. That includes a light under your hood or the door jamb switch closed. If everything is turned off and the test light is lit now you can locate the source of the draw. The first place to start is @ the fuse panel. Remove 1 fuse at a time. Check to see if the light goes out. Once you pull the fuse that turns out the test light let us know what circuit it was for and then you can pinpoint the cause of your parasitic draw.
 
Re: \"Jerry Rigged\" it to stop battery drain

I agree with YtseJam...get rid of the switch and fix the problem....as soon as you can. You already pulled fuses so now pull the wire off the alternator, then regulator (if this is on a '72 with an external regulator). There are also a couple of circuits that use an inline fuse that you may not have found yet. One may be the Blower circuit for the AC/heater. Another place to check is the instrument panel. There seems to be several places for unfused 12 volts in the older trucks. Good Luck!
 
Re: \"Jerry Rigged\" it to stop battery drain

YtseJam, where'd you get the spec for 32 milliamps? I thought acceptable draw was anywhere below 200 or so ( I have a 76), especially if there's a clock or head unit with memory, etc.
 
Re: \"Jerry Rigged\" it to stop battery drain

On a 76 you'd be lucky to draw 20 ma, 32 Miliamps applies to all vehicles even the new computer controlled vehicles and with an aftermarket alarm. Anything higher will cause battery drain over night.
 
Re: \"Jerry Rigged\" it to stop battery drain

Ok, sorry it took so long to get back. I was out of state for a week. I already checked all the fuses. I already completely disconnected the alternator. The drain is still there. The only wire I can't seem to completly trace runs into a panel of some sort and then splits into about 50-60 other wires (or so it looks). Any other ideas? This may be a dumb question, but what is an external regulator, and where would it be located? Also, which sort of relay should I use until I figure things out?
 
Re: \"Jerry Rigged\" it to stop battery drain

The external regulator if you have one will be on the left side of the radiator between the radiator and the fenderwell.
 
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