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JR's 91 K5 Modern meets Classic (NV4500 help needed)

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the 0.73 ratio is correct. I'm not sure what the 0.80 ratio is for, but it's not an NV4500.

So stick with the 2223 number.

I whipped up an excel spreadsheet with speed lines for each gear overlaid on a single graph. Then I created a tab for each tranny/gear combination I was considering. Made it really easy to see the difference between each combination. More useful than simply calculating the final tach reading at one particular highway speed.
 
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Dang that's a pretty cool plan, I just wanted to make sure long trips were doable. Some guys out there are like 5.13 on 33's with a th400 lol 6500rpm at 35 mph lol I don't want to be screaming it going down the highway
 
79bonanza said:
Dang that's a pretty cool plan, I just wanted to make sure long trips were doable. Some guys out there are like 5.13 on 33's with a th400 lol 6500rpm at 35 mph lol I don't want to be screaming it going down the highway
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I developed that because my trucks have 6.2 diesel engines, and the gearing rules are different for them. Conventional gearing advice isn't really relevant. My street truck runs about 1625RPM @ 65MPH (3.08 gears and 29" tires). Happy truck, happy driver. GM geared that truck well for cruising. In third, it's at about 2200RPM, and it's noticeably less happy (but much better at towing).

My plans for the other trucks involved changing out drive train parts, and I wanted make sure that I wound up happy on the road when I was done. Plotting out the options made it much easier to grasp the differences between available gearing options.


Maybe I'm just a visual person. Maybe I like numbers too much. Who knows? :dunno:
 
Haha nah I'm sure all that would make gear choices much easier. I just went the deepest gear I could with killing my highway gear.

I'm sure I'll get a lot more technical on my truck that will be my tow rig lol it'll be a highway queen basically lol
 
mckustomfab said:
I am hoping this is the case, I have this setup installed on my crewcab but it will be a few weeks before I get home and find out. I still have to get the rear driveshaft shortened to know for sure. I will let you know what I find out. Also i will see if I still have the part# for the parts i used to build my "custom" line.
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Is it odd to quote myself???:confused:

Just wanted to update you a little, I got to thinking (not much else to do at work) so i started searching for some information on the clutch master and internal slave cylinder. Here is what i found

- Chevy NV4500 and Chevy Camero's use the same internal slave cylinder
- Rockauto lists the master cylinder bore of the Camero at 11/16"
- Rockauto also list the '91 V3500 master cylinder bore at 11/16"

Now to me, in theory it looks like the square body master should have the proper bore to activate the internal slave. The only thing I am not 100% about is if the stroke of the two are close or the same. They appear to have similar stroke lengths. Hopefully shortly after I get home beginning of October I will get solid confirmation.
 
I believe if they have the same bore then they should be about the same stroke, if not it'll be a giant pain to shorten or lengthen the clutch pedal travel
 
79bonanza said:
I believe if they have the same bore then they should be about the same stroke, if not it'll be a giant pain to shorten or lengthen the clutch pedal travel
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I had given some thought to that, and if it turns out that the 85-91 master has too much stoke I think I have a plan...

Cut the rod from the master to the clutch pedal and trim it some, then thread both ends and put a adjusting sleeve with jam nuts. Then you would only need to adjust the clutch pedal stop on the pedal box.

I dont think it would be too bad, but im still hopeful that it works out without modification.
 
Yeah I was thinking the same thing, the only thing I worry about is the rod from pedal to the master is pretty cheap feeling metal. It may be hard to work with and get a good result with
 
Well I had to try it, I think it'll work with a threaded sleeve and some jam nuts, this was just a real quick test, I do not intend to use it on anything

image.jpg
 
Awesome! Good to know if I need to go that way its possible. Here is what i was going to use as a "adjusting sleeve". I dont remember its actual name but you can buy them at home depot.

$_35.JPG
 
Yeah that's exactly what i had in mind.

I was thinking of looking at pedal side and maybe putting just a larger pedal stop or something
 
If any one has a good pic of what the b piller mounts to at the base or how it ties into the floor braces that would be very helpful.

Also if anyone has a good picture of the tailgate post structures and how they all go together that would be nice. Both sides on mine are pretty rough
 
79bonanza said:
If any one has a good pic of what the b piller mounts to at the base or how it ties into the floor braces that would be very helpful.

Also if anyone has a good picture of the tailgate post structures and how they all go together that would be nice. Both sides on mine are pretty rough
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Can't help with the picture (mine is rotted out also), but it looks like you're making good progress. You going to do the tranny swap while that chunk of the floor is out? Having the extra access might come in handy. :thinking:
 
campfire said:
Can't help with the picture (mine is rotted out also), but it looks like you're making good progress. You going to do the tranny swap while that chunk of the floor is out? Having the extra access might come in handy. :thinking:
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That's actually not a bad idea but I don't have the trans yet lol

campfire said:
I do have some pictures of the tailgate in my M1009 thread. See posts #32 and #33.
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Thank ya sir, anything is helpful now.

I'm honestly surprised how well my truck handled and drove down the road. For only having rust holding it together and all the bushings being froze
 
79bonanza said:
Thank ya sir, anything is helpful now.
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Lemme know if you could use any other pictures. My rust bucket is just a little bit nicer than yours, but I am going to focus on the drivetrain first instead of fixing all the cancer (I'm redoing the ledge underneath the passenger seat and ignoring the rest). I'm going through a similar NV4500 swap right now, so there might be useful pictures for you as the build progresses. Unless you are faster than I am, then I'll probably be watching your pictures. Haha. :rofl:
 
Yeah the only reason I'm doing body stuff now is because it cost less lol I'm buying a house right now so all my money is being spent on stupid house stuff lol

I'd be okay with a bed fridge and stove, but dang women have to have all that frilly nice stuff lol
 
79bonanza said:
Yeah the only reason I'm doing body stuff now is because it cost less lol I'm buying a house right now so all my money is being spent on stupid house stuff lol

I'd be okay with a bed fridge and stove, but dang women have to have all that frilly nice stuff lol
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Haha. Yeah, my build is on hold for another month at least, as we're rebuilding a house right now. I have roofing and siding to complete before winter, and we've already had our first light frost! :eek1:

I feel your pain. But it's alright. Having a place to live sure beats the alternatives.
 
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