Looks sturdy
CK5
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JUMPPR's '75 Blazer-con build
- Thread starter Jumppr
- Start date
Got my Dakota Digital HDX gauges today.
Finally got around to getting my 203/205 up in it. My father in law fabbed up this piece that bolted to the doubler foot and slid in to the jack. The whole damn thing took about 20mins to get it up and bolted together. No swearing or blood drawn…It practically put itself in!
I've been researching all the different doubler crossmember ideas I can and I have a question.....My father in law says he can whip up something real quick using some more of that 1/2" flat bar that he made the floor jack mount with. Is that a bad idea? So far all the different stuff I've looked at has been done with square or round tube. He's pretty handy and has built a few VW's since I've known him, but this just doesn't seem like a good plan since I've never really seen anyone else do something similar.
The bigger question is how he intends on using the flat bar. If it was ran flat under the t-case/trans from rail to rail, no that's not adequate by itself IMO.
I like using angle iron along the frame rails (bolted to the rails) and some sort of tube running under the t-case/trans with tabs and poly mounts.
I like using angle iron along the frame rails (bolted to the rails) and some sort of tube running under the t-case/trans with tabs and poly mounts.
Thick flat bar can work if it's braced correctly, it just typically weighs a lot more to make it strong enough vs tubing.
This is what I was thinking. The whole set up is already heavy enough without adding more weight for something that could be done with less. Someone on here has one made with square tube and I think that's what I'm leaning towards.
Mine is all square tube however my cases are above the bottom of the frame rail. Really easy to use square tube in that situation.
I made some headway getting the drivetrain installed.
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I need to try clocking my transfer case in the other position to see if it’ll let me get it higher into the truck. Right now my angle is at about 10 degrees and there’s no room left to raise the rear of the transfer case.
Who’s done it? - Cable shifter NP203/205 Doubler
The more I try to make the linkage work on my doubler the more I think I’m gonna have to go with a cable set up. I’m running a 4l80 with 203/205 doubler. No one makes a bolt on 3-stick for that adapter (that I’ve found). I ended up modifying one meant for a TH400 adapter from ORD, but getting...
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I need to try clocking my transfer case in the other position to see if it’ll let me get it higher into the truck. Right now my angle is at about 10 degrees and there’s no room left to raise the rear of the transfer case.
For measuring purposes would a 2x4 block be about the same as new body mounts and 1” pucks? I want to see if that’ll be enough lift.
I would slide 1.25" pieces of wood between the existing body mount and the body. I'm not sure about K5's but the K10's have body mounts that vary in height.
I removed the body mounts completely and set it on 2x4’s at the corners. Best I could get the angle was 7 degrees.
I bought new body mounts and 1” pucks from ORD today. Once I have those installed I’ll probably end up cutting the floor a bit. Thought about getting a 2” body lift but I hate the way they look on Jeeps. If I can make it work I think reworking the floor will allow me to lift the center console to a more comfortable level also!
Got the ORD body lift and new body mounts on today. Was only able to get the case high enough for -5 degrees. I’m gonna cut the floor for the last -2 degrees. Should give me a ton of ground clearance and make the skid plate easy to build.
The beginning of the custom floor.
This angle is right about 3 degrees from the bottom of the trans pan. The Tom Woods site says 0-10 degrees and make up the difference in shims. I should be good to go here right? I’ve never had to do this before and I don’t want to have to do it again.
Ok since I’ve rotated the 205 down to clear the floor a little more I’ve now got a crooked adapter foot. Can I just add a < spacer to take up the difference?
Imo, the hardware being at an angle vs the straight crossmember will be a problem. Even if you make spacers to go between the adapter and crossmember the sleeves inside the mounting bushings plus the surface of the crossmember itself where the bolt head sits will resist the angle and want to be straight. I'd bet you'll be plagued with broken bolts.
How did you rotate the 205?
That looks like an early gen 1 ORD Doubler steel adapter, I'd rework the mounting foot so it's parallel to the crossmember.
How did you rotate the 205?
That looks like an early gen 1 ORD Doubler steel adapter, I'd rework the mounting foot so it's parallel to the crossmember.
The doubler adapter is from Jed’s Machining. I’m not familiar with the early ORD ones. Now that I have to cut the floor no matter what I’ll probably just rotate the 205 back up. Then everything is parallel again and the ground clearance is 100%
The adapter is drilled with two different mounting options. The first one is up 2 degrees so the 205 is basically flat across as well as the mounting foot.
Well, I got laid off last week so I’ve been doing a lot of job searching and some work on the K5. Luckily the majority of the expensive parts and pieces have already been bought and now I’ve got time to work on it.
I made a sheet metal break and bent up a piece of 16ga for the floor so the shift linkage has room. I used some self-tapping screws to hold it in place while I make sure the seat is gonna clear.
I made a sheet metal break and bent up a piece of 16ga for the floor so the shift linkage has room. I used some self-tapping screws to hold it in place while I make sure the seat is gonna clear.
