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Just bought a K5 for 280 mile daily commute.

My 91 has 3.42s and Im running 32/11.5s I think if I had 3.73s id get a little better mileage. It unlocks the converter alot pulling hills.

On my 6.2 C10 when I turned my pump up for more fuel delivery I actually got better mileage because once its locked up it RARELY kicks back down.
 
tRustyK5 said:
The 6.2 was offered in the K5, Suburban and Crew Cab right up til '91...it was a factory offering newer than what oyu currently have so that should be cool with the smog nazi's. My 6.2 pick-up gets me 25 mpg all day long, no computer, no sensors to fail, 100% mechanical. I'm certain the 6.5 was not intro'd until 92 or later.

Rene
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Yup Rene you are right. I was thinking the 6.5 came out before 91. But wrong again:D. They came out in 1992. Before that all were 6.2.
I have been researching the 6.5(i have a post in the diesel section) I am thinking about buying a GMC 4x4 with 6.5.
6.5 get pretty good MPG also. Better than TBI. I cant believe it.. I am talking myself into a rattler.

Back on track... Again my question on the bolt on exhaust system.. is there any good ones?

Also Thunder, are you running stock axles or a better setup? Is 3.73s ideal for fuel economy on 33's? I'm running 3.42s on my '90 (stock/33" rubber). My TBI has a mild comp cam but pretty much stock other than that. I'd like to make it run more efficiently as well
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The Edelbrock TES is a bolt on system that replaces the stock manifolds with shorty SS headers, and the stock y pipe with a high flow y pipe. It is a stock bolt in replacement up to the cat convertor. It is a good solid system. Mine is 10 years old and never a leak. The headers are stainless steel so you dont have to worry about rust.
From the cat back:
Flowmaster makes a good cat back bolt on system for K5s that works good.

I am on stock 10 bolts with lockers Front and rear Yukon shafts in the back. I dint know if it is ideal but 3.73 works good for me.
 
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I think there are some threads on them in the garage or the lounge. A few years back some of the CK5 members were experimenting with them. I think the conclusion was they did not really work very well. Small MPG increase but not worth the hassle.
 
Pretty much evrything recomended in the FSC forum post linked above. Is what i recomended in my first post in this thread.
IMO you dont need the MSD 6al box. Window dressing. Also needesly adds more wireing and one more componet to fail.
The MSD blaster coil is all that is needed. I run my plug gap at .047
 
bu2chlc said:
I don't think 6.2's were made after my model year '89. the "new" motor that i swap in must be newer than the vehicle it goes into. I have 4.10's with 33's so the gearing is stock final ratio. too low and it screams on the freeway (almost 100 miles is high speed freeway), and too high would make it lug during the stop and go getting out of downtown LA. There is no "right answer" for this. I think swapping in some 33x10.50s would help a little along with synthetic fluids. Would a hotter ignition help or would it make the computer go nuts?
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My 90 has a 6.2. The 6.5 non turbo was used for a few years in the newer style trucks, followed by the 6.5 TD. Find a good late 80s-early 90s 6.5 without a turbo, throw a banks turbo on it and call it good. Or find a 6.5 TD and drop it in.

Oh, and I pull 14-15 mpg running 5.13 gears, one ton driveline 39.5" Iroks, in a SUburban
 
It looks like a lot of work to swap. I would rather swap my 14bolt/d60 and lift kit to a diesel k5. With a buddy I could probably swap everything in a long weekend.
Is a diesel swap as involved as I think it is?
 
You might eb better getting a diesel powered K5, but the swap really isn't that complicated since all the pieces already fit.
 
With your 1 ton running gear gas milage will never be your friend. You are packing a ton... Well almost of extra weight. 1 14bff weighs about the same as 2 10 bolts just by itself. Then you are adding a heavy D60 in the mix. So as far as weight is concerned add a couple more 10 bolts up front.
IMO if all you are running is 33s and want to up MPG go back to 10 bolts.
I run 10 bolts with 33s in my k5. Locked on both ends with no problems. As long as I use my power with the the few brain cells i have left, and with a light foot. My k5 will go anywhere I point it. Without breaking anything.
But you have already built your k5. the diesle swap isn't all that hard. Many here have done it.
I just bought a GMC K1500 with a 6.5 L56. Lovin the MPG!! Quite a bit better than my TBI K5 350...And the power cruizin up the steep hills:thumb:.... Makes me smile.:D
 
You need to get onto 2 wheels:
For less than $6,000 you can get a brand new Kawasaki KLR 650
You will get well over 40 miles per gallon and have better off-road ability coupled with the ability to get out of an urban disaster zone much quicker. The KLR has good road maners and can still handle a rough road. It is one of the true good dual sport machines (outside of the expensive Euro exotics).

Look at the numbers on gas.
K5 at best is 15mpg. 280 miles @ $3/gallon = $56/day.
KLR easily 40mpg. 280 miles @ $3/gallon = $21/day

KLR saves you $35/day * 250 commuting days = $8,750 annual savings. This will more than pay for the bike, insurance, and parts for your K5.

Now if you factor in wear and tare, tires, oil... it just makes more sense.
70,000miles of commuting per year is insane! That would just beat the crap out of your K5.

klr1.jpg

klr2.jpg
 
High desert where I live= 20 degrees in the winter and 115 in the summer. I am a computer consultant to I am always carrying around spare parts and OFTEN carrying new or repaired computers with me. I bought a clunker diesel and I am in the process of swapping all my goodies from my gasser to the diesel. I appreciate the input. It looks like a bike I might to get to play around with out here in the tumbleweeds!
 
Another option would be to just leave your K5 on the work side of the fault and get a cheap commuter. If/when the "big one" comes, you will have the K5 available as your escape vehicle to get home.
 
That sounds like an option also. I am looking up the kawasaki right now. that sucker looks like too much fun for commuting. I think I would end up "testing" it frequently.... ya know, just to make sure I can get back to my family! Oh, the shortcuts I could find with that little toy! Used, there are a few bikes around $4000, that seems REALLY low.
 
KLRs are ok if you like to ride at the mall. If you want a real off road bike that is street legal. Get a KTM 640 LC4. You can pick up nice ones used for 4K.
I will sell you mine for 4K:D
deer 028.jpg

deer 028.jpg
 
What makes it better? I don't know too much about bikes.... after all, they dont have np203, np205 or nv4500 stamped anywhere on them. It also doesn't look like I can fit a dana 60 in the front.
 
A KLR or Suzuki DR or any of the Jap bikes are mainly street bikes with a few mods so they will get you by off road... Kinda like a IFS truck with a lift.
The KTM LC4 E is a Motorcross/desert racing bike tamed up a bit for the street. They handle very well off road. Plenty of power. I get 45 MPG
The suspention is infinatly adjustable for how you ride. They are built strong.
They even handle well on the street if you use dual sport tires. I have DOT knobbies on mine because the street is just a place i have to ride on till i can hit the dirt.
But i do do some long rides on the street too. I am a member of a adventure rider group. We meet in various places all over Nevada. Camp out and ride/explore the back roads for a weekend. Then ride back home. Its a blast!
Besides how can you say no to a bike that is Chevy Orange!
 
I personally ride a Ducati ST4s and agree with everything you say about the KTM. In fact that is the first bike I thought of here, but to me, the KLR makes more sense for a 280 mile commute - parts and maintenance...
 
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