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Just installed lift, funky vibration, need help. (please)

N

NerdBoy

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I put a shackle flip on the back, and now, only under power, I get a nasty vibration. I am thinking that it is my rear driveshaft...
I looked at it, and the pinion angle is waaaaay off. In fact, the pinion is almost pointing right at the transfer case. I added 5* shims when I did the lift, but they weren't enough.
I assume that the easiest fix here would be to get a CV joint driveshaft. This brings about my questions:
1) is there a cheaper way to fix the angles? My wallet was completely drained from the lift
2) is there a way to put a CV driveshaft on a 208 transfer case, without breaking the bank even more?
Thanks for the help.
 
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In fact, the pinion is almost pointing right at the transfer case. I added 5* shims when I did the lift, but they weren't enough.


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Dont you want the rear pinion yoke pointing right at the transfer case? Maybe you shimmed it too much? /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
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In fact, the pinion is almost pointing right at the transfer case. I added 5* shims when I did the lift, but they weren't enough.


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Dont you want the rear pinion yoke pointing right at the transfer case? Maybe you shimmed it too much? /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

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you want your pinion to be parallel to the output of the Tcase, unles you have a Double Cardan setup (AKA C/V shaft)
 
I don't want it pointing that high. I used the shims to point the pinion down, actually, as it was pointing above the transfer case.
 
The Spicer Company recommends no more than 3 degrees of operating angle. You can get a degree angle finding tool pretty cheap from a place like Sears, in order to make sure you know what your driveline-operating angle is instead of just guessing.

Another thing you need to make sure of is that your drive shaft is not too short. If is barely hanging off the end of the transmission tail shaft, then you will get vibration.

Also, was the drive-shaft bolted back on in the same position it came off?
 
You want a long slip yoke/Cv setup out of a Cadillac 400 turbo application. It's what I have and it's smooth sailing.
Blake
 
I am guessing that it is more than 3 degrees, although the lift was only about 5 inches. I just figured that the very different angles between the two ends were causing most of the problems.

Driveshaft is long enough. It isn't more than 1/2 inch or so further out of the tcase than it was.
Also, I didn't take the driveshaft off for the lift.
 
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You want a long slip yoke/Cv setup out of a Cadillac 400 turbo application. It's what I have and it's smooth sailing.
Blake

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Where would I go about finding one of those, and how much $$ am I looking at?
 
Have you dropped your t-case down wakeboard&4x4er had his dropped 1" running the same lift with no driveshaft vibration. The shackle flip only moves the rear of the axle down unlike a lift spring which which moves both the front and rear of the axle. So it doesn't affect the pinion angle as much.
 
There is an awesome driveshaft guy here in town that has a few laying around in his little shop. I got charged $180 to have it cut down, blanaced and a new yoke welded on with a new joint.
Blake
 
Are you sure you put the shim in the right way? If you put it in backwards, you will make the angle worse instead of better. Installed correctly, the small end of the shim will be pointing towards the back of the truck. Its just the opposite in most cases (when lift springs are installed), but the shackle flip requires you tilt the pinion down instead of up.
 
Yup, shims are in the right way for this. Big end at the front.
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There is an awesome driveshaft guy here in town that has a few laying around in his little shop. I got charged $180 to have it cut down, blanaced and a new yoke welded on with a new joint

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Where is this guy, and how do I get a hold of him? More importantly, where can I go to sell my body enough times to get $180?

It was suggested to me to try lowering my transfer case, so I will start there. Cheap stuff first, always. If that doesn't work, I will have to start a hunt for a new driveshaft. Maybe by then I will have hit the lottery...
 
Sounds like the cheapest solution is to drop the transfercase. I went with the CV shaft though, simple and I don't have to have any shims or spacers on anything. If you do get a CV shaft sooner or later , make sure the splines on the yoke that goes into transfercase run to the end of the yoke. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
3 degrees is a fine number for cars and stock trucks. In the world of lifted trucks, especially short wheelbase ones, 3 degrees is a pipe dream. The important thing is to make sure the T-case output and the pinion are parallel to each other. Note that lowering the T-case changes that angle by a couple of degrees. You may see more like 10-12 degrees. This is OK as long as the angles are the same, you keep everything lubed and there is no binding. Usually these things don't really turn to crap until you hit 15 degrees or so.
 
The easiest way is to put spacers between crossmember and frame. Most Blazers have long bolts and thick spacer washers on inside of frame rail, these spacer washers can be put in between crossmember and frame and use same bolts. I think it would be stronger though to get a stout piece of metal and put it between frame and crossmember. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
A guy near me made my shaft into a cv when I did my shackle flip and was having vibes for i think $75 or $80. Shop around and see if you can find anyone cheaper than $180 around you.
-Harrison
 
You also might need a SYE. There are a couple of guys that custom make them. Try Trevor over on Pirate4x4.com . He's a good guy...
 
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