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Just rebuilt my TH350...cake!

ak bandit

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I was quite intimidated with the thought at first. So I ordered a TH350 rebuild video off the internet. After watching the video all the way through 3 times, I was confident that even I could do it. It was a piece of cake...Minus a couple pesky snap rings. A handy tool that would have been helpful is the "cluth spring compressor tool". I just made do with what I had and it worked out. I used the B&M Master Racing Overhaul kit from summit.
I'm a little nervous now that it's all put back together as it has not been tested yet. I wont find out how it runs until my engine is all trimmed out. I'm confident though as I followed the instructions to the 't'...I'll post how she does when I get everything back in. Of course I just found out I have to go to Toronto until August for work. The K5 is once again put on hold :frown1:
 
I used one of those overhaul kits once and the manual that comes with it really detailed and yes the turbo 350 worked perfect the first time out.

I use their kits everytime I overhaul a turbo I also like the ability to select how you can set up the tranny for street, heavy duty, or drag while your doing the overhaul.
 
yea i ordered book+movie and rebuilt my last weekend. still waiting to put it in though to see if it works. one question i had though, my input shadft cannot be turned by hand, is this because there is no fluid in the case? you can turn it *okay* after you put the TC on, but without it you need pliers. maybe im just worring about nothing?
 
Hmmm...Mine is pretty hard to turn, but I can turn it by hand. I think you only have to worry if it doesnt turn at all. I'm glad I'm not the only one who's nervous ;)
 
ak bandit said:
Hmmm...Mine is pretty hard to turn, but I can turn it by hand. I think you only have to worry if it doesnt turn at all. I'm glad I'm not the only one who's nervous ;)
Yeah the input and output shaft should still turn. You should check endplay before and after rebuilding it. if you still have about the same amount of endplay moving the input shaft in and out, then you're good.
Did you make a clutch hub compressor tool out of some allthread and something else?
I just fixed my th350 last month, and i didn't have that clutch hub compressor tool to change the direct clutch piston seal... so i didn't change it and i figured it would either work or it wouldn't.
Well guess what seal i blew last weekend when my tranny got hot racing my friends out in the dunes. :crazy: I barely had 3rd gear the whole way home.. you can bet i wish i bought that tool to change that seal! If you didn't change the direct clutch piston seal because you didnt have the tool, i'd recommend buying that tool and installing a new seal. If that seal goes, your 3rd gear goes.
just my 2 cents.

Also, did you visit a local tranny shop for the 4 thrust washers that go in the tranny? Those are the only other part that doesn't come in the master racing overhaul kit. The very front thrust washer adjusts the input shaft endplay and they come in different thicknesses... so if you put a new thrust washer in that is too thick, that could make it have almost no endplay and really tight to spin.. i think endplay should be somewhere around .009-.025", I can't remember off hand.
 
i re-used all my thrust washers and torrington (sp) bearings. i inspected them per the criteria on the video and they all seemed okay, so i put them back in. the only part im not sure about is the teflon rings with the little locking tab things that go on the pump shaft. there are either 6 grooves and 5 rings or 5 grooves and 4 rings i cant remember. anyway i was not sure wich grooves had rings and which one didnt. the rings in question are the ones that are closest to the pump housing, only one ring is supplied and it fits 2 different grooves?? anybody know the story on this?
 
There are a total of 5 seals on the oil pump shaft inside the tranny.
The first three seals (closest to the thrust washer) measure ~ 2 1/8" OD (locked together), the other two seals towards the end of the shaft measure ~ 1 15/16" OD (locked together)

The 5 seals seal up 3 passageways... in between each of the seals there should be a groove with two holes in it for the pressurized fluid to go through. The seals are just on either side of that channel with 2 holes to seal it. make sense?
 

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