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Just bought a million items from RockAuto and LMC
I rebuilt the completely shot suspension that was just knocking around with the cheapest parts store shocks that my buddy and I had to mod pretty heavily to adapt to the mounts. The guy sold us “what the computer told him” on our cross-country trek from CA (where I bought the car) to NY, so when we arrived and started to try to put them on, the rears had a cross bar through the bushing instead of a hole. After several ideas, we just used the old shocks bushing to make it work LOL
Now, planning the lift/suspension from ORD and wheels/tires
2”Lift/33’s vs 4”Lift/35’s
posted that question in the main forum…
I rebuilt the completely shot suspension that was just knocking around with the cheapest parts store shocks that my buddy and I had to mod pretty heavily to adapt to the mounts. The guy sold us “what the computer told him” on our cross-country trek from CA (where I bought the car) to NY, so when we arrived and started to try to put them on, the rears had a cross bar through the bushing instead of a hole. After several ideas, we just used the old shocks bushing to make it work LOL
Now, planning the lift/suspension from ORD and wheels/tires
2”Lift/33’s vs 4”Lift/35’s
posted that question in the main forum…
Pictures?
33 10.50. 12.5 will rub on the inside rear fenders when turning over a bump. Plus I am not sure many tire shops will mount 12.5 on a 7" rim
The spot they rub is easy to fix. No cutting required. I'll get pics tomorrow if I can't find em tonight.
There's a pinch weld that needs bent with a rubber mallet or dead blow.
After that nothing will touch. Mine only did because I had 10" wide wheels and only 3.75" back spacing.
I'm told with that stock skinnys that it clears. But personally never tried.
There's a pinch weld that needs bent with a rubber mallet or dead blow.
After that nothing will touch. Mine only did because I had 10" wide wheels and only 3.75" back spacing.
I'm told with that stock skinnys that it clears. But personally never tried.
You can get 8" versions of the stocker's if you look around.
I know there's guys on here with 12.5"s on the stock wheels though.
Maybe they mounted them themselves...
It's actually pretty easy to mount new ones. What's hard is getting the old ones off.
Mounting a new set on bare rims can be done in a half hr/hr with nothing but soapy water and a pry bar.
Then just take em somewhere to get them balanced.
I know there's guys on here with 12.5"s on the stock wheels though.
Maybe they mounted them themselves...
It's actually pretty easy to mount new ones. What's hard is getting the old ones off.
Mounting a new set on bare rims can be done in a half hr/hr with nothing but soapy water and a pry bar.
Then just take em somewhere to get them balanced.
You can get 8" versions of the stocker's if you look around.
I know there's guys on here with 12.5"s on the stock wheels though.
Maybe they mounted them themselves...
...
Around here, there are used tire places with no corporate policies to bow to and they'll do it.
82325 had a thread showing different OEM rims, something about a safety bead iirc.
Let me dig up that thread, perhaps you'll feel more comfortable running what you have Skidoc and welcome aboard.
Edit... thought there was another one, but this came up.
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/16-5...ead-seat-ever-seen-these.345673/#post-4240618
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Go to a mom and pop store and you won't have any issues, I had a set of 14.5 wide tires on 8" wheels with nothing said about it.
I've ran 12.50s on 7" wheels forever. I wouldn't lose a seconds sleep over it.
Yes I have 285 75 r16 on 6.5" wheel. That is 11.2". Mom and Pop Llanta store mounted, they took great care of me.
Thanks guys! This is all new to me, I appreciate the supportive responses!
What is the actual concern with a width mismatch btwn tire size and wheel size?
I read a bunch of sites/forums (surprisingly difficult to pick search terms that yield relevant results on this topic) trying to understand why there are recommended wheel widths for tires. It seems safety is not one of them and neither is the actual connection btwn the wheel and tire.
Like mentioned above - getting the tire changed can be difficult, other considerations: losing a bead not an issue (in fact some offroaders said fewer issues even if airing down), the fit in the wheel well (dont think this would be an issue with a lifted Blazer and 33s), related to fit - the actual measurable width/appearance may be not an accurate representation of the tire size when installed on wheel widths outside the manufacturer’s specs
I am willing to buy new tires if necessary but would rather just keep the stock ones - for originality and luckily I do like the look. I would only switch for functional reasons if truly necessary or if having new wheels is safer.
What is the actual concern with a width mismatch btwn tire size and wheel size?
I read a bunch of sites/forums (surprisingly difficult to pick search terms that yield relevant results on this topic) trying to understand why there are recommended wheel widths for tires. It seems safety is not one of them and neither is the actual connection btwn the wheel and tire.
Like mentioned above - getting the tire changed can be difficult, other considerations: losing a bead not an issue (in fact some offroaders said fewer issues even if airing down), the fit in the wheel well (dont think this would be an issue with a lifted Blazer and 33s), related to fit - the actual measurable width/appearance may be not an accurate representation of the tire size when installed on wheel widths outside the manufacturer’s specs
I am willing to buy new tires if necessary but would rather just keep the stock ones - for originality and luckily I do like the look. I would only switch for functional reasons if truly necessary or if having new wheels is safer.
With the tire matched wheel the tire bead fits along the rim lip from top to bottom. A rim to narrow for the tire size, the bead may only make contact at to of rim lip, and wheel drum leaving a space between the bead and rim lip. If wheel is to wide the bead must have air pressure to keep the tire seated. A low pressure tire can have the bead seal let go.
To narrow of wheel and you might see more feathering on the edges of some tire patterns, esp aggressive off road type tires.
To narrow of wheel and you might see more feathering on the edges of some tire patterns, esp aggressive off road type tires.
I see, if the wheel is too narrow, the tire bead may not “reach” to seat fully down over the full surface area of the rim of the wheel, and if too wide it needs to “push out” further distance, which requires higher pressure to maintain contact btwn bead/rim to prevent leaking air…
Yes, good catch- I forgot to mention I read the wear pattern may change/be less desirable due to abnormal contact patch from the tire shape being out spec
Yes, good catch- I forgot to mention I read the wear pattern may change/be less desirable due to abnormal contact patch from the tire shape being out spec
