I see no fuzzy stuff anywhere on the truck, you need to fix that our its just not the same rig LOL
CK5
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K10: Built HP60/241-205 Doubler/tons of tube
- Thread starter Avery4jc
- Start date
I have the dash pad on the side of the house. Just can't bring myself to throw it away yet.
Some fuzz might have to find it's way back in somewhere...
Put the doors on today so I could drive around a little bit. It actually drives pretty decent for what it is. I'm getting a check engine light that's coming on and off, seems to be mostly around idle. I'll have to look into that this week.
I skinned the inside of the doors with some aluminum. I think it gives it a finished look and looks pretty cool with it all closed up.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Very nice Avery!
Looks awesome!!!!!
excusing myself
need new undies
need new undies
I love that you put the lower door panels back on.
Martin
Martin
Nice. I keep thinking about half-doors myself and your are definitely making me think about it more.
I was chuckling over them being carpeted -- this truck has to have SOME fuzzy, right?
And Martin, even *I* have lower door panels -- also blue, in fact
I'll be interested to see how the half-door performs. I found that I couldn't put my 6' frame far enough out the door to see the front tires. I suspect if I'd cut more out of the doors it would have been doable, but then it would be more like a quarter-door than a half.
-- A
I just drove it over to my grandma's house because she wanted to see it in person and developed a massive exhaust leak on the driver's side. Letting it cool down so I can check it out tonight. 
that's why we do shake down runs... you'll get her settled in.....
the rig is looking great.....
the rig is looking great.....
Oh I know, that's why I've been driving it every day. My check engine light kicked on yesterday. Seems to run just fine but I'll have to pull the code tonight and see what that's all about too.that's why we do shake down runs... you'll get her settled in.....
the rig is looking great.....
eh, Mutt throws a random EGR here and there, truck runs great...
Without knowing any details, my money is on EGR or O2.
Sweet build! So many good ideas.
Sweet build! So many good ideas.
Well I'm thinking my problem was one in the same. I blew out a chunk of the gasket at the collector on the driver's side which is right above where the O2 sensor is welded in. My code was for a lean condition at the O2 sensor. I'm guessing it could have had something to do with it.
I pulled off my stage 8 locking stuff and put a new gasket in (luckily I had spares on hand) and tightened it down. Warmed it up, waited then tightened some more. I'm going to pull the locking stuff off the passenger side and over the next couple nights do some heat cycles with tightening in between before I put the locking tabs back on the hardware. I should have done this from the beginning.
On another note I have a new "problem". It's not a biggie but it's annoying. I'm using an off the shelf starter solenoid that's triggered from the key. It powers one of those fuse panels that my gauges and the switches pull power from. It's not working about 50% of the time now. I hear it click every time I turn the key but it doesn't energize the output every time. If I just leave it and drive eventually it'll kick on and the gauges and other stuff come on. I felt it tonight and it was kind of warm.
Are these solenoids not designed for continuous duty? I'm guessing not. What should I get that'll work in an application like this?
I pulled off my stage 8 locking stuff and put a new gasket in (luckily I had spares on hand) and tightened it down. Warmed it up, waited then tightened some more. I'm going to pull the locking stuff off the passenger side and over the next couple nights do some heat cycles with tightening in between before I put the locking tabs back on the hardware. I should have done this from the beginning.
On another note I have a new "problem". It's not a biggie but it's annoying. I'm using an off the shelf starter solenoid that's triggered from the key. It powers one of those fuse panels that my gauges and the switches pull power from. It's not working about 50% of the time now. I hear it click every time I turn the key but it doesn't energize the output every time. If I just leave it and drive eventually it'll kick on and the gauges and other stuff come on. I felt it tonight and it was kind of warm.
Are these solenoids not designed for continuous duty? I'm guessing not. What should I get that'll work in an application like this?
How much load are you pulling through it? I used a couple of 70amp relays when I rewired my K5.
Not much. Just the gauges and their lights, the CB and the little toggle switches that fire the relays. But the relays themselves, the computer and such are all on the constant hot fused buss bar.
I've been looking around and I can get a constant duty solenoid for pretty cheap off Amazon and a few other places. Might just go that route and see what happens. I'm thinking that has to be my problem, this one just isn't rated for constant duty.
This is the one I used: http://www.waytekwire.com/item/75680/SONG-CHUAN-70-AMP-RELAY/ and this connector http://www.waytekwire.com/item/75363/70-AMP-RELAY-CONNECTOR/
On my headers, I usually use a longer 3/8" bolt through the collector, and then double nut them.
Martin
Martin
That would for sure work but the way I have things wired I'm using the constant hot stud on the solenoid as a distribution point to power two other fused buss bars so I'd have to add a power distribution stud or something if I went with a relay. I'm going to stick with a solenoid if I can just for the simplicity of not having to change wiring on other stuff.
I have stage 8 collector bolts. They didn't back off at all, the gaskets shrank up after some heat cycles and then blew a chunk out because I didn't stop and tighten them when I heard it start leaking. I'm doing it right this time. Like I said I put a new one in and I'll heat cycle it over the next couple nights and tighten the bolts down each time then put the locking tabs back on. Should be good.
