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K10: Built HP60/241-205 Doubler/tons of tube

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On my K5, I found that having round "nerf" bars projecting out from the sliders saved my doors. One tight trail in particular I remember beating the hell out of the front fenders, spider-webbed a rear topper window, annihilated the tail lights, and the doors were untouched.

I remember dropping in I thought for sure the doors were goners and it was all my fault for being too lazy to get the tube doors swapped on. But the opposite happened. :doah:
 
Yeah I have had adding some tube to my sliders on my list since I built them. Guess I should get to that.

Oh and since I got home I've developed a big leak coming from the back of the trans and the adapter. I'm going to keep an eye on it and hope it's just some fluid that leaked out while wheeling and is just now seeping out. But if it doesn't stop I'm afraid it's going to have to come out to see what's up.
 
It's either the front t-case seal or the bolts have worked loose. Both are pretty common (for me at least).

At least your full size doors didn't get crunched.
 
andyblack said:
It's either the front t-case seal or the bolts have worked loose. Both are pretty common (for me at least).

At least your full size doors didn't get crunched.
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Agreed. After hearing kurt's horror stories about not using locktight RED on all doubler bolts I made sure all of my doubler bolts were locktighted and torqued. after the first couple of test, 2 bolts loosened up. I backed the bolt up a little, then more locktight. :thumb:
 
You know I haven't even checked them yet. I'll see what's up with it all tomorrow. I took this week off from the truck but I don't have anything going on tomorrow so I'll start going through stuff.
I need to get that door hammered back into a door shape again too.
 
Same thing happened to me. I was leaking a lot and went to redo the seal and all the bolts were loose. I tightened them and not a drop has leaked since then.
I still need to go back and put red locktite on them.
 
Well good news is it was just the bolts backing out. Bad news is the bottom two pulled the threads a little. I got some longer 10mm bolts and ran them in a little deeper into some fresh threads with some loc-tite. Top two are perfectly fine and weren't loose at all it was just the bottom two.

The leak stopped but we'll see how it holds up in the long run. Might have to pull everything out and heli-coil the bottom two holes if it doesn't hold. Let's hope not though. :)
 
If you had to could you not go up a hole size and retap? Hopefully it doesn't come to that tho, just thinking might be a touch easier than helicoil
 
Smokinthehippies said:
If you had to could you not go up a hole size and retap? Hopefully it doesn't come to that tho, just thinking might be a touch easier than helicoil
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I am assuming he is talking about the bolts to the aluminum adapter. If so then a heli coil is the stronger way to do it.

I have started to just heli coil everything aluminum before I put it in. It prevents problems
 
I'm talking about the bolts that go through the adapter into the back of the transmission.
 
blazinzuk said:
I am assuming he is talking about the bolts to the aluminum adapter. If so then a heli coil is the stronger way to do it.

I have started to just heli coil everything aluminum before I put it in. It prevents problems
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I have been doing that too. Good habit :thumb:
 
I think Helicoils are pretty much required if you're putting a steel bolt into a piece of aluminum. All the avionics chassis that I work with at work are aluminum and they always use Helicoils for every bolt hole. We have to replace them on a regular basis too, due to federal employess who love to cross thread fasteners. :haha:

Too bad you can't fit a split lockwasher or something on the bolts. Or do they already have captured lockwashers? It's been about a year since I had mine off so I can't remember. Seems like it was just shouldered bolt heads.
 
I had split lock washers on them from the get go. They didn't do anything so I ditched them and just used loc-tite this time on the bottom two.
 
I doubt it. That adapter is pretty tight to the transimission I think. Hard to even get a wrench in there. I wouldn't think there would be enough threads exposed to trust a stud and locknut setup. Could be wrong though. Maybe on the bottom ones? I just don't see it being any better.
 
With the bolt issue out of the way I figured I'd spend today going through stuff and addressing the door. We're going wheeling next weekend and I wanted it to be ready to roll so I didn't have to mess with stuff too much during the week.

Got the door open!


It DESTROYED the shape of the cab and the door itself was really tweaked. So after a lot of hammering, relief cutting, welding and grinding I got everything squared back up... and ya' know what? It actually fits pretty good! :)
It broke the latch and bent it all up so I had to run down to pick-n-pull and grab a new one. $17 well spent vs straightening and welding up the breaks in the old latch. So everything opens/closes again and the latch works. I'm good with that, everything else is just cosmetic.




Checked the u-bolts, steering arm studs/nuts, lug nuts, suspension bolts and anything else I could get my hands on. U-bolts were a tad loose but otherwise everything was tight.
I checked the steering linkage and both jam nuts were loose on my draglink but I noticed some scratches on the passenger side so I think it's taking a beating from the top of my passenger leaf spring pack. I'll need to address that eventually. When I was tightening those up I noticed it looked like a bit of play between the sector shaft and pitman arm. Not much, almost missed it but if you grabbed it you could wiggle it ever so slightly so I pulled the nut off and it looks like the nut was bottoming out on the threads just exactly when it was coming in contact with the face of the pitman arm.
So I grabbed a lock washer and put it in between so the nut would bottom out. Problem solved and it tightened it up. I guess when everything was so new it was crazy tight on the splines and I didn't notice.

Fired it up and took it for a drive, drove nice as usual so I rolled it back in the driveway and gave it the stamp of approval to go beat on it next weekend. :)
 
I can't remember if you changed anything with your steering recently, but if you had the steering arm off the knuckle, be sure to check the tightness on those nuts. One of the nuts loosened up on mine a while after I installed a new steering arm and I ended up sheering off one of the studs coming out of the knuckle when I tried to turn while the tire was up against something. If I had thought to check the tightness a couple of times, it wouldn't have happened. Just a friendly reminder.
 
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