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K30 to the frame...Front axle almost complete...Hydro Assist Install

I found a junkyard 2wd Chevy steering gear for $20. Stripped and painted it. Bought a threaded end cap and tapped the top cover. The front half of the frame was wire wheeled and coated with Por15. It paints a lot smoother and covers more area when thinned a little too. FYI, Por15 works only on rusty or treated metal. It peels like skin off a sunburn from shiny metal.

B52 brackets were painted and installed. I'm running stock 56" springs on all four corners. Picked up a set of springs for $26. Cant beat that. All the bushings are the same size. The engine mounts bushing will be the same size. I'm also thinking about fabbing up a transmission crossmember with sleeves for the same bushings. I want as many parts standardized as possible.

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The Dana 60 is all stripped & trimmed. I'm waiting for a 7/8 allen wrench to come in the mail to remove the old kingpins. $20 off Amazon. They are gnarled up pretty good. No wonder I was getting a little death wobble. Has anybody every actually died from death wobble?

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Bunch of painted parts. I thinned some por15 quite a bit for the rotors. I was told this allows it to hold up well to pretty high temperature. We'll see if it burns off.

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Previously rusty parts.

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Had to clearance the bumper to fit around the spring/radiator mounts.

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i like the black blue theme, im doing the same thing on my axles to go along with my big blue
 
82Scottsdale said:
what color of blue is that and what kind of paint did you use?
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The color contrast certainly does look pretty slick, though some would argue it just looks too pretty. :D

The blue is a rattle can Cadillac blue engine enamel from Eastwood. If you paint it over a well scuffed POR15, it is super durable. If you paints it over rattle can primer, it is weak.

In the future, I am just going to use a midnight blue polyurethane from TCP Global that is more durable and very close to the same color, which is going to be the body topcoat color also.
 
Nice build love the attention to detail. Gotta love POR15, after using it on my frame I'm a believer!
 
Thanks. I'll trade you frames though! I managed to get all the grease off my frame, and drilled out 95% of the rivets, but much of the surface rust is underneath the paint. POR15 bonds better that way anyway.
 
I painted around the spring perches and bolted the axle up. Its too hard to work on when loose.

Polished up the steering box cap and screwed on some fittings. I found 15 used JIC 6 reusable fittings on ebay for $48, which is a deal. The things go for $10-$15 a piece.


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The king pins were removed with the help of a 4' cheater bar and horizontal squats off the side of my garage. That is after drilling the center out to relieve some tension. Do not attempt to drill through them without cobalt bits as they are close to 2" deep.

I also welded on some shock tabs. I bolted them together using a 1/2" drive socket that was the same height as the shock eye width, that way they would be easy to mock up and stay square while welding. I'm thinking of using the old shock mounts for a limit strap. Could it be needed? How much travel can be gotten out of stock 56" springs with five leafs?

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The spring hanger hole was enlarged with a metal hand file. Took an hour to do both holes. Hole saws only work with with a center bit guide. The shackles are 7.25".

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When front springs are flat, contact is still made with the frame. It is likely due to the taller frame. I'm thinking of a minor fabrication to raise the lower frame lip up just where it makes contact. I don't really want to make the pinion angle any worse than it already is by lowering the rear spring eye or hanger even more.

Any suggestions?
 
sweetk30 said:
why ? he has 56" and all the way forward now. look at pics. :p:
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Yeah. I don't think they're going any more forward. The front bumper might not appreciate it too much. :D

I imagine the frame is going to have to be chopped on a little. I think if I brace it it before cutting into it, everything will be fine.
 
Been working on a bunch of little stuff lately.

Sanded and painted the new old grill and applied POR15 around the body mounts where water always seems to collect.

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Found some beat up craigslist Fox shocks. The guy busted two of the rods at the eye, but it's hard to argue with $150 for four. I was thinking about installing one moderately valved 2.0 remote reservoir and one custom adjustable 2.0 air shock per corner to adjust ride height when loaded, keep the suspension tight when I want to compensate for the lack of a sway bar, handle jumps if "needed," and loosen up when crawling. If a remote reservoir of oil was added, a floating piston inside the main body, and an easy way to adjust oil level was determined (which is my secret.) I don't think cost will be too much of an issue. I'll just wait to find somewhat inexpensive used air shocks for sale and rebuild them.

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The inner-c is ready for some axles and a knuckle.

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The 35 spline 4340 axles with a bit of paint.

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Some polyurethane gas tanks to handle the home brew without issues all mounted up.

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